The Lost Explorer: Finding Mallory on Mount Everest

Good coverage. Photos not the best. I read it for education and entertainment.

In June 1924, British climbers George Mallory and Sandy Irvine began what they hoped would be the first successful summiting of Mount Everest. Instead, they would vanish and set in motion a mystery as to their fate and possible accomplishment. A mystery whose solution began to come into focus in May 1999 with the discovery of Mallory's final resting place on the mountain by an expedition including noted climber Conrad Anker.The Lost Explorer is, despite being comparatively short, two books in one. Part of it, arguably the more interesting, is a biography of Mallory and a history of his efforts to climb Everest. The other is Anker and the 1999 expedition that found his remains. One offers the past, the other a view from the then present. The differences in climbing, both terms of people and equipment, and the public perception of them, especially with the discovery of Mallory's remains, highlight the 75-year gulf between events. It's something that sometimes leaves the 1999 sections of the book feel a bit snippy and a tad self-congratulatory, perhaps as it's the first draft of history instead of analysis in the way the Mallory-centric sections are.But it's the climber's tales that make this book as readable as it is. Even for someone who doesn't climb, it's hard not to be in awe of what they accomplished or might even have done, as feats of courage and strength. Carl Sagan in Cosmos said that "Exploration is in our nature," and there's little doubt in this reviewer's mind of how true that was for Mallory and Anker both. Even if you're in disagreement with Anker's conclusions about what his illustrious predecessor may have done on a June day nearly a century ago, the respect is clear, even with the snowy mists of time.

I have always been fascinated with Everest and the lore surrounding the expeditions to conquer the third pole. I have been particularly interested in the man who when asked why he wanted to climb Everest irritatedly quipped "because it's there!" "The Lost Explorer" tells the story of the expedition that in 1999 went looking for his partner Sandy Irvine and instead found the legendary George Mallory.The story is told with two voices. The first is David Roberts who gives historical background to the first two British expeditions in 1921 and '22 that set the stage for the dramatic events in 1924 that saw Mallory and Irvine disappear in a snowstorm and vanish into history. He follows Mallory from his youth and introduction to mountaineering through his rise to the upper echelon of the tightly knit world of climbers. But this is not a case of hero worship by Roberts. He presents Mallory as a man who was concurrently absent minded about the simple things in life and single minded in his obsession with climbing. Irvine, although not a minor figure in the drama of 1924, is drawn as an inexperienced climber who bought his ticket to immortality through his innate ability to improvise the equipment the team would need for their final assault on the roof of the world.Conrad Anker, a well respected world-class climber, is the man who lent the book the voice of an experienced mountaineer. He tells the story of the 1999 expedition including his attempt to free-climb the Second Step. He also tells of the teams summit attempt and the trials they faced as the neared the top.The two writers speak in different voices and from different perspectives. Anker is more matter of fact than Roberts in his prose and both balance the tragic story of the 1924 expedition and the sadly triumphant 1999.Whether you hope to someday stand on the foot of the great mountain and view her with the awe and majesty she calls for or wish to follow the path of others up her icy and windswept slopes, buy this book.Chomolungma beckons.

I am a Mazama and have climbed my mountains, ever since becoming a Mazama at age 13 (51 years ago) I dreamed of climbing Everest. That dream led me to read every book on Everest, watch every documentary, watch every movie, watch every video clip and read every magazine and newspaper article I could get my hands on on Everest. One of the subjects which captured my interest was Mallory and his life, climbs, and did he die coming down or going up. Before reading this book I thought he died coming down from the summit, but Conrad's book and his detailed analysis of everything and his first hand experience in attempting the 2nd step free style has changed my mind definitively. After reading this book, I don't believe that any serious climber can doubt that Mallory died going up and not reaching the summit. He may have been going up or went higher and was coming down, but there is little doubt that with his equipment, his boots and the 5.10 steepness of a 90 foot 2nd step climb - that he did not top the 2nd step. But even if he had, there is no way he downclimbed it without a flashlight. Even if he had a flashlight it would have been impossible with his clothing, climbing rope and boots. So Hillary was the 1st up Everest afterall. Read this book, it does a great job looking at what it was like climbing in Mallory's day and comparing it to Conrad's climb today, as well as Conrad - a great climber of tough routes - putting himself in Mallory's shoes in his time period and facing this climb.

I always enjoy books about everest. This one is a cool biography too. Well worth reading and it's a fast read too

Very engaging from start to finish. It makes a nice modern companion to my other favorite Mallory & Irvine book: Last Climb. I thoroughly enjoyed both in equal measure. Really appreciative of the insights & perspective of Conrad Anker, and his thoughts on whether or not Mallory & Irvine had actually summited. I agree with Conrad. I can’t imagine how, but it’s a intriguing what if.

This is more thrilling than a thriller

Don't want to spoil it for you with the answer, you have to finally make up your own mind. He either did or he didn't make it past the Second step and the much forshortened climb to the summit. Did he discard the heavy oxygen cylinders and make a dash for it or continue with their heavy weight. There's a lot to take into consideration not forgetting his inexperienced partner who wasn't hell bent on death or glory as Mallory was. Did Irvine sit it out at the Second step. We know there was a fall, this book points to there being two separate incidents. We know the location of where Mallory was found and this book locates to the very position where he must have fallen from.But the facts are known, the route has been completed many times since. But was a man of Mallory's talent, fitted out in cutting edge clothing of the day, but now seen as wildly inadequate get to the top.I couldn't put this book down.

I really enjoyed this book and found it to be really interesting. It has encouraged me to check out more books about Mount Everest and other mountaineering activities. I look forward to it and I hope I enjoy reading them as much I enjoyed reading this!

I am not a climber but I am fascinated by mountains and in awe of the people who do climb them. I knew very little about George Mallory and Sandy Irvine, having read more about more recent expeditions - but I kept coming across references to the two men and their disappearance on Everest so decided to give this book a shot. I was totally gripped from page 1. As well as telling twin stories - of the 1920s expeditions to explore and to climb Everest by the British mountaineering establishment and the modern expedition of 1999 to find the bodies of Mallory and Irvine - the two writers give a real insight into how equipment and climbing techniques have changed over 75 years and,for me, a fairly conclusive argument that Mallory and Irvine were ultimately probably not successful in their attempt to summit the mountain before their deaths. The two authors knowledge and writing style complement each other, each bringing to life different aspects of the story. Highly recommended!

The book is well researched and an interesting account of the climbing career and life of George Mallory, the man who it is considered by some the first to climb Everest. I found the book an enthralling read particularly the passages that detail Mallory’s life as a man and climber. I found the co-author, Conrad Anker though clearly articulate and vastly experienced in his field, keen to bring his own achievements to the fore on many occasions and for me take the reader away from the meat of the story. However I wouldn’t let that detract from what is a very worthwhile read. I will add that the book is not finished to a high quality, several of the captions to the photographs have been trimmed off which is a shame. However on balance I would recommend this book.The one question that still still remains after reading this book, was Mallory the first to climb Everest? well there’s no definitive answer to that but it certainly helps guide your opinion.