Rohrer & Klingner50 ml Bottle Fountain Pen Ink, Iron Gall Nut-Ink, Salix

I have a lot of inks and a lot of pens but this quickly became my everyday favorite. I have a pen with a medium stub italic nib (a nib from an heirloom pen that I salvaged after it broke) and this ink works fantastic for that pen. The reason I like it so much is that of all the inks I own (21 different inks at the moment) this is the ONE ink I can use on cheap paper. It is the only ink that doesn't bleed through and there is never any feathering on any paper so I can use it on cheap legal pads, mini legal pads, various note pads, standard spiral bound/ring filler paper, Moleskine notebooks, TOPS Business Notebooks (neither the Moleskine nor TOPS products are at all "fountain pen friendly"), any paper at all. It behaves as well on cheap paper as it does on Rhodia or Clairfontaine.(NOTE!!!! When I say "use this ink on cheap paper", remember that if your pen writes excessively wet any ink will soak through any paper. This is why a lot of people prefer fine nibs, they do not lay down as much ink and tend not to feather and bleed through nearly so much as a medium or broad nib. I LIKE medium, italic, flex and stub nibs -- with a properly functioning pen and this ink I can write on cheap paper without it bleeding through. YMMV)It goes down nicely wet but dries very quickly. I never need to blot this ink no matter what paper I'm putting it on. By the time I could reach for and bring a blotter to bear on the page the ink is dry anyway. Though the drying time is in the single digits second-wise the ink doesn't seem to dry out in the nib as long as I remember to cap the pen when I stop writing. Years ago I trained myself to uncap when I pick up a pen and cap it right before I put it down, having forgotten to do that or after setting an uncapped pen down, getting distracted and then having to clean a pen out so it'll write again ...The color is nice, it goes down a deep and vivid blue but being iron gall ink it dries and oxidizes to a shade of blue-gray. The line characteristic when dried is what pen enthusiasts call "very dusty". With the right nib I get very nice shading and line variation but it's not glaringly obvious. The shade is perfect for formal writing - it's not going to give the wrong impression. It is a very tasteful shade when dried, It's not frivolous, flaky, fruity or flighty. It's great for just writing too so I don't save it for only formal purposes. From the right nib this ink most definitely says "I'm fountain pen ink and I was put here by a fountain pen!"This ink is as or more waterproof than any other ink I have owned. I use a couple of Noodler's Bullet-Proof inks that are as water-fast as this Salix ink is but those inks also penetrate paper like crazy (by design, they're supposed to do that) so I only use them for signatures and applications where their "bullet-proof" aspects are an asset.I have had no problems with this Salix ink staining pens or clogging them. I have seen no sign of corrosion on any pen this ink has been in. I am using this ink through both precious metal (gold) nibs that would be resistant to clogging and corrosion by nature anyway, really cheap steel nibs and everything in between -- but I have seen no evidence under high magnification that this ink is in any way damaging to my pens.A FEW WORDS ABOUT THE IRON GALL BUGABOO -- Iron gall is a very, very old style of ink, it's been around a long time. There are a lot of urban myths, legends and old wives tales that haunt iron gall ink. If you want to you can make your own iron gall ink from the insect galls in tree branches. This is where the "gall" in "iron gall" comes from btw. That traditional method is how ancient scribes made their iron gall ink. The method for doing that requires a strong alkali (EDIT: sorry, I should have said acid not alkali), which is where the "cautions" and "conventional wisdom" about nib and pen component rust comes from. Rohrer & Klingner's Salix and Scabiosa are modern formulations, they are no more and no less harmful to your pen than any other ink. (EDIT: see my discussion with "Jesse" below regarding corrosiveness vs. pH.) I have left these inks in pens that I didn't use and when I came back to those pens a full load in the converter had dried up. I flushed the pens properly and examined them with a jewelers loupe. There was no sign of rust, reaction, or any other kind of damage. The dried pigment was no harder to deal with than any other dried ink pigment. I do not advise allowing a full ink load to dry in a pen and that's abuse of the pen. For this ink to corrode a pen to the point of damage would probably take decades if at all. A year or few does not discernibly damage a modern pen in any way I can detect.The cost is very reasonable, it's cheaper than most inks I own. At around nine bucks and shipped free this is a very good price for a very good ink. The price fluctuates and I haven't been desperate for a bottle when the price was on the higher end of its range. Frankly, if it gets to where it costs the same on Amazon as it does at Gouletpens dot com, I'll buy it from the Goulets who are wonderful people.The only drawbacks to this ink that I have found to date are that it takes a while to get from Germany to my desk. I can live with that, when a bottle gets to about half empty I order another one. Also being iron gall ink it's in a deeply tinted bottle presumably to protect the ink from light. That does make it harder to see how much is left in the bottle but of course you can see the ink level when you fill a pen. These are by my lights very minor things that I mention just to be thorough.This ink cleans up very well too. I often manage to get ink where I don't want ink when I'm filling up a pen. On my fingers, on my desk, etc. This ink cleans up as well as any other ink I own and it doesn't stain the converter barrel in the pens that have been filled with it. I have had no more problem flushing this ink out of a pen to prepare the pen for a different ink than I have had with any other good quality ink. Even thought it's quite waterproof on paper it scrubs off skin with a little soap, water and a vigorous brush.This is my everyday, go-to, favorite ink for all-purpose use. I have and I use other inks, this didn't replace those inks by any means. What this ink does for me is to give me a very nice, tastefully mature looking ink that I can use anywhere on any paper at any time under any conditions and it does that at a very reasonable price. As far as inks go, that's a lot of checks in the "plus" column.

