Poly Welder Pro Polyethylene Welding Strips (5), Natural Color, 12" x 1/16" x 3/8"

Worked perfect for me

Poly Welder Pro Polyethylene Welding Strips - 5-feet (Black)The product I purchased was the black LDPE strips not the green or white. I have an older motorhome with black low density polyethylene holding tanks for both the black and grey water. The whole key to successfully plastic welding any of these tanks is finding out what the tanks are made of. In most cases the recycling symbol on the tank, usually a triangle with a number, will indicate what it is made of. In order to successfully weld plastic you must use a welding rod of either the same density as the tank, or welding rod of a lower density than the tank. In my case LDPE worked perfectly. Both tanks had stress cracks in multiple places from the metal bars and bolts that were used to bolt the tanks up to the floor of the motorhome. I did not remove the tanks when doing this. Both of these tanks were bone dry when I did the welding. First I tried using a very small triangular shaped iron to do it but it did not get hot enough to melt the plastic to a state of flow. At that point I just grabbed my propane torch, set it to approximately a 0.5 inch or shorter flame and applied it to both the tank and the rod at the same time. You can see the plastic melt both surfaces and they effectively became one solid piece of plastic. Grab the flat welding rod several inches above the end of it and apply a bend to it trying to flatten it out to the surface of the tank. Put the flame right where the 2 surfaces meet and it will become evident that they are melting together. Be light with the flame. If you hold it too long to that area you could melt it more than you need to. This also will become self-evident. You will become better at this type of welding quickly as you do it. The results were phenomenal. No leaks at all. Tested by filling both tanks up with water as the motorhome sat on our concrete driveway. The additional material that I added to the tanks seemed to increase the strength of the tank by making the tank thicker in that area. I don't anticipate ever having to do this again. It sure worked like a charm.

I bought these to weld up some spots on a very expensive kayak. Other than my own lack of skill the process went great. The plastic seems to be strong enough for light to medium kayak repairs. I would probably buy these again when I need more. I just wish they came in sheets for larger areas.

I am hard on my sit on top kayaks, dragging them across gravel, nailheads on decks, etc. The keel on one of them was gauged open by a nail head, and I tried everything to fix it. Plastic epoxy impregnating fibeglass cloth---it peeled off. 3M super adhesive that sticks to everything, with fiberglass cloth---it began to peel off at edges with light use. Nothing would stick once the kayak hit the rocks and sand. I bought the green plastic welding sticks and a heat gun. When you heat the plastic, first, the crack opens bigger and the plastic begins to deform a bit. But it doesn't look anything like liquid, so you are doubtful that it can stick securely to the welding sticks. And when you heat the plastic welding strip, it begins to droop but it also does not resemble liquid, so it seems doubtful that it will stick. You lay the strip across the crack, and at first the crack just seems to get wider as the plastic heats up. So you end up laying three strips across a crack that you thought would be covered by one strip. And you can't melt it completely smooth, because the shape of the boat begins to warp. I just licked a spoon so it wouldn't stick to the plastic, and smoothed it down a bit with the back of the spoon. I stopped before making a liquid mess of everything, deciding to test it before trying to get it any hotter. Thankfully, it seemed very secure once it cooled off, and I took it out to the beach and dragged it across the road three times, across the beach, and took it through the surf several times. It shows no signs of pulling loose, and it holds water. This is the first time for a very long time that my sit on top kayak did not take on water when going through the surf (silicone caulk in all the rivets also helped). If I was obsessive compulsive, I would file down the welding job so it was smooth and flush. But if you are obsessive compulsive, you will probably mess up the repair. Just let it be a little ugly, and it seems to hold just fine. Finally, I found something that repaired my kayak, and did not peel off.

I've used these a lot for repairing cracks and reinforcing the fenders and other body panels on my 1985 Honda Big Red three-wheeler. They work great with standard plastic welders, hot staplers, and even soldering irons if you know how to do it properly. If done correctly you can make a 30 or 40 year old piece look great again.When the time comes I'll definitely get more of these. I highly recommend grabbing some of these and learning the art of plastic welding. It's rewarding and saves a lot of expense.

The color was way lighter than pictured and the stuff melts kind of weird compared to other Polyethylene i've dealt with but I got it to work so I can't be to mad even if it's way off on color.

Had a gapping hole in my kayak in a tough corner. Since this came in strips I could bend them to cover the hole and melt them into the kayaks plastic to make a permanent seal using a heat gun.

Fast shipping.