LutronLUT-MLC

Worked like a charm. If your experiencing a glowing (led) light when you turn light switch off then this product is what you need. Easy to install.

Worked great, eliminated the glow of the led lights in the off position of the Lutron casetta switch

Easy install, I used the unit on three dimers that when turned off, had the residual glow. Once installed all fixtures are working properly with no ghost ring. however I did have to replace on dimmer that I found was not LED compliant. Now all working and no more issues. its only been a few months so not sure of module life.NOTE: I installed these on Lutron Caseta switches and had no problems. I have now also installed on Lutron Homework's and RA2 systems at work and have had the same success.

Bought this to try to resolve an issue with our dimmer where the bulbs would not fully turn off. It worked for that purpose, however now when they turn on the rapidly pulse for a short time before turning on normally. Have tried several different bulbs and bulb brands to no avail, so it seems like just a flaw with this device + their dimmer (which is trash on its own). Additionally, with this, the lights are either on, or off, zero dimming ability, yes we are using it with dimmable bulbs.

Edit: If one doesn’t work, try two or more. I have one no-neutral dimmer (Inovelli, not Lutron) where I have to use three of these to get the bulb to turn completely off.Does what it’s supposed to do: provides leakage current for no neutral smart switches so that bulbs don’t flicker when the switch is “off”.It’s a capacitor with some extra packaging.

So, my setup was wired in 3 way. I originally ordered a Claro smart switch for this location, and a Claro accessory switch in location 2. The smart switch is wired on the side where the line comes in from the breaker. I spent an hour on the phone with level one support, which was just an offshore call center where they admitted they knew nothing about wiring. Lutron sent me an email survey right after the call and I said they couldn’t fix the problem. The next day, level 2 support out of Las Vegas, reached out to be to help. This was a 30 year electrician. He still couldn’t get the lights to work correctly. The Claro smart switch was working as advertised at location one; but, location 2 where the accessory switch was, the LEDs were not turning off all the way. I also tried slaving a mechanical switch back in with the accessory switch. That also didn’t work. I ordered a pico paddle switch for location 2 and gave up on the accessory switch idea. Rewire location one to a single pole switch, disabling location 2, and installing the pico paddle in wall in its place. Now location 2 is just a remote paddle in the wall, that’s battery powered. I got a wild hair, after about 2-3 weeks, and decided to order a Diva dimmer in place of the Claro smart switch and remove the pico paddle and try to install the Claro accessory switch again. Breaker back off. Rewire the pico end, install the accessory switch, and require the diva dimmer into the Claro smart switch in location one. Breaker back on. Nope, the LEDs only dimmed to 20% with the dimmer in the complete off position. Breaker back off. Swap the traveler wires on the accessory side. Breaker back on. Made it worse. Breaker off. Switched it back. Then I decided to try this LUT-MLC, after having it for 2 weeks, and not being convinced it was this easy to fix. I wired it in. I’m not sure what the guy is saying about wiring it to ground, it clearly says one end to line the the other end to neutral. This is on the load side. This needs to be wired inline from the switch to the load, which the load is the light. So, in location one, you have line coming in from the breaker. This makes the switch hot. Going to location 2 you have red and black travelers. These are wired normal into the switch. This LUT-MLC needs to be on the side from location 2 to going into the load, which is the light. You’re increasing the power from the switch to the light. One end to neutral, the other end to black which should be hot. Not the black traveler. It needs to be to the black load wire going from the switch to the light.

If you've found yourself here, then you probably don't need me to explain what this capacitor is for. I did however want to call out my specific use case in hopes that it will help someone else. In my case, I am using a Lutron Caseta PD-6WCL-WH in-wall dimmer switch. I use these dimmer switches all over my house (18 of them to be exact). I've been retrofitting my 6-in can lights with Commercial Electric LED down lights, which have been working great, however in my master bathroom I have a single light over the tub, and after installing the light, I found that the Caseta dimmer switch was no longer working. When I say no longer working, I mean, the switch was no longer doing anything. The indicator lights wouldn't light up, pressing the buttons didn't do anything, and the switch appeared as offline in my hub. I tested the light in another location and found that the light was functional, so off to do my research. That's when I came across this wonderful little capacitor. Couple clicks and a few days later and I had it installed in just a couple minutes. The extra load is allowing my dimmer switch to be powered and everything is working as it should.

We have some backlight LEDs behind our fireplace. They are plugged into a Lutron wall module. Problem was when the module is off, there is a tiny leakage current that was just enough to trigger the LEDs on, but not enough to keep them on, causing flickering. The Lutron module has 2 receptacles to plug into so I plugged this on the second plug opposite the lighting receptacle. Now I can control the backlight our fireplace wall without flicker when turned off.