One of the coolest inks out there, these R&K iron galls are very well mannered and a great deal.Good shading, does down a very slate blue and darkens over the course of about 30 seconds to a real blue-black and over a day or two to a very dark blue black (never quite black like diamine registrar's)It's not a super high ferro-gallic iron gall, meaning that it won't eat your fountain pen seals or steel nib. Similarly, it's not quite as amazing as platinum classic inks or Diamine Registrar's on bad paper, it does bleed a bit (negligible feathering) So you give up a little performance for a little ease of use. Still, you should clean any pen inked with this regularly, once a month ideally, every other month at the most. And NEVER leave a pen to sit more than a week with iron gall ink unless it's spectacularly well sealed (platinum 3776 being one of the exceptions)Overall, this is a great ink to dip your toe into iron gall with. The fact that it changes color as you write is just so cool, and this stuff is super waterproof.Color is immensely professional and blue-black lovers will adore it. It's definitely more blue than diamine registrar's blue black, but still very much in the BB category.I've been using it in steel nibbed pens for a while now with zero issue. I'm not really going to try putting it into an EXPENSIVE steel nib like a visconti or pelikan, but I use it in my gold nib pens all the time, such as my lamy 2000, platinum 3776 and visconti homosapiens. You should also have no problem using it in a vintage pen that has an easily replaced ink sac. Maybe be careful using it in a rare vintage pen that's almost impossible to repair the seals on, but the iron gall in this might knock a year or two off of the twenty year lifespan of an ink sac, so who cares, really.

This is a nice ink, though I don't really have anything to compare it to.I found it a little light at first, but it seems to darken after a couple minutes on the page, and it will show up differently depending on your paper.Go look up iron-gall inks on wikipedia. Fascinating. The way they react with air makes them permanent on the page, and this type of ink is still required in several countries for official documents, registers, and signatures.It's also allegedly somewhat acidic, but I'm not sure how that affects my pen or the paper. I don't worry too much about it.my package was shipped from Germany.++UPDATE++I've had the ink three months, and grown to quite like it. The best feature is it becomes nearly waterproof very quickly. Compared with some Waterman Black I have, which comes right off the page with a wet finger, the Salix ink barely smudge a bit with a wet finger, and remains eminently legible.This ink is especially good in a wet, fine nib, like my  Pilot Metropolitan Collection Fountain Pen, Black Barrel, Classic Design, Fine Nib, Black Ink (91111) . This combination works great in my Moleskine notebook (notorious for poor fountain pen compatibility.) On the Moleskine paper, this combination of a fine nib and salix ink, there's no bleeding or feathering, and barely noticeable show-through. Perfect for journaling and quick notes you want to last.I've tried a number of inks, including Noodler's, Waterman, Pelikan, Pilot Iroshizuku, and Sailor, and by comparison I can say this Rohrer & Klingner Salix is well-behaved and a great value.

