RadonAway23029-1 RP140 Radon Mitigation Fan, 4",White

Replaced a 12 year old version of this same model. The old one was getting very noisy with a high pitched whine. This one is much quieter. Mine came with only a 2 wire hookup (hot and neutral) with no ground wire. The instructions say this is OK and is expected on some versions of the motor.

I decided to attempt installing my own radon mitigation fan, after discussing this with a few friends who hired professionals and were astounded by how simple the install process was (note: we all had existing passive systems; a full mitigation would likely require a professional). So, I ordered all of the hardware (this fan, a power cord, and couplings for the existing pipe).After connecting the power cord, I went into my attic, cut the pipe in two places, slid the couplings and fan in, tightened it down, and plugged in power. Whhrrr... just a quiet little whir is all I hear when standing in the attic right next to this fan. Downstairs in my home, it's as if nothing is even up there - completely silent.To boot, this fan also consumes significantly less energy than other fans - it is the only energy star certified radon fan, which is important since this thing will be running 24/7 forever. RadonAway has a handy calculator on their website allowing you to easily identify how much money you will spend annually running this thing, and in my case it was less than half the amount of the next-level-up fan I was comparing to.Finally, the thing works. Our radon levels were ~14pCi/L in the basement, ~8pCi/L on the main level. After installing the fan and running it for 2 weeks, I re-tested and our levels in the basement were down to 3pCi/L, and 0.8pCi/L, meaning that this fan is doing an excellent job.Oh, don't forget to buy a power cord for this!

The fan I replaced was the exact same make and model and it lasted over 10 years. Setting this one up and installing it was super easy. I saved over $500 by buying this and doing it on my own just following the directions.

I had a radon fan from the competitor and it was noisy and really cranked up my electrical bill. I know that air movement under the concrete slab is good, and my crawlspace is fairly small (around 500 sqft), so a low power, energy efficient fan is exactly what I needed.It still vibrates PVC pipe a little, so I’m going to put LDVI couplers above and below the fan, then make sure to put rubber gaskets around the pipe straps, which should eliminate any vibrations.

My old RP140 died after 5 years. The last 2 years of its life, it became loud and annoying when I was seated in the room alongside where the fan was mounted outside. In the winter time it was especially loud. It was obvious it was dying.The new one fit perfectly in place of the old one. After shutting off the breaker to the fan, I unscrewed the wire casing and detached the wires from the electrical line. I had PVC clamps holding the fan on at both ends, so once I loosened those I was able to jimmy the fan out from the PVC pipes. A quick replacement of the clamps, rewiring to the electrical line, and it worked like a champion. Replacing a fan in an existing system is probably a 15 minute job if you're home improvement savvy, but still only about 30-40 minutes even if you're not.The new fan is quiet and produces a steady, low airflow. The old fan reduced my radon from 8-11 pCi/L in most places in my basement to 0.8-1.5 pCi/L. Unfortunately, because the electronic radon monitor I have requires re-calibration every year, I don't have a reliable test to check my current levels with the new fan installed.For most homes, this fan should suffice to reduce your radon below EPA recommended levels. However, if your home has very high levels of radon, you might want to opt for a higher airflow fan (such as the RP145), as in a mitigation system, it will suck more of the air from your drain tiles and the soil surrounding your foundation. Bear in mind that the EPA states that any level of radon is capable of giving you lung cancer, but the level where the EPA recommends action is currently 4.0 pCi/L (changed from 8.0 just a handful of years ago).Because the old unit barely lasted 5 years, I couldn't give this 5-stars. I'm hoping the new unit lasts much longer.If you are concerned about your radon levels, test your home. There are cheap test kits out there, and more expensive electronic kits. Or you could call a professional home inspector out to use a professional device. If your radon levels are above the EPA recommended level of 4.0 pCi/L, then you should probably install a mitigation system. However, the two companies that originally came out to give me a radon mitigation estimate both seemed like fly-by-night, unshaven 19-21 year old scam artists that got into this business because it was super profitable, as they charged $1200 in 2008 to install the whole system in an hour and a half (I had the former homeowners pay for it as a condition of buying the house). What does the whole system involve? They sealed the sump with clear acrylic that you can buy at any big box hardware store, and they installed a path of PVC pipes expelling the air out above the gutters of my home with this fan in the middle of it, producing the airflow. That's it. In 2008 there wasn't much regulation for it, and maybe that's changed now and these companies require licensing, etc. But for what they did, any handyman or do-it-yourselfer could do for MUCH less.Disclaimer: Please do not take my review as professional advice. I'm just your average homeowner.

I bought this to replace the exact same fan which had run 24/7 for 12 years. The old one started making noises, like maybe the bearing was going so I replaced it. The new one is installed now (piece of cake) and running like a champ - silently. Fingers crossed for another 12 year run.

Supposedly, the 'c' version is the cheaper consumer grade product with thinner plastics and slightly different construction. I believe same specs, just not built as durable as the non 'c' version. Received the different model than what was listed.

