Features: 1.12V 10A learning code receiver /switch with suicase cover + transmitter /remote control 2.You can turn on or turn off the receiver with transmitter(remote control) from any place within a reliable distance 3.The wireless signal can pass through walls, floors and doors 4.Receiver Sensitivity: -100dBm 5.Encoding Type: learning code 6.It uses fixed coding, stable and reliable 7.Operating Frequency: 315 MHz/433MHZ(here is in set work together .you don't have to care what frequency are they) 8.The output way is adjusted between Jog/inter-lock /self-lock Learning and remove method: 1. Press the learning code. the indicator flash, loosen your finger, press any button of the remote control, the indicator flash 2 times and off. it mean you learn it successfully. 2. It can learn more than 12 PCS 2262 or 1527 chip with the different code wireless remote control. 3. Remove/clean: press the learning button about 8 seconds, the indicator turn on to off, it means the information that you keep have been removed successfully. Package Included: 1 x transmitter (with battery and key ring) 1 x receiver (with the cover)
R**E
Remote has limited range
Works great on the test bench but in real-life usage this has a *very* limited range. I'm using this to switch four 12V DC LED ceiling lights (7W each, roughly 0.6A per circuit) and there's enough interference that it reduces the range of the remote - to about one foot. Under a no-load test the relays worked just fine; switches were reliable and responsive. Once I hooked it up, turning on a light would cause the circuit to occasionally lock up and fail to recognize any more commands. I discovered that as long as I move the remote to within a foot of the receiver, it works just fine. Not sure if it's the circuitry in the controller or the load causing the interference but either way a remote relay ought to have more resistance to EMI that this.Instructions were non-existent but this does work in "latch" mode (push once for on, push again for off). This ships in momentary contact mode - relay closes with the button, releases when you release the button. All you need to do is move the small jumper to the other pair of pins to switch between modes. I'd downrate this another star for the lack of instructions but it's better than a one-star product.
M**R
Great little project board
Great little project board, but don't expect it to be a consumer-friendly, plug-n-play kind of product. There are no instructions, but the design is very common, so you can find out whatever you need to know for your application. I was very happy to discover that the output relays could be configured in a 2 toggle, 2 momentary arrangement. Very useful for applications that require something to be turned on before being triggered.FYI, the outputs can be changed by jumper settings, with each affecting all of the relay outputs. - Toggle (Pins 1&2) - Momentary (Pins 3&4) default - Latched (Pin 1 or removed) - 2 relays Toggle, 2 relays Momentary (Pins 1&2 and Pins 3&4)To the reviewer with range/interference issues, that doesn't sound like EMI, but rather conducted interference (Line noise). The LED's are likely sending noise back through the power supply rail, which is presumably powering the receiver board. The problem is that you're using a DC product in an AC application. Certainly feasible, but the responsibility to provide the board with "Clean" DC power at all times is on the user, not the manufacturer. A 12VDC switching power supply is not even remotely DC, and the LED drivers will be bouncing back all sorts of noise as they PWM the voltage to hold the diode's current steady. With 4 of those on the same rail, and a power supply likely putting out it's own spectrum of noise, the receiver board's power input is tainted. The receiver itself is a tuned oscillator with very little filtering on the supply (Again, because it's expecting actual DC), and it filters out a passband around 315MHz. If there's a lot of noise in that same band, it can't tell it apart from a valid signal or no signal at all. That is of course, unless the signal is very strong (i.e. very close). Everybody knows about the signal-to-noise ratio in transmitted RF, but they often forget about the conducted path.Try isolating the board's 12VDC from the load's 12VDC (LED's). Either wire the board to a separate, cleaner power supply, or run it through some filtering caps. It's very easy to test the theory by wiring the board to a 12V battery, but leaving the load supplied by the LED power supply.
C**R
Works great. I am using to automate starting of a ...
Works great. I am using to automate starting of a Honda generator. Looks to be exactly what I want. I have tested all channels and all work great.
S**T
It works great.
It works great.
T**N
Five Stars
works just like they say it will...
M**I
Five Stars
Worked well!
J**H
Remote
Happy with the wonderland remote
Trustpilot
3 days ago
4 days ago