A ma connaissance, c'est la seule encre ferro-gallique de cette qualité, et surtout de ce rapport Qualité/Prix !Certes Montblanc et d'autres "prestigieuses" marques font de Ferro-Gallique (iron Gal) mais a quel prix !!!J'aime beaucoup ce bleu, qui fonce un peu en séchant. IL devient, paraît-il encore plus foncé en vieillissant.C'est la seule de mes encres qui ne bave pas si je passe un stabylo dessus, ou de l'encre Pelikan jaune fluo avec un Parallel Pen 3,8mm de PILOT.Résistance à l'eau vérifiée, vous pouvez l'utiliser sur vos enveloppes.Les encres Ferro-gallique étaient connus défavorablement par le passé (plus de 50 ans) pour "manger" le papier avec leur acidité. Cette Salix est bien plus inofensive.Cependant, il y a deux point à respecter : ne pas la mettre dans des stylos a plume acier car risque de corrosion (ou un stylo pas cher du tout) et favoriser les plumes or. Les Platinum plume or ou acier sont parfait, grâce à leur capuchon slip and steal qui empêche le dessèchement de la plume.Mes deux platinum sont chargés en salix. Un Century #3776 (plume or) et un Prefounte plume acier mais avec le slip and steal (vu le prix du stylo, si la plume rouille, pas grave)Bref si vous voulez que vos écrits résiste à l'eau, au temps qui passe et autres mauvais traitements inavouables, la Salix est LA candidate idéale.A NOTER : Elle résiste bien mieux à l'eau que les pigmentaires : Noodler Hearth of Darkness ou Platinum Carbon black ink

He comenzado a escribir con pluma y esta tinta me ha encantado. Tiene un tono azul que luego se vuelve bastante oscuro. Ideal para escribir, seca muy rápido y no causa estragos, simplemente asegurarse de dejarla fuera de luz solar y limpiar vuestra pluma cada 3 semanas.

La casa tedesca (di Lipsia) è nota già dalla fine dell'800 quale produttori di ottimi inchiostri. La gamma di colori non è amplissima (solo 18 colori mentre l'inglese Diamine e ha oltre 100!) ma si tratta di inchiostri di ottima qualità: trovo affascinanti il blu-verde del Verdigris (il mio inchiostro "quotidiano") e il verde-oro antico dell'Altgoldgrün.Ottima la fluidità e l'utilizzabilità con praticamente tutte le penne, di qualunque marca. Da segnalare che la Rohrer & Klingner è tra le poche case al mondo a mantenere in produzione inchiostro ferro-gallico (frutto di una antica ricetta tradizionale), nelle tonalità bluastra (Salix) e porpora scura (Scabiosa), due inchiostri decisamente interessanti e pressoché unici. Ottimo acquisto, consigliabilissimo agli appassionati di scrittura a mano che si preoccupano di evitare lo scempio ambientale delle 1.6 miliardi di penne a sfere all'anno che si buttano via nei soli Stati Uniti.

Salixは使い易いBlue-Blackのインク。万年筆の標準色だが、これのインクはとても綺麗な濃淡を示す。青、紺色系は、たくさんのメーカーからインクが発売されているが、その中でも書き味、文字の微妙な色合いの美しさ、そして、裏写りの少なさについては、今まで使ってきたインクの中でもトップレベルではないか。とても気に入ったので、仕事でメインに使っている146に入れることにした。

Eine sehr schöne, dunkelblaue Tinte, die Aufgrund der Eisengallustkomponente nicht nur dokumentenecht (wasserfest und lichtbeständig, säureresitent) sondern auch sehr brauchbar für dünne, respektive problematische Papiere hervorragend brauchbar ist.Im Detail:1) eine "moderne" Eisengallustinte. Das modern ist wohl die Tatsache, dass die Farbe sich nach dem Austrocknen kaum bis gar nicht ändert. Sprich sie schreibt dunkelblau und bleibt dunkelblau. (Altmodische Eisengallustinten schreiben Blau und werden nach dem Austrocknen dunkelgrau)2) wie alle guten Eisengallustinten schlägt die Tinte auch bei "tintenunfreundlichem" Papier kaum bis nicht durch! Damit ist die Salix auch bei sehr dünnem Papier (zB Kalendern) sehr gut verwendbar.3) Die Tinte verhält sich in der Füllfeder völlig problemlos! Das ist bei Eisengallustinten nicht selbstverständlich!!! Einfaches Ausspülen zwischen den Füllungen reichet. Es setzten sich weder auf der Feder noch im Tintenkanal irgendwelche Rückstände ab.Zusammengefasst: Vorbehaltlos empfehlenswert!