Powerbuilt Ball and U Joint Service Set, 23 Piece Tool Kit, Remove and Install Ball Joints, Receiving Tube, Adapters, Sockets - 648617

The Powerbuilt is very well constructed and is worth paying the price for Quality ,arrived on time ,all parts are separated into compartments and named for use, complimented by instruction manual attached to inside of the case.The old saying ,"what you pay for is what you get,"you are getting the Best,so buy something that will last and give you good service for years to come ,good Company to do business with.

Worked great, use with ball joint pressing tool set, the one that looks like a giant C-clamp and comes with adapter discs and cups. Did a 2000 Taurus. The actual pressing out and in was easy, the real work is removing the steering knuckle (hub carrier) from the car, which can't be avoided. Another reviewer did it without removal, but it still requires slipping the axle out of the hub, and the car has to be high enough to fit the press from below. This may mean a lift rather than jack stands.I chose to do the pressing out and in on the workbench while standing up and with full access. My back thanked me. You need to remove brake caliper and bracket (Loctite on bolts, rugged), tie rod stud, ball joint stud, sway bar links, strut-to-knuckle bolts, cv axle nut, and ABS sensor (at wire connector behind fender liner or pulling sensor itself. Did both ways, one sensor was stuck.) YouTube has some vids. One shows hitting the tie rod stud end to remove. That almost never works if it was properly tightened, and don't pickle fork the tie rod end if you want to re-use it. Pullers are needed. The 2 hammers trick is also forbidden as the steering knuckle is aluminum alloy and it will be ruined. A larger, similar style (2 arms with a center forcing screw) puller is needed on the ball joint stud.Ford repair manual shows some bolts as single use/ "always replace". You'll need to order those ahead of time. The local dealership doesn't carry them in stock, which means their techs aren't replacing them. Hmmm ... . Same with Hondas. If re-using, clean off the old Loctite before applying the new. Look up specs and use a torque wrench. Allow a lot of time for this job. This car was original everything and it was hand-to-hand combat at almost every step. Also used Motorcraft MCSOE76 ball joints (Amazon), with better boot material. The originals cracked easily and had no grease fittings, which is why you're reading this. Also happens on Rangers, but they're easier. Any job can be done, but 1st timers will get stuck.Big hint: support the car with stands under the body rails, not the engine/transmission subframe ( the big rectangle under the front). I used the subframe and that compressed the subframe-to-body mounts. That raised the control arm just enough to make ball joint stud removal/ installation at the tapered hole barely possible, even with the arm pried down to its limit. I always get smarter afterwards, but it's better to not wait that long.

This worked perfectly. Don't bother with the cheap ones. This one is a bit pricier then others but we'll worth it. The whole kit weighs 60 pounds so it's definitely durable and not cheaply made. It's a bulky kit but removal and install is a snap. Must buy for an DIYer or Automotive technician.

I used this kit to remove my upper ball joint on my 2007 GMC Sierra 2500 Duramax. I used a bit of heat to get it to break free. The tool bends for sure and losing it's clamping force when it starts to happen. I was using a 3' breaker bar on a 3/4 drive. I soaked the ball joints with penetrating fluid prior too. My parts weren't even rusty. The lower one didn't budge when I tried the first time, so I found on a concrete driveway, with a jack under the lower arm, it was easier to use a super heavy ball peen hammer to hammer it out. 25 years of swinging a hammer helped. I bought an AC delco lower ball joint and that sucker didn't want to go in, clamp just bent. So once I got a big load on the clamp I would hammer the bottom of the clamp and it would be enough to force that ball joint in. I bought a KR6696 Kryptonite upper and that went in super smooth, highly recommend that part, great quality. I might buy a Snap On clamp to do my other side. There is a lot of different sizes and combinations I was able to get the perfect sizes I needed. The clamp barely opened big enough to fit (could have cut ball joint to get more room). For the price it did the job and obviously a 2500 is on the bigger side of the spectrum.

Used on my 2007 Honda element removal was easy as 123 with this and installation wasn’t that much harder had to use a cup from my ball joint tool set to install that was it though.

Great quality I work for Ford has a mechanic and I’ve used it numerous times and has never failed me

This kit made it easy to install the ball joints on my ‘01Ford Taurus. I also bought the 10 piece ball joint tool kit from the same company in order to do the job. Very pleased with the heavy duty quality of these tools.Totally worth the extra money.

This product is good quality and sturdy. I love using this kit it's definitely worth the money unless you wanna spend big money on snap on or mac tools