---
product_id: 194528456
title: "EMBRACO Refrigeration Compressor FFI10HBX1 R-134A 1/3 HP"
brand: "embraco"
price: "3447 Lei"
currency: RON
in_stock: true
reviews_count: 8
category: "Embraco"
url: https://www.desertcart.ro/products/194528456-embraco-refrigeration-compressor-ffi10hbx1-r-134a-1-3-hp
store_origin: RO
region: Romania
---

# EMBRACO Refrigeration Compressor FFI10HBX1 R-134A 1/3 HP

**Brand:** embraco
**Price:** 3447 Lei
**Availability:** ✅ In Stock

## Quick Answers

- **What is this?** EMBRACO Refrigeration Compressor FFI10HBX1 R-134A 1/3 HP by embraco
- **How much does it cost?** 3447 Lei with free shipping
- **Is it available?** Yes, in stock and ready to ship
- **Where can I buy it?** [www.desertcart.ro](https://www.desertcart.ro/products/194528456-embraco-refrigeration-compressor-ffi10hbx1-r-134a-1-3-hp)

## Best For

- embraco enthusiasts

## Why This Product

- Trusted embraco brand quality
- Free international shipping included
- Worldwide delivery with tracking
- 15-day hassle-free returns

## Description

This EMBRACO refrigeration compressor is a direct replacement compressor for many Whirlpool, GE, and Electrolux appliances. Suitable for use in most food service equipment, bottle coolers, and ice machines. Also for use in other refrigeration equipment applications. Compressor includes electrical and mounting accessories to ease installation. Item: Refrigeration Compressor BtuH: 4400 Voltage: 115 Phase: 1 Line Connection Suction I.D.: 5/16" Line Connection Discharge I.D.: 1/4" Refrigerant Type: R-134a Nominal HP: 1/3 Hz: 60 Amps: 35 Base Mount Length: 4" Base Mount Width: 6-1/2" Length: 8" Width: 6-13/16" Height: 8" Potential Relay: 513506009 Start Cap. MFD/Volts: 270 to 324/180 Type of Compressor Oil: POE Application: Vending Machine, Light Commercial Refrigeration Manufacturers Warranty Length: 1 yr. Standards: ASHRAE Includes: Electricals and Mounting Accessories

