Super Alloy 1 Soldering Rod Kit (Starter Kit 3/32" diameter)

Acts sort of like solder but with more heat. Used on an antique lamp that had a broken arm at the screw in base. The Flux really cleans the metal. After heating until the Flux turns color, the rod is added just like soldering only hotter temp and it flows like solder until the metal cools. This is a great product for repairs of stuff made of pot metal.

This product is ideal for horizontal welds where you can pool up the solder. It will work on vertical welds with a little practice. I was welding zinc plated nuts on 5/16 dia. aluminum rod and it seemed like it wouldnt take the bond. Then I figured out that just because the joint turns brown doesnt mean you have burnt up the joint. The video shows the flux turn brown then the solder added and take the heat away. Once the flux dries up from heat the joint goes dormant. You have to wake it back up with more flux. Use a small flux brush that WILL get burned up but who cares. The flux makes it flow and bond like a catalyst. Just because the joint looks dirty doesnt mean you wont get adhesion. You might go through your flux faster than expected but would you rather have success or extra flux? Just dont file or grind it too thin or you will be soldering a second time. Its strong as hell in a thick application. Save all of your splash drops of solder. They can be reused with success also. It can be reformed by heating it up forming it and letting cool to make it a shape easier to apply with. This stuff is great trust me!

I normally dont review stuff I buy, but this I felt the need to put my 2 cents in. I was restoring a vintage fan that had been dropped by someone and broke off a piece of the motor housing where the oscillation shaft whet through. A whloe chunk was missing as well, maybe 3/8" sized triangle piece. I watched all the videos and just went at it, and yeah its not pretty when doing it. I also used a small picket torch instead of a larger soft flame as recommended. But it did just what it was supposed to. Key with this stuff is the flux. Just use everything the way it says to and it works suprisingly well. I wasnt too concerned about cometics and getting this perfect, as there were strippped gears in the oscillator (it will ever oscillate again). But If I spent a little more time with it and went over it again to add just a little more material you could never tell there was anything broken there. This was a 15 minute repair in total, with filing and sanding. Down right impressive for potmetal. This stuff was totally worth the $

Best thing I have found for pot metal repairs. BUT, read the instructions and watch some how-to videos before you attempt your own repair. There are some very helpful "tricks" folks have figured out to help make things easier. The only complaint I have is, you can't buy rods without the bottle of flux. I used up most of the rods and have almost a full bottle of flux. If anyone knows of another soldering/brazing use for the flux, I'd love to hear it! Hate to just throw it away.

I had a pin hole from a rock on the radiator on my motorcycle. A new radiator is over 1000 dollars. This product worked as advertised on the first try. I'm so glad I found super alloy, it was easy to work with and I look forward to helping all of my friends who need aluminum repair in the future. Bottom line, this stuff is worth its weight in gold.

I have a belt buckle that had broke, it is made out of putter. Being a welder for 45 years I didn’t think it could be fixed until I seen this product advertised. It’s pricey but works.

I used the product for repair pot metal parts for a car. Didn't really come up to the standard I was expecting. I am no dummy when it comes to welding or soldering, not a pro either. I have been an engineer for many years and I could not get this product to perform according to the vids. The primary problem was when the pit was prepared as suggested in the video and the solder applied, cooled, washed and then sanded or filed back there was always a void or voids in the weld. No plater will accept that. However I used the solder to weld stainless tabs to a headlamp frame. That worked fine.

I have a 1941 Nash Model 4160 Ambassador. It has two front chrome grills and the mounting portion on both were broken off. It is made of a very soft metal that melts with normal welding that would also discolor the chrome. I found a set of these grills for $600. I have never used this product before. I have tried many other forms of bonding the brackets back on that did not hold. I watched the video and did just as the video directed. When I was finished I had not even used one inch of a rod and needed only a few drops of the flux. If I ever need to purchase this again, I will.