Dorman 14151 Master Cylinder Bleeder Kit

The basic idea behind this kit is that the tubes channel the master cylinder's output (fluid/air mixture) into the MC's fluid reservoir when you push the MC's piston inward, and pull only fluid back into the MC when you release the piston.But the problem is that air remains in the tubes when the piston is fully depressed, and gets pulled back into the MC when the piston is released, so that the air is never eliminated. So, I pulled each tube, one at a time, out of the reservoir and put a finger (protected from the fluid by a disposable nitrile mechanic's glove) over the end of the tube just before releasing the piston, to prevent anything in the tube from being drawn back into the MC. Instead, fluid is drawn from the reservoir. Using this procedure, it didn't take many strokes to get the air out. Some do the same thing without the tubes, but the tubes make it easier to see if there's any air still coming out, as well as channeling the fluid back into the reservoir, thus avoiding other problems.When there is ANY possibility of coming into contact with brake fluid, wear nitrile mechanic's gloves and safety glasses. You do not want any of this stuff on your hands or in your eyes, and believe me, it will inevitably get on your hands and come flying at your eyes when you work on brakes. It tries to suck moisture out of whatever it contacts, and if that's your skin, it will dry it out for possibly weeks, and lotion, or at least the ones I tried, don't relieve the irritation. If it's your eye, I shudder to think what could happen.The first step when replacing a master cylinder should be to see if you can loosen its mounting nuts. I didn't do this until after I drained the MC and disconnected the brake lines, and found that I couldn't loosen the mounting nuts with what I had on hand. (I was able to loosen them after getting a deep 6-point socket and some PB Blaster, but it still wasn't easy.)So, I had to reconnect the brake lines to the old MC and bleed the system. Fortunately, I had a Motive power bleeder, and it worked like a charm. But it would have gone much better with a proper bleeding-wrench, because when using a pressure bleeder, it's best to avoid having to disconnect the bleeder-tube to reposition the wrench, because if the valve is oven even slightly, fluid will come out of the end of the valve when you disconnect the tube. So, you need the right wrench to avoid having to reposition it while the valve is partly open.A good tube-fitting would have also come in handy, because it's best to have a tight seal on the bleeder-valve, to prevent fluid from leaking out between the valve and the fitting, and to prevent air from leaking in and giving you the impression that there's air in the system when there isn't, and perhaps continuing to bleed the line until you drain all of the fluid out of the pressure-bleeder, and start pumping air into the system. I almost got to this point, and I had put about a quart into the pressure-bleeder.So, I ordered a bleeder-wrench and some bleeder-tube fittings from Amazon. I tried Wal-Mart, but the fittings would have been shipped from China, which is absurd.When done bleeding, Motive power bleeders are supposed to be rinsed out with denatured alcohol, which is also supposed to be pumped through the hose. Follow the manufacturer's instructions to the letter - don't go to some online forum and risk getting "advice" from some anonymous practical joker. The slightest amount of contamination of any kind in brake fluid might cause problems with the brake system. When I'm not using the power bleeder, I put a baggie over the end of the hose and seal it on with a rubber band. I also keep the pump in a gallon-sized zipper-baggie when it's not in the tank.

Good selction of fittings to choose from. Easy to use. Work as they should. No problems or issues. Good price.

Worked well for bench bleeding my new master cylinder for a 2001 ram 1500. Just be careful threading the fittings and it'll do the job leak-free! Has a very large assortment of fittings. I cleaned the fittings and hoses up after use with brake cleaner and stored the whole kit in a Ziploc bag. I'm ready for the next time I need to bleed a master cylinder. It's a decent little kit for the price.

Used to bench bleed the replacement master cylinder in my truck. Hose is very stiff and needs to be straightened otherwise it curls up and above the fluid level in the reservoir and draws air in.

I have a 2013 F 150 that needed a new master cylinder. Although labeled as universal, the kit doesn’t fit the front half of the master cylinder; the rear fitting takes the 9/16” - 18 included fitting; the front needs a 1/2” - 18 which is not included. I was able to make do with the M8 1.25 with several layers of Teflon tape in the front fitting. The clear tubing and clips allow me to watch for bubbles in the brake fluid as the fluid recirculated through the filler cap on the master cylinder reservoir. I was able to complete the job with the master cylinder in the car (instead of on the bench). The fittings held up well.I would recommend this product with the caveat check what size fittings you need before purchasing.

I bought this master cylinder bleed kit knowing that a broken brake line on my Nissan had leaked copious brake fluid. The fluid level in its master cylinder's reservoir completely emptied, allowing air to be pulled into the brake system. The kit had the correct adapters to fit my master cylinder and the adapters sealed properly. I was able to "bench bleed" the master cylinder on the car by myself while using this kit. It did what I bought it to do, which was exactly what it was advertised to do.

I could not believe this does not have a fitting for my 2014 Caravan, one of the most produced vehicles ever made! I ended up buying a piece of brake line and using that. I'd return, but it comes in a blister package so I can't really put it back together.

Good assortment of fittings and quick shipping