Rit DyeMore Liquid Dye, Graphite, 7-Ounce

It worked fine for dying my cotton and polyester wool blend sweatshirt. If you follow the directions it seems to work very well. I think I could have died a couple of more things in the same water and had good results.I have not washed this item since I dyed it, but I noticed that the charcoal gray color is fading after a few months. At this rate I think it will take two or three years for it to wear out enough that I would want to re-dye it.

I purchased these as a set of 3 items. I received: 1 Pack of Rit DyeMore 7 Oz. Synthetic Liquid Fiber Dye - Graphite; Pack of 1 Rit Dye, 8 Fl Oz of #88150 All Purpose Liquid Dye - Black; Rit Dye RIT COLORSTAY, 8 fl oz, ClearI followed instruction for the pairs of pants that were made with synthetic fibers. I boiled on the stove as instructed. Mixing the DyeMore Graphite into the water and added clothes.When I was finished with the stove, I dumped the whole of the hot water into the washer and started to combine in my natural fiber pants and added the other bottle of Rit All Purpose.After the first rinse I filled the machine with hot water and added the Rit ColorStay. It really brightened and refreshed my black denim jeans.

So I’ve used black/charcoal dye before and I’ve always had this problem where it comes out looking a little blue no matter what I do. I decided to test this one on swatches of the fabric I intend to dye. The fabric is 100% polyester and this dye is specified for use on polyester fabric. The far right is the original color of the fabric, the far left is after dying for the full 30mins. I was disappointed that it came out with a blue tint to it, which I was trying to avoid, but decided to throw a small swatch into the dye just to try for a different amount of time. The middle swatch is closest to the color I was hoping for and that is after 1 minute in the dye. This is a good dye, and I’ve used this brand before and never have an issue with it bleeding after the first wash. The color always holds well so I’m not concerned for that but I recommend definitely testing your fabric before using to find the right color shade. I’m happy with the result since I managed to get the shade I wanted. If you’re looking for a pure black though, you’re probably better off just buying a lot of India ink.

I have been trying to re-color my fading 20 year old 100% Nylon Goretex jacket I love, sadly you can't buy this type jacket any longer with same quality and function.I tried the regular Rit dye at 180°- 190° it did not take at all. So I practiced on other nylon items ( I have tested many color/combos previously with USGI colors) and through watching and learning about other dyes I ended up on Rit Dyemore and the "just below boiling" recommended. I was worried the 200°+ would damage the garment. I have successfully dyed other items with nylon and cotton but this 100% nylon was different. The only thing I screwed up was the color mix to get an emerald green color. I was so caught up on getting it done since it was taking me longer than I had time for, from getting water to temp and the smell getting to my wife (first time I did this inside with dyemore due to weather) I poured in the whole bottle of graphite @#$%#. So this was Dyemore 50/Peacock Green and 50/Graphite. Pretty much a total waste of the green you can see the green a bit in the sun. We have not seen the sun for days so the picture is with artificial LED lighting.Heating up the 3 gallons of water took some time even on med high in a large water bath canner I bought specifically for this to set up on a turkey fryer base with propane tank outside. The problem is, I live in a very windy area and picking relatively calm days are few and far between with the open flame. I do set up wind blocks that help.A soon as I dropped it in the water after washing the jacket it started taking on a dark black color, so limiting the time in the mix would not have helped the darkness of the end product IMHO. So I went a full 30 min stirring constantly at no lower than 200°. I had an old oven thermometer I placed in the water and I let it get up to 210° so when I put in the cold jacket in it would not go below 200 and it worked great. Took out and washed 2X's and set out to air dry on porch. I think I could have pulled it out much sooner the leftover amount of dye for the other pieces proved this. I did put aluminum foil around the stove area to limit stain from the dye and cardboard on the tile/grout floor, glad I did.I would add, I like to use up all the dye so I did a USGI UCP pants, 85 rayon, 25 para- Aramid,10 nylon and a blouse/jacket 65 poly/35 cotton(put in first) and there was quite a bit of dye left to color them. I did not want to add the Goretex pants because I was afraid they would most likely not come out the same color. Since this worked I have to decide if I want to try and remove the dark color and try again or do the same to the pants. But I worry the 200° multiple times might degrade the material further. I applied water proofing for Goretex and they are shedding water great.Picture: left, original color of Gortex . 2nd left Gortex jacket with Dyemore. 3rd USGI pants Para-Aramid blend. 4th USGI UP blouse/jacket poly cotton blend after washing and drying

Used this as an experiment to dye old tactical gear mostly 500D and 1000D cordura, and inherently plastics and Velcro associated with that kind of gear. Water+tiny bit of dish soap or detergent and boil keep things moving don’t let anything settle or bunch up allow the dye to roam freely through the fabrics etc I let it boil for longer than instructions call for however they seems to take color in only a few minutes. Overkill, maybe. Did no harm. Even the plastic on the buckles tool color and not the kind you can nick off with your nail I mean on a molecular level. Very impressive. After I removed all my stuff fishing around for it in the pitch black water I let it sit as I did the post dye washing process ( tongs are much recommended for this entire project by the way ) I decided I would toss some more stuff in the hot dye some pouches different odd ball materials to see how the dye would take. Brought to boil again etc. it dyed just as good as the first batch. Really really effective fabric dye. Really affordable too. One thing was to make sure the fabric were thoroughly washed beforehand to removed dirt or soil that would circumvent dye penetrance and I did so with the rubbing the material against itself I a soapy solution. The results of my project came out a hundred times better than what I had expected. I used a hot place out doors they say it’s non toxic but dye vapor can’t be good for you in any context.I dyed coyote brown and FDE 500D and 1000D cordura materials to black and o couldn’t have wished for a better outcome. The fact that it even dyed the plastics on a molecular level as well just really put the icing on the cake.