SRAMPulleyset für X.7 Schaltwerk

On my 2011 Trek Gary Fisher 29er x-cal this is an exact fit for the x.7 (which is clearly stamped with a manufacturing date of 2010). These gears have an inner and outer plastic ring connected by "spokes." My lower gear was cracked clear through; on the upper gear only the inner ring was cracked. But the bike was still rideable. To replace the parts, I shifted the bike into smallest chainwheel and largest rear cog. This allows access through the rear wheel to the allen bolts. Remove both bolts, keeping top and bottom separated (though I'm not sure if lengths are different). Clean the cage before putting the new gears on. Put the lower gear on first with the printed side facing out, so it rotates clockwise while pedaling. The teeth on that gear are chamfered for smooth engagement. Upper gear teeth are symmetrical, but there is still a "sidedness" to the part, as you can see the spokes are angled and the inner aspect has 3 notches on one face. I installed this gear with notched side facing in, as the lower gear has the notched side facing out.With new parts the drive train rolls buttery smooth. Shifting is slightly more precise, but the biggest improvement is noise. Also, I don't have to worry about my cracked gears completely fragmenting and stranding me.Pease note, all the alloy aftermarket replacements appear to include two identical gears. The teeth are not chamfered on the lower gear, which may be why they are noisier.

These were an OEM replacement for my 2013 SRAM X7 jockey wheels.

I did a lot of searching for jockey wheels before I decided to buy these stock replacements for my X9 derailleur. Honestly, there are not a lot of options available. Outside of the SRAM factory replacements there are several aluminium options, some with sealed bearings and some without. Based on all my research the aluminum wheels don't hold up any longer than the plastic factory wheels and they can actually be louder/noisier while riding. When it comes to pricing some of the aluminum wheels are actually slightly cheaper than the plastic ones but I didn't want to take a chance that I wouldn't be happy with the wheels just to save a couple bucks. I have now had my new wheels installed with 50+ miles on them with no complaints. Do your self a favor and drop the $20 or so dollars on this replacement set and get back on the trail.Also, jockey wheels are a wear item so expect to change them out every so often if you ride a lot just like you would your chain. Overtime the springs in derailleurs also wear out and the shifts will not be as crisp and the gears will be harder to index. Since a generation 2 version of the X9 is only $90 and these wheels are around $20 I plan on replacing the rear derailleur every three sets of wheels.

They do not fit an apex mech.

This product came complete as expected. I easily swapped out a broken pulley on my SRAM rear derailler. Everything in original packaging. Excellent quality. New.

My original equipment x9 derailleur pulleys had become ninja throwing stars from wear so I slapped a set of the same back on. They only last about a season for me, but I ride 3x a week or so in nasty conditions. There were a bunch of aluminum options with fancy bearings I considered but I tend to wear our a derailleur over a couple of seasons from hard use so I treat pulleys as a wear item. Plus, the nylon design is quieter than metal pulleys so you may as well save a few bucks and put the money aside for buying an X0 to replace your worn x7/x9 when it's toast. Or just another of the same if budget is tighter-all derailleurs develop slop over time. A fresh X9 is better than a toasted X0 at the end of its life any day of the week. A good derailleur makes a big difference. Almost two decades of riding has taught me what parts are worth the money!

These pulleys are original equipment on late model SRAM X.9 (and other) derailleurs. Mine is the 2011 model, with one center hole (as illustrated). They were fairly easy to replace, but be aware that the two bolts that serve as axles are different lengths, and not interchangeable. As I recall, the longer one is the top one. I have not tried any of the aluminum jockey wheels, nor the ceramic bearing versions, so I cannot offer a comparison. But, I can say that these seem to work fine. However, I should add that one of my original ones cracked during the first year of use, approximately 3,000 miles. For reference, I ride a recumbent bike, with a 10' long chain, and I shift abruptly on occasion.

Easy to install and can't wait to use it!!!

Exactly as described.

did the job. replaced some really nasty old ones which were way past saving.

Do il massimo del voto perché trattasi di un prodotto genuino Sram.Su consiglio di un amico, visto i numerosi km percorsi con la mia mtb è dopo 6 anni di pedalate, nonostante le condizioni delle pulegge erano discrete ho decise di cambiarle. Premetto che non sono un mago dell’officina e per montarli ho fatto così: smontato la ruota e tolto la catena, uno per lavorare comodo e in secondo per pulire il deragliatore e la catena. Approfittatene di questo momento per dare una pulizia più profonda. Le pulegge prima di montarle vanno ingrassate con grasso bianco al Litio (antiacqua) tra le sfere è il parasole ere. . Molto importante é utilizzare del grasso blu, il frena filetti quando rimontate la puleggia con la sua vite. Poi date una stretta tra i 2,5 e 5 Nm.N.B.: nella confezione le pulegge sono 2 ma non uguali. In una ci sono le scritte del senso di montaggio (vedi foto allegata con scritte) . La stessa va montata con la scritta visibile in senso orario nel lato di quando guardate il pacco pignoni e va posta nella parte sotto (Lower).L’altra invece non a un senso, non ci sono scritte (vedi foto senza scritte) e va montata nella parte Superiore.P.S.: il deragliatore in questione é uno Sram X9 a 10V

Ho uno Sram x9 10v. Le pulegge sono leggermente più spesse di quelle originali, Ma roba di qualche decimo non lo vedi quando le prendi in mano. Il problema è che le viti passanti che tengono assieme la gabbia sono precisissime come lunghezza. Essendo le pulegge più spesse, le viti non sono riuscite bene a pescare il filetto e nel cercare di serrarle (il giusto non era la prima volta che aprivo la gabbia di un cambio) si sono spanate creandomi un danno non da poco... Fortunatamente sono riuscito ad aggiustarmi alla buona, ma il danno c'è stato... Per il prezzo che hanno mi aspettavo un prodotto perfetto.

...anche se a mio avviso leggermente costose. In ogni caso, ho sostituito le vecchie pulegge SRAM che avevo sul mio X0 del 2015. Totalmente compatibili come si legge nella descrizione. C'è una puleggia che va in basso (leggere la dicitura nella puleggia stessa per identificare quale è) e con le scritte verso di voi, mentre l'altra che va in alto come la montate la montate bene in quando non ha il verso.Se avete delle pulegge "stanche" nel vostro SRAM, con queste ritroverete precisione nella cambiata e silenziosità. Le pulegge di alluminio saranno anche belle ma... fanno troppo rumore! Ne ho provate tante ma poi sono tornato sempre alle pulegge in plastica.