Geotagger Pro2-f is camera GPS unit for Nikon Df, D750, D610, D600, D7200, D7100, D7000, D5500, D5300, D5200, D5100, D5000, D3300, D3200, D3100 and Coolpix P7800, Coolpix P7700, CoolPix A

If you're using a Nikon D7000 and don't want to upgrade to a 7100 or later to get GPS, you're probably interested in this. Works well, high accuracy (left it running while driving around town, and later correlation with the Viking package was able to map which lane of the road I was in).Downside: a somewhat wonky menu system (hard to avoid when you've only got a few buttons). Fortunately, most of the settings are ones you'll only do once. But keep a printed copy of the menu in your camera bag just in case...

Thanks, As described and fast delivery to Vancouver, Canada. 🎉 🚗 🇨🇦

I love this GPS. Also came with a camera remote. Great Buy

Updated again. The cable is impossible to keep plugged in.Updated review. After a couple of trips, I recommend the Solmeta Geotagger N3-c instead of this model. They both perform well in terms of geotagging. This model is slightly bigger and has a bunch of features that I don't really care about.Annoyances:* The cable plugs into the gps and the camera and is easy to disconnect from the gps. The N3-c is permanently attached to the gps.* It's one more thing to charge AND requires their custom charging cable. Buying a spare cable costs you $30 in shipping.* It's supposed to switch over to camera power when the battery is dead, but the one time I forgot to charge it, it didn't work off the camera battery.* The N3-c is $50 cheaper but draws it's power from the camera which means you need a spare battery; on the other hand you can buy a spare battery for $50.I've been very happy with the Solmeta Geotagger N3-c.****With expedited shipping the Geotagger got her in about a week. I haven't done extensive shooting with it yet, but everything appears to be working well with my Nikon D7200. I have owned the NC-3 geotagger by the same company for several years and like it. Having the geotagging data embedded directly in the photo data without any post processing makes it almost painless. Performance seems to be about the same with the two models. Primary differences between the two models are the NC-3 is $50 cheaper, doesn't have an internal battery, doesn't maintain a location log (bread crumbs) and doesn't have a display. The NC-3 draws power entirely from the camera which does shorten the battery life meaning I have to carry an extra battery when I'm out for the day. The Pro2-f has an internal rechargeable battery it uses up first and then will draw power from the camera. I haven't tested that yet. It has quite an extensive display as opposed to the LED display on the NC-3, but if you just want to know GPS status the LED display works better. I'm not sure I'll every do anything with the tracking stuff so, all in all, I'm on the fence about which model is the better deal. In any case, I expect it to perform as well as the NC-3 I've been happy with with additional features.