Review: Great compressor - Used on an All Freezer (Electrolux) - First off I'm a 30 plus year appliance technician in Hot Springs Arkansas. I am HVAC schooled and licensed. Also, I have my EPA license for handling all freons. These are the minimum requirements for professionally installing these compressors. This compressor I am personally using as a replacement for an undersized compressor installed at the factory. The product is an all freezer all refrigerator wall set. The all freezer which is Electrolux around 19 cubic foot is the one that I'm replacing. These are extremely expensive and Electrolux which is also Frigidaire makes them slightly different each year so replacing it with an exact same size and look is impossible. Here's where I save the day. I inform the customer that I will need to take the unit to the shop and have it for a minimum of 3 days. I've done over a thousand compressor replacements in the past successfully. The original compressor was a quarter horsepower and this one is a third of a horsepower. All the small details line up closely enough that I can upgrade to a slightly more powerful compressor and get a much better result. The first step is crucial you must evacuate vacuum all of the freon from the dead system. All Freon must be canistered in the labeled by a EPA license technician for the government. There's a $13,000 fine if anyone is caught venting Freon into our atmosphere. Basically the way the law reads is the government wants to know where the freon went that you took out of the old system. So it must be canistered and labeled with the unit and customer information. This way if a government employee from the EPA comes and visits my shop. That's the proper thing they want to see on each repair like this. So all that aside I have removed all the freon from the previous system. It's tagged, labeled and canistered. Next in the process Is to claim the system completely out. The compressor died and your number eight for a reason. Now there's only a few reasons why these die early if they're designed correctly. Somebody may have laid it down at one point which is a major red flag. (never do this) Never lay anything down that has a refrigeration system. That compressor is half full of oil and when it is turned more than 45°, that oil will leave the compressor and run up the condenser lines as well as the low pressure line. Some stores will tell this same old lie. Just after you get it there stand it back up for several hours and it'll be fine. Let me tell you something as an expert in refrigeration that is the biggest lie you will ever hear in your life. Refrigeration systems are not designed to where everything free Falls easily back into the compressor. It simply not like that. The oil that comes out and goes up the lines becomes trapped. Especially in that tiny condenser line. If you lay one down and you get it to the house and plug it in. First if it works you're going to hear gurgling and a rumbling sound throughout the system for the rest of its life until it dies a very early death. I clean my systems out with nitrogen which is a very expensive process but the only reliable way to clean the lines out and it removes all the old trapped oil and nasty debris. Cut off the old filter drier. Anytime you access the sealed system you must replace that filter drier. That's reason number two why it probably failed early. They can become clogged and make the compressor work harder until it burns up. Step 3 is finally cutting the old lines and removing the old compressor. Cut your lines after putting your new compressor up next to it and figuring how you're going to run these lines to your new one. If you're lucky they'll line up exactly the same if you're not lucky you might have to Route things slightly. Having a good copper tubing Bender is always a plus. But you can slightly Bend copper as long as you do not cause a pinch anywhere. If you cause a pinch you'll have to cut that part out and try again. Once everything is lined up with your new one in a couple of copper couplings you'll need to clean where you're going to weld these first. I have a wire brush attachment for my drill that I use that does it very quickly. The condenser line being black you want that thing looking silver when you're finished cleaning it. If you don't and there's any black left on that condenser line you're going to get a bad weld. I clean it several inches up past where my coupling is going to be just to be safe. Always use C flux and take your clean connections and copper couplings and put them together. Then put your flux on the connections. You must be good with a torch to do this correctly. Take your torch and go up and down a couple inches before the coupling on each side slowly up and down working the heat evenly. Once you see the flux starting to Bubble then you will be able to touch the connections with your lead free solder. One tip is to use the torch Flame to direct the flow of the solder. If I'm soldering the left side of the coupling I will take my heat slowly to the right and the solder will basically go in and follow the Heat. If you're new to this good luck it takes a lot of practice to get efficient. The thing is after you're done and you're testing this if you hear that dreaded whistling or air flow seeping out noise. You'll have to cut it all out go through the cleaning process again and do it again. That's why you must be proficient with the torch really before you even start something like this. In my case 30 years ago I had to do three or four cut out and retries so don't feel bad if you do. It'll fill that much better when you're done. Once your welding is done give it 5 to 10 minutes to completely cool off. Attach your starter. Oh yeah hopefully you have attached a fill valve. Usually on the left side. When I weld my fill valve on you have to make sure you have removed the needle. If you will that fill valve with a needle on it it will Warp it. So you need the little four-way needle remover and remove that needle before you weld on the fill valve. Lastly install that fill valve needle not over tighten. Give it just a little bit of R134 in vapor form to get a little pressure I usually get it to at least 20 lb. Now while looking at the gauge you can plug in the unit you will see the pressure drop immediately once the refrigerator comes on that's what you want to see. Let it run for a few seconds if you don't hear any thing blasting out of your welds then slowly fill that thing up to the appropriate amount. There is a sweet spot of refrigerant for every system. You have put too much if you hear that compressor start cutting out. The bad part is this number comes with years and years of doing this. So I'm not going to blurt a number out there. Do this take the cover off the evaporator and just give it a few pounds and stop go look at the evaporator. That evaporator should look Frosty head to toe within 10 minutes when you have it perfect. Hope this helps.... Chuck's Appliance Repair Hot Springs Arkansas
Review: The best - 100% quality, operation and performance

