Haedphone Splitter Adapter 3.5mm Jack Charge Adaptor.2 in 1 Connector Cable Adapter Earphone Adapter with Volume Control & Charging & Music

Dec 18, 2015 update:Anker makes good products & their customer service is definitely 5-Star. My original review panned this product due to its awful USB 3.0 female connector. I wrote:"The USB 3.0 female connector on the enclosure is miserable, at least on mine. USB 3.0 cables (& I've tried several different ones) do not maintain good contact, and readily lose connection -- a fatal flaw in something as critical as a SSD enclosure. Regardless of other merits, this flaw is unacceptable. At least the little LED light near the connector goes out when this happens."Anker's friendly customer service promptly contacted me, apologized for the inconvenience & offered to send a replacement, which they did. Their concern was genuine, not only in terms of their product but for me as a customer. They followed up by phone as well as email! I've seldom had a better customer service experience... and I didn't even make a big deal about it.That being said, the replacement unit's USB 3.0 connector is really no better. On the other hand, its e-Sata connector is perfectly secure. Here's how I evaluated them: I connected the housing (without a hard drive installed inside) to a USB 3.0 cable, then simply let it dangle downward... it fell off the cable immediately. However, it passes the same test with an e-Sata cable with no problem. So... -- If you are using this product with an e-Sata cable -- 5 Stars -- If you are using this product with USB 3.0 cable -- 2 StarsIn any case, Anker certainly impressed me with its concern for product reputation & their customers.

It's got USB 3 and eSATA in the same enclosure, which is rare enough. Both work, which is even better. The USB<->SATA bridge controller is even stable (up to ~11hrs tested continuously so far), which is a completely novel feature in my experience.But the best part is the physical design; there's no tenth-millimeter-thick PCB, badly fitted, either rattling around or abrading itself away any time you need to remove it, and hauling the drive in and out as you extract or insert the PCB.Instead, the electronics go at the back end of the enclosure, where hopefully you will never have to see nor touch them. Two edges of the enclosure form a single, solid 'arm' that swings out when the enclosure is opened; inserting a drive pushes the 'arm' part-way into place. (A bit like pushing a DIMM into a slot.) To actually lock the drive in, you continue swinging the arm back to the 'closed' position, then push down until a smallish detent clicks into place, locking the cover quite solidly.The drive will *not* pop out by accident at this point. Not ever. It takes some effort just to unlock the cover on purpose. (More in a moment.)A single, relatively robust 'spring ribbon' (unsure of the correct term) provides ample tension to hold the drive's power + data connectors quite firmly in place and prevent the drive bouncing around inside.The only possible downside: the 'manual' is a thin slip of the finest ultra-cheap paper with virtually no information. It fails to make clear that, to unlock the detent, the outside 'button' must be pushed firmly--*very* firmly--down as well as to the side. It takes even more force to lock the detent back in position; at least once a drive is installed in the enclosure.This is not a good choice for an 'emergency drive recovery' adapter; this enclosure was designed to accept a drive, lock solidly closed, and not be opened again until maybe the drive itself fails or you simply decide to upgrade it with something faster / bigger. You *can* remove the drive later, but clearly the designers didn't think you should need to do it often.A bonus for people who need it: the USB3<->SATA bridge appears to work surprisingly well for SATA command pass-through; probably via 'SAT' (SCSI/ATA Translation -- ANSI INCITS 431-2007). More information: https://www.smartmontools.org/wiki/USBIn short, you can monitor SMART attributes of the drive with software that understands SAT (a genuine standard, apparently). I've tested this with a popular, free Windows SMART monitoring / command-issuing tool. (CrystalDiskInfo.) It's probably also possible to issue ATA security (password set, password change, security freeze, etc.) commands and, issue drive self-test commands, and other advanced usages of the various ATA standards.It might even be possible to upgrade HDD / SSD firmware while the drive is connected via USB3 translation, although I wouldn't swear to it.

Pretty fast, >200Mega Bytes/Second on USB 3.0 with SSD media. Don't see the point of eSATA, because you still need power source like USB.There are some compatibility issues with some drives not fitting/ejecting out of the case. Just requires more fiddling then hoped for.---- Update ----The drive that has problems is a Vertex 4. The spring load cover almost makes it almost closed but the catch will not lock. You press it closed and it keeps springing back. But I don't think it is the drive.You have to press AND slide the button in the opposite of open for the cover to latch. Just pressing the cover, it will not latch. This is something I was deterred from trying because there is a label and an arrow that instructs you to do the opposite (the open instructions for sure).I also noticed on your design you use a conducting bit of spring steel to create friction to hold the drive in place. If you put the drive in flipped over, than the spring could damage the exposed electronics of the drive. I think that something non-conductive and softer (plastic covered) would be more tolerate of miss-inserting of the drive. Also, a simple legion on the cover to aid you in inserting the drive the correct way would be a nice touch.---- Update 2 ----Got an unsolicited replacement from Anker, which is nice to feel listened to!Largely the same product, with a small addition. They have included a protective sticker to protect the hard drive from the a fore mention spring. This solution only works on 1 hard-drive, if that is all your going to use it on, than OK.No change in the latching mechanism. It is a fine design, with a bad label. Fix the label and people with think it is OK. The instruction manual on Page 4 shows you how to do it now. I know how to do it, but the instructions keep misleading me into doing the wrong action.