Ender 3 Hotend All Metal Ceramic Heating Core Hotend Upgrade High Flow High Temperature Support 300℃High Temperature 3D Printer Rapido Hotend Kit Fits Ender3/ Pro/V2/Max CR10

Works exactly as described, a little difficult to install without knowing what to look for, but heats quicker, wires nicely. Only note is that you will need your own allen keys or you cant build it, they don't include the mid size one for most of the screws.

I bought 2 of them the first one last month or so. After the heater crapped out so I thought it was just a defective part so I bought another on the heater die on that one. It's too bad it worked great for about a month but I'm not going to buy crap that fails half way though a two day print

I purchased this item hesitantly after reading the reviews. This review is for those of you with either a Ender 3 Neo or Max Neo. I have a Max Neo and I was able to make this hotend work with very minor workarounds. First the issue with the thermistor wires breaking or coming out of the comnnector. When you recieve the item, before handling it repeatedly, take a good grade of silicone (automotive) and put a small blob on the end of the applicator as shown in the pic. Put the blob on the back side of the connector where the wires enter from the thermistor. Push it in EASY as to not push it to the other side of the connector. Make sure it surrounds and connects both wires and the connector plastic housing on the back side. Then STOP !! Let it sit for 24 hrs to cure. The wires are now supported by the silicone and wont come out of the connector easily !! See pic. Next, reviewers say nozzle is too high. What you need here is a nozzle from a Ankermake M5. Longer than a v6 and shorter than a volcano. I took the heater off the heatbreak (removed the 2 tiny screws), pulled it from the red radiator, unscrewed it 1 (one) turn and reassembled. This puts the longer nozzle further up in the heater. I did not have to move the Touch probe or modify the part cooling fan shroud. Thats how close it was !! All I had to do was adjust my z-offset from -2.65 to -2.85. Of course you have to splice and solder the heater and thermistor wires on original harness. I always use the original wires to keep from pulling covers. Hope this helps !! Update: Been printing non stop for 8 days including multiple all-nighters. No issue with filament sensor !!...Yet

Why did you pick this product vs others?: This hotend has been good to me, I just wish there was more documentation on it. Like for example, I only see 80W mentioned one place, and thats a photo in this listing, but running it at the standard 40W and I've had no issues. I have yet to run it to its limit of 300c due to me not installing the direct drive conversion kit I printed, but at ~265c I've had zero Issues. If you guys could get back to me on the above concern, I'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks!

Mechanically, this is a really good hot end compared to a stock lk4 (an ender 3 clone) hot end. The hot end is less prone to temp swings that cause false thermal runaway warnings. For petg, this is awesome, no more melting Bowden tubes. If you want to use flexible filaments, forget about it. The all metal throat of the heat break has a lot of friction, and doesn't allow flexibles to reach the heater block without oil (I tried this with a "direct" drive converted printer, and a Bowden setup neither work dry). The threads on top of the unit are m8x1.0 for some reason, and didn't allow me to use my normal compression fittings, nor my direct drive adapter. Get ready to make custom adapters if you are going to be using anything other than the flimsy Bowden "fittings" they give you in the box.

Much better hotend than I had in my homebrew setup. Took a bit to make up some adaptors to fit they way I wanted. But once that was done, everything else hooked up and worked great. The hotend heating is so much nicer on this unit that the E3d's I normally run. Still dialing it in but for sure no worse than what I had and just some things I like better so even if the print quality is the same as before I will take the pluses. Heat up time is just wow. I guess when your still running 7 year ago rigs and home built ones these new heating elements are insane.

Gets hot quickly! However this item doesnt dispelled the heat fast enough and heats the filament too soon causing extrusion issues. The thermistor wires break easily and I couldn't find replacements for the hot end.

I cannot keep my original retraction setting. If the filament is retracted too much, it will get stuck in the extruder and the print fails. I bought of of those extruders thinking it was an upgrade for my 2 printers. Both printers now fail their prints often due to filament stuck in the extruder. The extruder does not have a funnel shaped entrance for the filament. Would not recommend

I have used it once and it's broken... The thermistor connector was always disconnecting so I soldered it to my cable. Since it was disconnecting the nozzle clogged a lot and in the process of unclogging it, one of the heater wire broke, so it is useless now.