## Technical Specifications

| Specification | Value |
|---------------|-------|
| ASIN | B0859NCNVV |
| Additional Features | Portable |
| Brand | Embraco |
| Brand Name | Embraco |
| Color | Black |
| Compatible Hose Diameter | 0.31 Inches |
| Customer Reviews | 4.2 out of 5 stars 78 Reviews |
| Included Components | Electrical and mounting accessories |
| Item Dimensions L x W x H | 8"L x 6.81"W x 8"H |
| Manufacturer | CAI - EMBRACO |
| Material Type | Cast Iron |
| Maximum Current | 35 Amps |
| Maximum Power | 0.33 Horsepower |
| Model Name | FFI10HBX1 |
| Model Number | FFI10HBX1 |
| Motor Horsepower | 0.33 horsepower |
| Noise | 54 Decibels |
| Noise Level | 54 Decibels |
| Power Source | Corded Electric |
| Recommended Uses For Product | Air Brushing, Drilling, Nailing, Spraying |
| Special Feature | Portable |
| Style | Portable |
| UPC | 707129287083 727079907633 |
| Voltage | 115 Volts |

## Product Details

- **Brand:** Embraco
- **Noise Level:** 54 Decibels
- **Power Source:** Corded Electric
- **Recommended Uses For Product:** Air Brushing, Drilling, Nailing, Spraying
- **Voltage:** 115 Volts

## Images

![EMBRACO Refrigeration Compressor FFI10HBX1 R-134A 1/3 HP - Image 1](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61eJBXCrOlL.jpg)

## Questions & Answers

**Q: Do these come with oil already?**
A: The ones I have ordered did. They were ready to go.

**Q: What refrigerant type**
A: The refrigerant in this compressor is "R-134a"

**Q: Does this come with the capacitor and relay? Is this the actual picture?**
A: Yes it does come with starting components

**Q: Can i install this on my ge french door refrigerator model pss26lgrb**
A: I sent it back because it was wrong and got screwed!! They never reimbursed fir it!!!

## Customer Reviews

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Great compressor - Used on an All Freezer (Electrolux)
*by C***N on September 27, 2025*

