Red Oak Wood Veneer Sheet, Plain Sliced/Flat Cut, 24x96, A Grade, 10 mil Paperback

I absolutely love this company! I do a lot of wood projects- and this company has saved my house! Their veneer is easy to work with, strong, and absolutely beautiful! I’ve used paper back and their psa veneer - and I can’t complain about ANYTHING! A few Pieces that arrived damage bc shipping- customer service swiftly replaced the entire pieces- and even over nighted the replacements- despite it not being their fault it was damaged. I won’t be switching “my wood provider” for a LONG time.

Love the product! Using to reskin cabinets in kitchen. Used to be dark mahogany in color originally. Used in conjunction with real oak pieces to do molding and doors. It's not forgiving if you are not careful as the knife will follow the grain if you try to go too fast. However, it is easier to cut and make a mistake with this than a solid piece of oak. Saves time by allowing you the freedom of making small adjustments with a knife or sanding block rather than cutting a whole new piece. Cut and trim carefully prior to application of cement or you will have caused yourself a lot more work. The contact cement doesn't come off once it is set and will tear up everything if you get the veneer positioned wrong and try to adjust it.

Easy to work with and fine quality. I will use it again.

Had a hollow oak door that someone had punched a hole in. Usually I just buy a new oak slab door, but this time thought I'd try something different.Ordered 2 rolls of this veneer because the door was wider than 2 feet.Fixed the patch. Covered the door with Titebond 3 glue. Carefully put the veneer on. The second roll fit snug up to the first one and rolled it all tight. Covered the job with pieces of weighted plywood, etc. Next morning removed the plywood coverings and . . . many spots of veneer had bubbled up. Darn. Got a steam iron and carefully ironed them down. Beautiful. Sanded the edges. Then used a stain/poly on the door. Looks beautiful!The veneer cuts easily with a box knife. Make sure your patch is very dry before applying veneer on door. It's possible that contact cement might work better than the glue. I just don't like the smell of the contact cement.Fixing a door this way may not be less expensive . . . because an oak slab door costs me about $60. But it's a quieter way of solving a problem, without needing a router, drill, planer, etc.

Note: peel and stick RUB RUB RUB (sand)Very forgiving veneer.Supplies: Pencil, scissors, box opener, tape measure, wood, glue, contact cement, drop cloth, stain brush, acetone, microfiber cloths, sponge block sander, iron, pre-stain, clear. Replacing two cabinet end caps in place. Unrolled lay flat for 2 days. Measure 100 x’s. Easy to cut with box opener and medium scissors. Ordered twice didn’t measure correctly on first use. Veneer glued first attempt with loctite express wood glue and gorilla glue. Spread the loctite on the cabinet with a brush and to back of veneer. While letting that sit I spread gorilla glue heavy duty contact glue around outer edges of cabinet and zig zag through center with metal scraper. Experienced minimal bubbling. Used block sander and a piece of wood with smooth edge to rub and press every few hour over a few days. Used pre-stain followed by oil based polyurethane clear coat 2 times with sanding between coats.Follow up: someone wrote a review saying rub rub rub. I concur, sand, sand, sand and use an iron.Week 2: Only one small stubborn bubble one left.Second sideSupplies: Pencil, scissors, box opener, tape measure, wood, glue, contact cement, drop cloth, stain brush, acetone, microfiber cloths, sponge block sander and an IRON Searched and could not locate loctite express wood glue. This time I used Titebond cold press veneer glue instead of loctite express wood glue. Titebond is extremely runny (aided in sliding or shifting veneer when necessary). However on day 1, I have more bubbles than experience on first attempt. Used iron on hottest setting NO STEAM after 2 hours no bubbling. Will update in 2 weeks, Stain process is the same.1 month very satisfied. Iron was magic touch!

First time use went well. Watch how-to videos. Use laminate roller. Use multiple dowels to position sheet. Use good quality contact cement. You can do this if you're patient and careful.

Couldn't use it. Didn't look good on wall.

we stained it and stuck it down with DAP with ease. we used it successfully for three projects so far. we found a desk for free online and rehabbed it completely. Caveats: you need to weigh the veneer down a day in advance to uncurl it before cutting. When you cut, follow the entire length across because notching out will cause rips to propagate from the corner.