Wood Repair Kit

Our 100+ year old house had some issues, and now that we're working on our first baby's room, it was time to address some of them. Namely, the door that was held to the frame with NAILS and 2 out of 3 screw holes were stripped completely, and a windowsill with severe water damage. We took the hinges off the frame, doused all exposed wood with the hardener, and about 48 hours later stuffing as much epoxy as we possibly could into the destroyed frame. Let me just pause to say how impressive the wood hardener is; the wood we were working with went from giving way with a push of our fingers, to completely solid in 24 hours. One tip for mixing and placing epoxy - use two putty scrapers so you can scrape from one to the other. Filling the door frame was pretty easy, but the windowsill was another story. Due to years of neglect, the wood had rotted away from certain parts of the sill, and we used the epoxy to recreate the missing wood. This was a bit difficult because the epoxy is sooooo sticky, creating a smooth finish was impossible. I gave up at some point with the idea that sanding would help hide my failure. I was kind of right - sanding did help a little, but not as much as I was hoping. Luckily, a coat of white paint helped tremendously and eventually the blinds and curtains will help most of all when they cover my project most of the time. We also used this product to repair the door frame to our basement stairs. When I moved in, the door was being held on with one screw. I've spent years in this home pulling the door completely out of the doorway and placing it up against our China cabinet. We figured we really couldn't make it worse, so we started with this one and I'm proud to say the screws are now firmly attached to both the door and the frame. TLDR: is this product a permanent fix for our uses? Maybe. For now our doors feel very sturdy and it's a big improvement that didn't cost us a fortune and/or our relationship. I recommend this product but also recommend some patience and to prepare yourself for a little more effort than just harden, mix, and fill.

Saved me from having to replace a whole panel of fiberboard siding from water sprinkler damage. As an old man without a truck to haul siding and not enough strength to want to rip off and replace the whole board, this seemed like a good option. Used a styrene backer under the rotted edge and applied it per instructions. First the petrified, and then the next day the epoxy. There is a learning curve but for first time use I’m satisfied. To prevent droop, per the website, I used a support 1x2 wrapped in wax paper. Applied two layers, with two days I between. Sands well, and I then painted. No, it’s not a perfect job but you can’t tell the panel was damaged unless you know where to look. I was a little worried about the second layer as I didn’t do a perfect mixing ratio, as evident by color. But I gave it 3 days to cure and it’s hard and didn’t prevent sanding. Both products, the petrifier and the epoxy are very good. Next project is a window sill. There is no obnoxious smells and cleanup was easy with water for the petrifier brush and alcohol for the putty knife. The color is a light tan that is easy to hide with paint.

"A large hole developed (see pics) in my Sundeck." It was either replace the wood or fill the hole cleanly. I first applied 2 coats of the hardener and waited overnight. I ordered the 2 smaller cans but I needed more to complete the job. The Epoxy paste is very thick but folds and blends easily in a 2-part resin and hardener. I screwed in a chicken wire under the hole first as deck is elevated 2 stories. The epoxy applies with ease with a simple putty knife and its very workable. Its difficult to get smooth, using my finger gave it a more flush pre-finish than a putty knife could. To dry fully I waited 24 hours. Now sanding was difficult, I first tried my portable electric sander with 120 grit paper. The sander literally bounced and sanded very little of the epoxy. The statement epoxies can be harder than wood is true. I kept the 120 grit and hand sanded with a sanding block with somewhat better results. I waited another 24 hours. I sealed and stained the next day (see middle pic) final results. Not even a hammer can chip away this substance. But it loses a star for being a little too labor intensive for my likings. 4 Stars

The wood hardener is magic. I used it on several dry rotted areas and it restored the wood so it could be filled in without replacing it, saving me from having to replace an old window sill. The epoxy paste was too hard upon opening it and didn't mix well...the results are too sticky, and gloopy, and might have been old. I didn't hate it, but I will look for a better product. It does sand well but filling in holes or cracks doesn't work easily. It's like using the stickiest chewing gum. It ends up globbing on with peaks and bubbles and areas that you can't fill in at all because it sticks to the putty knife, or hands. Unfortunate. My feeling is PC Woody makes good products, and I can't picture a better hardener, but buy that one alone and try a different wood filler.

For any kind of wood repair, PC Woody is a great product. It mixes easily, has a long working time, it is easy to shape while it cures, and is rock hard when fully cured for sanding, drilling and cutting. It can fill any sized hole in one application. You have to keep an eye on large fill areas to push any sagging back in place while it cures. That is a small price to pay over multiple applications that require a day to cure. I have tried other wood epoxies that took forever to cure or was sticky when cured. I have used it to repair wood rot and termite damage. When I was done it didn't look like it had ever been touched. Be sure and use the wood hardener for a good base. After curing for a while, before it is fully set, I used acetone to smooth the surface and make sharp corners to cut down on sanding. The stuff sticks to everything. That is why it has 3 stars for application. I haven't used any product that doesn't. Rubber gloves and acetone makes application easy.

Have used this before so I am back. I use it on cellar widows and On parts of our wooden fence. The hardener makes wood fossilize. The two part paste is the ideal viscosity to reach into small cracks and enough viscosity to mold edges. It sands like bondo but is made for wood. I use 80 and larger as it is not rock hard. Using 200 grit does not fill up the paper so finishing is easier than bondo. You will not need to use any Micro filler paste with this product. The places I have used it I cannot remember where they were as they still look good after several years. Some of the wood was decorative exterior moulding that was treated three and four years ago.

I had four areas of my home trim that had gotten rotted due to roof leaks. Major hassle to replace the trim. I followed the instructions for the wood hardener and the export. Both worked like a charm. I used a 1” sponge brush to apply the hardener. I coat for three days straight. Same for the epoxy. Very hard to tell which areas were repaired..

This is pretty sticky stuff but dries to a very hard substance that does not crack or chip. Excellent strength and is likely to be long lasting. However, it is not easy to work with and clean up is difficult. When cured, the color is quite bright, does not absorb stain and stands out. I had to buy a colored solid stain to try to make it blend in with the existing stain. Due to its high price, I also used Elmer's wood filler for some areas on my deck. PC Woody was definitely the superior product and would go with this if I had to do it again.