First off I'm a 30 plus year appliance technician in Hot Springs Arkansas. I am HVAC schooled and licensed. Also, I have my EPA license for handling all freons. These are the minimum requirements for professionally installing these compressors. This compressor I am personally using as a replacement for an undersized compressor installed at the factory. The product is an all freezer all refrigerator wall set. The all freezer which is Electrolux around 19 cubic foot is the one that I'm replacing. These are extremely expensive and Electrolux which is also Frigidaire makes them slightly different each year so replacing it with an exact same size and look is impossible. Here's where I save the day. I inform the customer that I will need to take the unit to the shop and have it for a minimum of 3 days. I've done over a thousand compressor replacements in the past successfully. The original compressor was a quarter horsepower and this one is a third of a horsepower. All the small details line up closely enough that I can upgrade to a slightly more powerful compressor and get a much better result. The first step is crucial you must evacuate vacuum all of the freon from the dead system. All Freon must be canistered in the labeled by a EPA license technician for the government. There's a $13,000 fine if anyone is caught venting Freon into our atmosphere. Basically the way the law reads is the government wants to know where the freon went that you took out of the old system. So it must be canistered and labeled with the unit and customer information. This way if a government employee from the EPA comes and visits my shop. That's the proper thing they want to see on each repair like this. So all that aside I have removed all the freon from the previous system. It's tagged, labeled and canistered. Next in the process Is to claim the system completely out. The compressor died and your number eight for a reason. Now there's only a few reasons why these die early if they're designed correctly. Somebody may have laid it down at one point which is a major red flag. (never do this) Never lay anything down that has a refrigeration system. That compressor is half full of oil and when it is turned more than 45°, that oil will leave the compressor and run up the condenser lines as well as the low pressure line. Some stores will tell this same old lie. Just after you get it there stand it back up for several hours and it'll be fine. Let me tell you something as an expert in refrigeration that is the biggest lie you will ever hear in your life. Refrigeration systems are not designed to where everything free Falls easily back into the compressor. It simply not like that. The oil that comes out and goes up the lines becomes trapped. Especially in that tiny condenser line. If you lay one down and you get it to the house and plug it in. First if it works you're going to hear gurgling and a rumbling sound throughout the system for the rest of its life until it dies a very early death. I clean my systems out with nitrogen which is a very expensive process but the only reliable way to clean the lines out and it removes all the old trapped oil and nasty debris. Cut off the old filter drier. Anytime you access the sealed system you must replace that filter drier. That's reason number two why it probably failed early. They can become clogged and make the compressor work harder until it burns up. Step 3 is finally cutting the old lines and removing the old compressor. Cut your lines after putting your new compressor up next to it and figuring how you're going to run these lines to your new one. If you're lucky they'll line up exactly the same if you're not lucky you might have to Route things slightly. Having a good copper tubing Bender is always a plus. But you can slightly Bend copper as long as you do not cause a pinch anywhere. If you cause a pinch you'll have to cut that part out and try again. Once everything is lined up with your new one in a couple of copper couplings you'll need to clean where you're going to weld these first. I have a wire brush attachment for my drill that I use that does it very quickly. The condenser line being black you want that thing looking silver when you're finished cleaning it. If you don't and there's any black left on that condenser line you're going to get a bad weld. I clean it several inches up past where my coupling is going to be just to be safe. Always use C flux and take your clean connections and copper couplings and put them together. Then put your flux on the connections. You must be good with a torch to do this correctly. Take your torch and go up and down a couple inches before the coupling on each side slowly up and down working the heat evenly. Once you see the flux starting to Bubble then you will be able to touch the connections with your lead free solder. One tip is to use the torch Flame to direct the flow of the solder. If I'm soldering the left side of the coupling I will take my heat slowly to the right and the solder will basically go in and follow the Heat. If you're new to this good luck it takes a lot of practice to get efficient. The thing is after you're done and you're testing this if you hear that dreaded whistling or air flow seeping out noise. You'll have to cut it all out go through the cleaning process again and do it again. That's why you must be proficient with the torch really before you even start something like this. In my case 30 years ago I had to do three or four cut out and retries so don't feel bad if you do. It'll fill that much better when you're done. Once your welding is done give it 5 to 10 minutes to completely cool off. Attach your starter. Oh yeah hopefully you have attached a fill valve. Usually on the left side. When I weld my fill valve on you have to make sure you have removed the needle. If you will that fill valve with a needle on it it will Warp it. So you need the little four-way needle remover and remove that needle before you weld on the fill valve. Lastly install that fill valve needle not over tighten. Give it just a little bit of R134 in vapor form to get a little pressure I usually get it to at least 20 lb. Now while looking at the gauge you can plug in the unit you will see the pressure drop immediately once the refrigerator comes on that's what you want to see. Let it run for a few seconds if you don't hear any thing blasting out of your welds then slowly fill that thing up to the appropriate amount. There is a sweet spot of refrigerant for every system. You have put too much if you hear that compressor start cutting out. The bad part is this number comes with years and years of doing this. So I'm not going to blurt a number out there. Do this take the cover off the evaporator and just give it a few pounds and stop go look at the evaporator. That evaporator should look Frosty head to toe within 10 minutes when you have it perfect. Hope this helps.... Chuck's Appliance Repair Hot Springs Arkansas

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ The best
*by A***Z on September 29, 2025*

100% quality, operation and performance

### ⭐ Not satisfied
*by T***B on December 19, 2024*

When I first opened the box and noticed the compressor itself was dented up and looked very used, I could have over looked that issue. But upon further investigation,I realize that Embraco shipped me a heavy metal compressor with fragile plastic components literally thrown open in a loose box with no protection. Not a bag, no plastic, nothing protecting the plastic components at all. Obviously the parts arrived broken into serval pieces as pictured. I will be sending my compressor back. I hope Embraco uses common sense when packaging their products going forward.

## Frequently Bought Together

- EMBRACO Refrigeration Compressor FFI10HBX1 R-134A 1/3 HP
- Supco D111 Copper Drier 1.5 x 2.5 x 3.5 Inch
- AUTOKAY 10PCS Stem HVAC AC Schrader System Vacuum 1/4" SAE *1/4" OD *2.75" AC Refrigeration Kit

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*Product available on Desertcart Romania*
*Store origin: RO*
*Last updated: 2026-02-17*