Gigabit Micro USB PoE Splitter 5V 2.4A, IEEE 802.3af Standard 10/100/1000Mbps for Raspberry Pi 4, Google WiFi, Tablets, Dropcam Power Over Ethernet USB Splitter Adapter (USB0502G Black)

I got this with the desire to use it on a Dell WYSE 3040 micro PC. The tip doesn't fit, but an Adafruit adapter from this 2.1mm to 1.7mm jack got it hooked up to power. It works exactly as you'd think. Power and data are delivered from a PoE enabled switch to the adapter, and from there split into their respective ports. I'm very happy with it and am going to buy more of these in the future for more WYSE 3040s

Works perfectly for my situation. I am using a bunch of these, along with some 5.5/2.1 to 4.0/1.7 adapters to provide 12V DC to a stable of Dell Wyse 3040 thin client machines running Arch Linux that provide services in my home. In a headless setup, the Wyse 3040 consumes about 2W at idle and <4W under load, so easily powered from a quality PoE switch. These are a bit expensive compared to what you might find on Aliexpress, but believe in my experience that they are NOT up to the same quality standard as these. Buy once, cry once.

Worked great for my application. Must have.

The media could not be loaded. I've used lower power PoE splitters (12v, 1A) without anything connected to the 12v plug and the splitter will show on the switch as a very low power draw - about 0.5 watts. This splitter does not. Evidently it uses the down stream device to draw power, cause the switch to handshake, which then turns on PoE to the port. Well, one of my devices (Netgear R7000 router) doesn't draw enough power before startup to load the splitter and get the switch to turn on PoE to the port. I was able to trick it on by placing a 330ohm resistor across the 12v power lines. Once the PoE on the port is on, it will stay on just fine but if there is a power outage or disruption the switch won't restart the PoE on the port without once again tricking it with a resistor. I plan to make an inline adaptor that will keep the resistor as part of the power supply circuit so that the system will restart properly after a power failure. This splitter is just about the only device I was able to find that makes 12v 2A. Once the switch is tricked the device works great. Customer support has been receptive and is working with me to learn how they might be able to fix or improve their device. I'll update if we get anywhere.UPDATE:Customer service basically told me everything is working as it should and by design. They explained that I would need to increase the load but provided no device or info for doing so.Ultimately, I discovered that a 1k ohm, 1/2 watt resistor was sufficient to start the PoE. I then took it a step further by soldering the resistor inline with my power plugs to make a "load dongle" which you can see in the picture. I heat shrinked the whole thing. It's an indoor application so weather and water resistance is not an issue. Now if the power goes out everything restarts on its own as it should.In my ideal world the manufacturer would have designed the unit with a switch to turn on/off a load resistor. Second to that they would provide a manufactured load dongle with each unit. A very distant third best option would be to simply provide instructions for making a load dongle instead of me having to figure it out as I go.In conclusion, it is nice being able to mount or place the router anywhere in the house regardless of the availability of electrical outlets. Its a lot less clutter not needing the wall wart power supply. I was able to place mine high on a staircase wall.This allows the signal to propagate very well but also hides the router. I'm getting gigabit ethernet throughput and powering non-PoE router with a PoE switch.

This PoE splitter worked perfectly to create an inexpensive in-wall solution to power an Echo Hub with an existing ethernet cable while still allowing data to pass through to an existing wall port. All in, the total cost was less than $20. The USB-C version of this adapter won't power the Echo Hub since it only puts out 5 volts. The Echo Hub also requires 9 volts with Power Distribution (PD) and Programmable Power Supply (PPS) support. This 12-volt version of the splitter supplies plenty of wattage (24 watts) but doesn't have a USB-C connector with PD and PPS support, so I paired it up with an AITRIP PD65W Fast Charging Type-C USB Module. I couldn't be more pleased with the combination. Both run cool at the 12.5 watts needed for the Echo Hub. This combination is significantly less expensive than buying a PoE to PD3.0/PPS converter like Amazon would have us do for a clean in-wall installation and works great until someone releases a reasonably priced all-in-one adapter. Just be sure you have plenty of space in the box or wall cavity.

Got this as an experiment for my eufy home base 3 to declutter and can confirm that this device makes it POE.I live rural now so my only ISP is Starlink. I have Starlink plugged into a POE switch that powers my Deci x50 mesh network on my house and now this as well. Love it.I was finally able to declutter and freed up another power port on my UPS power system for power outages.

(update Don't trust these things. I gave them another chance and got burned again. It just can't handle 1Gb) I loved this little thing ... for a while. Until I realized that it caused some kind of problem and dropped my 1G connection down to 100Mb. I also had strange disconnects which I can only attribute to this thing having issues. I had the device on the same cable and plugged in with a long extension cord before so I know it's not the device BUT this thing after about 24hrs it starts to have issues. Maybe I have a defective unit and maybe it's something else, but this one device seems to be the only issue in the line. I'll have to look around and see if I can find a different device unfortunately as this one was absolutely PERFECT since it has the barrel connect and ethernet cable all in one. Your mileage may vary but be sure to do a burn in test over before the return window expires.

I wasn't sure about this product because some of the reviews were poor. I was looking for exactly this (well, either the 2A or the 2.5A version), so I went for it anyway. I've just finished installing it into my ONT cabinet, where I removed the old power cable, and the clumsy power supply it came with. Now my fiber Internet is powered from the UPS in my switch closet, and it's working great at the full advertised speeds (500mbps). My ONT only needs 0.5A (as measured with my clamp-on DC Ammeter), so there should be plenty of margin and this thing should run cool.