This was exactly what my house needed and it delivered so quickly. I had a radon fan that came with my house, when I purchased it a few years ago. The radon was growing louder as time passed. It was obvious to me that it was on its last leg and would soon quit working. When I was looking around for radon services I found that it would cost me $300-$600 to have a radon tech come to my house and install JUST THE FAN! Since I already had the rest of the radon system installed I saw no need to pay that ridiculous price.i installed the fan my self after wiring it correctly and installing new cup links and it runs great. My pressure gauge was at .8 before I removed the old unit so I was aware that I needed the pressure to be the same once I installed the new unit. Once it turned the pressure stabilized at .8 and it runs as quite as can be. Great product and quick deliver.

This is a short term review (2 weeks use).Unit works great. Had Radon levels averaging 300-350 bq/sqm, installed a discharge vent pipe without fan (passive system) which sadly did pretty much nothing. Once this unit was installed, I let the detector (Air things, amazing unit too) run for over a week to calibrate and give a proper average since Radon level sometimes have great variations. The average over 2 weeks is 15-20 bq/sqm now.Looked around a lot and it is the only unit I've found that seem to have North American certifications and the unit is really well built, not something you'd look at and think "meh it looks cheap so let's hope it work...".At first when I turned it on I thought it was loud, but the unit was really in my face, took 3 steps back and down the ladder, really not bad. Closed the door of the mechanical room and we can't hear it at all anywhere in the house even at night. It's quieter than the well pump, air exchanger and AC/heat pump (and much more quieter than our fridge!).It is important to note it doesn't come with any accessories : no rubber couplings/clamps (4 inches), no power cord/socket grommet or negative pressure reader/meter. It doesn't have any LED or on/off running indicator, you just have to get close to it to hear the humming once plugged (or hardwired, your choice) or install a pressure meter separately.The unit I received only has 2 wires (no ground) instead of 3, which apparently is normal and ok as it is wired that way according to other users and manufacturer's manual. Some people mentioned receiving 3 wires unit which must either be newer/older models I guess, maybe different motor suppliers..? As long as it is internally wired properly, doesn't matter as you have to supply the power cord yourself, so buy the right wire accordingly.Will try and do a long term EDIT in time.

Product Performance:I give this pump a solid 5-star rating. It operates efficiently, although there's a noticeable hum in our utility room. This isn't a major issue and is quite bearable. I also wish it would have included a cord grommet. The first pump was DOA but the exchange was easy (although it took a couple weeks because the pumps ship on ground from the US), the second pump worked fine.DIY Mitigation Journey:As a Canadian homeowner and DIYer, I found the information on radon mitigation predominantly US-centric and somewhat vague. I hope my experience provides clarity for fellow Canadians.Monitoring Equipment: I started with an Airthings air monitor, which I highly recommend. It helped me track radon levels over a few months, ranging from lows of 150 Bq/m³ to peaks of 750 Bq/m³, with an average around 350 Bq/m³. The levels increased under snow cover.Preparation and Installation: I crafted a 3/4 plywood lid for my sump, complete with holes for the sump discharge and radon exhaust pipe, and treated it for moisture resistance with some extra exterior stain I had. Weather stripping was key for a tight seal. I installed a 4.5" exhaust through my stucco wall, using 4" heavy-duty PVC, elbows, and rubber couplers. Unlike some US guides, I didn’t extend the exhaust over the house soffit, as I didn't find it necessary and I have continuous basement monitoring.Results and Observations: Post-installation, radon levels drastically reduced to 19 Bq/m³ overnight, now averaging between 9-70 Bq/m³, with an average of 35 Bq/m³. A brief test of turning off the system resulted in a spike, so continuous operation seems best. The estimated annual running cost is about $70.Cost and Conclusion: The total DIY installation cost was around $450 (excluding the monitor). While there’s some debate over radon risks, I believe this investment is a small price for peace of mind.Final Thoughts:This project was a significant learning experience, and I hope my review aids others in their radon mitigation efforts, especially in the Canadian context. The pump’s performance has been excellent, and the overall process, though intricate, was quite manageable for a DIY project.

Pre pump radon levels where 15 to 17. 2 days after installation I was at 1.5. I used 4 inch pipe with 2 rubber couplings top and bottom fitted to the female end if pipe for a snug fit. Made a wooden platform anchored off the wall . I used automotive rubber fuel line cut into small 1 inch pieces under the pumps mounting housing as insulators. Quiet as a mouse. . Note. Remove the included hardware OUT of the pump after unpacking. I'm sure some people don't even see it in there and then complain about noise after turning it on. For wiring I had a long power chord that I cut off a old power washer . Took a minute to wire it in . Excellent product than runs 24/7. Levels fluctuate regularly but never higher than 2.5 even in cold weather

Radon mitigation

The media could not be loaded. When you spin it by hand you can already hear it rubbing against something. It's already unbalanced! For the money you're asking for this plastic, it should spin without running it on 120V. Good for trash. I'm sending it back to you to bury.