The Mountaineering Handbook: Modern Tools and Techniques That Will Take You to the Top (INTERNATIONAL MARINE-RMP)

Apart from a couple of good points (especially the section on forces) I hated this book! It lacks details and it's of little use when it comes to recreating the techniques described. The author is very opinionated against classic mountaineering techniques but doesn't offer a sensible alternative for the inexperienced climber; the approach to mountaineering offered in this book appears a good alternative for the experienced classic climber who wants to try something different. Being a climber with intermediate experience I feel the classic method makes more sense from a learning and practical point of view, plus it offers a more systematic approach to techniques and safety. However I agree with the author when he says not to take everything from the classic method as universal truth, instead use your head (this is why I liked the section on forces).The sections on nutrition, training and psychology are a joke! Just superficial notions taken from more specialised sources! Get a good book on sport nutrition and motivation instead.

A quirky book, tells you how the author does it, not neccessarily textbook stuff. He has clearly researched the science behind this in detail. Especially, memorable is how he argues coventional glacier rescue techniqes, don't actually work very well.Interesting stuff, but not necessarily what you are looking for in mountaineering text book. He refers to the climber as 'she' throughout..!

Excellent value for money. Very informative. Extremely useful.

This book contain lots of useful stuff and the author does a good job in not just listing lots of different options (like another famous book he loves to bash) but actually giving recommedations on what works. The author has very strong opinions about certain things that perhaps are less emotional to others but it adds some flavour to the text. If he were more balanced it would have been a duller read. Especially, read his calculations about forces acting on protection and climbers. Some disturbing news about the first piece of protection! This is good stuff and this is the only book where I have seen it done properly. Well done Craig!

Working at height in industry for twenty years, then moving into mountaineering raised a few eyebrows when it came to seeing typical belays and anchors! It wasn't until I read this book that I found an author that seemed to have a thorough scientific understanding of a roped safety system, tempered with what seems sound experience to provide reasonable and practicable solutions.As mentioned by another reviewer, the metric units are often out (typos mostly). However, climbing forces are covered very well in the metric system, and there is plenty of good info on Metric navigation techniques in other classic books.The most serious error I have found, is an illustration of a tibloc used as a simul-climb anchor on page 308; the karabiner should capture the rope, so that in a lead fall, the rope rotates and is held, around the smooth edges of the karabiner, rather than the two thin edges of the Tibloc. Great that the technique is discussed!I thoroughly recommend this book, if only to help put to bed the issue of how to set anchors for belayer, the second and anchor No.1 of the lead!

Im sure this is all good modern info but just be aware that it is in a very American style. For example, there is the usual mix-up of units: oz of gel and lbs of water per pound of body weight. The section on foods is about all gels and powders and is actually quite funny because the author is so serious about 'performance'. If you use a figure of eight descender and eat GORP (good ol raisins and peanuts apparently) then this is not the book for you.