Oatey 43538 4-inch Black ABS Cast Iron Closet Flange Replacement

This unit was purchased to replace a rotted cast iron flange while upgrading our bathroom floor. The only draw back I ran into was the cast iron pipe isn't smooth like PVC piping used in newer homes and the old pipe was slightly out of round. I used a cylinder hone after grinding off the high portions of the inside of the cast iron pipe. I also temporarily used a clamp to slightly correct the out of roundness. After doing those slight modifications, the unit went in the pipe snugly, secures to the new floor very well and secures the toilet securely. Most importantly, NO LEAKS!Using this unit definitely beats the old way of securing a flange to the cast iron piping. No oakum or lead needed!

Been remodeling my house for about 2 years in my freetime. This flange was perfect for retrofitting during my bathroom remodel, a few notes:1. If you're retrofitting an old cast iron pipe, like many others have mentioned, you will need to fight. In my case i had to cut the pipe using a cast iron attachment for a 9$ recirpocating saw from harbor freight, after it was cut to match my tile height, you need to make sure the insude of the pipe is smooth for this flange. Easiest way is to take an old whole saw and go to town on the inside, the friction is enough to break rust, and grime/shit free from the interior of the pipe.2. Wear a P100 mask while you do this work and ventilate the room, keep it away from the rest of the house, these old pipes used molten lead or lead based silicon for attachments of joints, even if you're not near a joint your old cast-iron flange will have been poured in place with lead of some sort, use a mask and ventilate, don't be stupid.3. Once your interior of the pipe is smooth for about 3 inches, you're fine. For extra measure i used silicon on the inside of the flange to ensure there was a tight seal, but that's not needed for an install, you will be caulking around your toilet anyway which will prevent any backflush.4. If you have an old house, you may also have "gurgling" problems from inadequately vented pipes. Be sure to get an AAV (oatey or any knockoff works fine) attached somewhere near another entry of the same stack this pipe is attached to. This will prevent the gurgling from a nearby sink or drain pipe.All in all i have had no problems with this product, if i ever get another old house with cast iron pipes this is the one to go with.

Great solution for old waste pipes without having to break the bank. This option offered a viable solution for an old lead waste pipe in a concrete floor.

I used this on an old cast iron pipe in a basement bathroom. Other reviewers have nicely detailed that this can be a difficult process because of the build up on the inside of the cast iron pipe (like rust). Using a holesaw and a drill, I was able to clean up the inside of the pipe so that this flange would fit nicely and have a smooth surface to seal against.TIP: Continue tightening the three bolts for this flange until they reach a clear stopping point. I was not sure when to stop and was afraid I would break it by overtightening. Thankfully, I kept tightening and it was obvious when I reached the "end" and the bolts would have required significant force to go any farther. It will feel snug pretty quick, but again, you'll hit a pretty obvious stopping point when it is completely sealed.

Ultimately I did get this to fit my 50+ year old, 4” Cast Iron drain pipe, but it took A LOT of scraping the inside surface of the pipe to get it to fit. Over the years the inside of the drain pipe corroded and had a “bumpy” rusty, solid build up. There is NO WAY it would fit without removing the significant build up. I ended using a 3-5/8” bi-metal hole saw to clean the inside surface, and I eventually got it to fit, but that required a lot of effort, and likely destroyed my $18 Hole Saw in the process.I do like the fact that the seal is on the inside surface; as opposed to the outside surface like the Oatey 42255 (mentioned below) and I am oaky with the reduction in the opening of this fitting ( the opening on the toilet is smaller so I figured it was okay).So if you are intent on using the this flange and have an old Cast Iron drain, I would factor in the fact that you may have a significant task in cleaning out the inner diameter of the pipe in order to get this to fit. So I would give it a try and if it doesn’t fit seek other options if you are not up to the task of cleaning the inner surface. If your pipe is nearly level to the surface of the finish floor, then the Oatey 42255 may be an easier-to install option.I may have been able to use Oatey 42255 (I didn’t try it), which would be been easier, but I was concerned that the pipe was below the finished tile (by about ½”), and I have read reviews that that it only works when your pipe is level with the finished floor; so I was concerned that the gasket may not get a proper seal. I persevered with this flange so ultimately cannot comment on the Oatey 42255.I also can’t speak to the fit of this flange with plastic drains. It should definitely fit inside (the spec for plastic is 3.998”), but not sure the gasket can expand enough to seal. For technical types: I measured the Flange OD of this fitting to be 3.7”. The specification for 4” Cast Iron internal diameter is 3.94, so it “should” fit with 0.24” clearance. Perhaps my Cast Iron is different (old), or the built-up was that significant, but as I mentioned I had a heck of a time getting it to fit. So just something to be aware of if you are looking for a replacement flange and looking at this one.

Had to use a drill to drill out the lead affixing the metal flange. Then once weakened a few hits with a 3lb hammer and it came off pretty easy.This does reduce the opening because it fits on the inside. We have not had any issues since we installed it months ago. Previous flange was even with floor and probably why it eventually failed. This one we mounted on top of the new flooring. Can be a challenge to get screws into the subfloor, had to angle them. This flange does provide 2 holes at the very edge and it was helpful.

Great product

Makes any tough job with 3” copper piping as easy fix. Only issue is that if you want to make this a temp option, like during a renovation where it will need to be adjusted, make sure first temp install is clamped just enough to seal it. I found adjustment after final flooring install required flange to be completely removed and the white plastic gasket had to be adjusted. Overall I love this option for copper pipe imbedded in concrete.

The expanding membrane is not attached to the frame of the throat. And released from the throat when tightened. Which stopped the expansion of the membrane to make a seal against the pipe. This may not happen if the tightening is only 1/2 the amount of the distance. In my case the I needed to tighten to the full capacity and this maybe passed the expansion limit.

It helped correct a floor height issue. With the expanding connection and the solid screw down points the toilet is rock solid on the floor, much better than before. It simplifys and leaves no concern about a solid connection.

After so much hustle with removal of the old flange, this new one was so easy to install.