I purchased the Solmeta Geotagger Pro2-f from a non-Amazon vendor as I needed it in a hurry and found a USA shipper who would send it via overnight delivery (vs. from China on Amazon, which would have taken 7-10 days.) To summarize my longer review which follows, it works EXCELLENT for recording lat/long as well as direction of the photo using the built-in compass. I had no problems with it, it is well-designed and constructed, and I do recommend it if you don’t mind paying a bit more for the options it offers. The build quality, packaging and instructions are way ahead of cheaper models such as the Marrex also sold here on Amazon (see my separate reviews.) I will update this review if I encounter problems with the unit in future use (do take note of a problem with the plug on a similar Solmeta model mentioned below).I was eager to compare the Pro2 to the cheaper “little brother” Solmeta model I purchased here on Amazon, the N3-C. Both were used on my Nikon D610 cameras. Briefly comparing the two: The Pro2 has an LCD display allowing many more options to be programmed, and it can show lat/long/direction, battery status, GPS lock, and other information. The N3-C has only a blinking/solid red/green LED light indicating status. The Pro2 costs more, has an internal battery (switches to camera battery when the internal goes dead), and is either more complicated to use or offers more advanced features, depending on your point of view! The N3-C is simpler to operate, and draws power only from your camera’s battery (requiring possible use of spare batteries if shooing for hours at a time.)In a couple days of side-by-side shooting, EITHER model was very accurate in terms of position and direction of the photos I took. (I should however mention that I had a problem with the plug coming apart on the cheaper N3-C, and the plug looks identical in construction to the one on the Pro2, but am hoping I don’t have similar problems here…please see my separate review of the N3-C for details.) To be 100% clear, I had no problems with the plug on the Pro2 where it plugs into the GPS, nor with the plug going into the camera, but “that end” where it goes into the camera looks exactly like the plug on the N3-C, which I did have a problem with, so I think that’s worth mentioning here.The Pro2 comes very nicely packaged in a professional-looking box, complete with instruction manual in color (and 95% readable English, easy to comprehend), an adapter allowing you to optionally clip it to your camera strap rather than putting it in the hot shoe (be advised this may throw off the compass readings if the device is not level), and a wireless remote control (not tested yet!) There is also a proprietary charging cable, possibly the only negative thing about this device (another cable to keep track of). However if you should lose/forget the charging cable, the Pro2 can draw power from the camera’s battery when its own battery is discharged. (Unlike another review here, I confirm the Pro2 does work even when its own battery is dead, when it is plugged into a camera that has a charged battery.)The Pro2 comes with your choice of camera connection cable (select at order time). Since Nikon has blessed us with a couple different connectors, select the one which fits your camera. On the plus side, you can order spare cables and use the same device with other camera models; on the negative side, this means there is another connection between the device and your camera, introducing possible issues of bad connection, dirt/water intrusion, etc. I’ve had no problems in this regard so far (I DID have occasional cable problems with earlier model Solmetas…this one however seems much better built than those of a few years ago.) In particular, the cable with the Pro2 is an “L” shape, which means it comes up the side of the camera rather than sticking out unnecessarily (where it can be bumped or snagged). The “weak link” in all of these hot-shoe mounted GPS devices, in my view, is the point where they attach to the camera’s remote socket. Nikon’s design for the remote socket on the D610 (or the D7100, D90, etc.) is not very robust; the rubber flap basically gets in the way and can put pressure on the cable/socket when inserted. The cables for GPS devices need to make the most of this (weak) design. The L-shape of this cable minimizes possible stress on the socket of the camera. Additionally, I have Arca-style L-brackets mounted to my cameras, and have found that the side opening of the L-bracket surrounds the L-plug and connector, which “nests” inside the bracket so is seldom bumped by anything when I place it in my bag.It was quite simple to use the Pro2 in the field. I charged the battery, mounted it to my camera, turned it on, waited a couple minutes for satellite lock (I was outside, naturally), ran the brief calibration procedure (video on Solmeta’s web site if needed) and started shooting. When checking the images later, I found they were accurately placed (within 20 feet or less for sure under open sky) in Google Earth, and that the direction of view was generally recorded accurately as well. I use HoudahGeo software on my Mac to generate a Google Earth file, which quickly lets me check location/direction of my photos. The Pro2 has an option to select magnetic or “true” north (not available on the cheaper N3-C, which has only magnetic north). Be advised that any compass, including the one in the Pro2, can be thrown off by nearby metal objects, so for example exit your car before shooting if you want accurate readings on direction.I won’t go through every feature/option of the Pro2, but as stated I do recommend it if you want more options, an LCD readout, an internal battery, and a separate connector cable option. If not, get the cheaper N3-C. For more on what it can do, just take a look at the manual which you can download from Solmeta’s web site. While you’re there, look at the video showing the necessary compass calibration process…it says this should be done before first use, and when switching the device to another camera. It is not hard to do, and takes just a minute or so.My only hesitation in recommending this unit is the problem I had with its “little brother”, where the plug came apart. I did receive good support from the seller who sent me a replacement cable I was able to install myself (they offered to fix it for me if I wanted to send it back to China, or send the part for self-repair).

It works fine as expected, no complains. However, the Geotagger took several weeks for delivery. I though the company had dropped the ball and I was ready to cancel the order and search for a different device.

Works just fine. Expected coordinate conversion to actual street locations