Taulman 910 Reel, 3 mm Filament, 1lb., Black

I had to produce a high strength high temperature group of prototypes for a client (I have a small startup and I have several consulting clients as well). It took a little adjustment to get the prints to come out ideally, so plan a little time to tune your settings. However, once dialed in I had zero issues with warping off the build platform, and I'm fairly happy with how things turned out. It does shrink a bit, but I've seen worse with ABS. I suggest starting with Taulman's recommended settings. I found that increasing to 255C over 250 increased layer adhesion, and the bed didn't need to be above 45C with some glue stick/PVA coating, and printed with a brim. Nylon has some oozing/stringing tendencies, so you have to tune retraction and travel speed. I have a few printers but was using an Ultimaker 2+ for this. The material does not emit a smell, though there are studies on nylon putting out some particles that can irritate your respiratory system. I haven't found any issues personally after a week working close to the printer in my design studio. Do follow recommendations on drying the material. I was having quality issues until I broke down and dried it in a toaster oven for 8 hours at 200F - made a huge difference. Support material settings must be adjusted too - nylon is VERY tough so removing material that is too closely printed is very tedious. It can be sharp even though it is soft, but tends not to be as sharp as PLA when breaking off. Overall very strong, very tough, comes out beautifully when printed, prints quickly. Taulman answered a few questions and pointed me in the right direction on settings.

Works great I print at 265° the bed I leave at 95 degrees with just regular white glue stick have not had any problems with these settings. I print bumpers for my quads to protect the arms and cameras very strong, before I used carbon fiber but this is way cheaper.

I'll be the first to admit that I am not a 3D printing genius, but I tried really hard to love Alloy 910 and have just dropped two nearly-full spools of it into my trash can. That's because I have just destroyed a second Aerostruder print head with it. At $250 each, this is super-frustrating.The problem? No matter what I do, I can't seem to get Alloy 910 to adhere to the print bed reliably, and it tricks me about this. I've tried quite a few different surfaces and glues, temperatures, enclosures, dehumidifying techniques, and adhesion tricks like skirts and brims, and can print test small parts with 910, with some of these formulas. However, just when I think I've got all my settings perfect and try for that larger object that I really want to have, a really awful thing happens.It inevitably happens when I've observed things going well for quite a while. I see that I've got several layers printed and they look wonderful, and the print job just needs to pile up more of the same until the part is done. So I declare victory and walk away, expecting to return to a perfect part waiting on the print bed later in the day.For the second time now with Alloy 910, I've returned later to a very odd scene The printer job is done, the print bed is pushed forward into its delivery position, and the print head has retracted. My Lulzbot Mini has declared success.Yet there is nothing at all on the print bed, as if someone had stolen my part.Further inspection reveals that sometime after I left the printer, the entire part separated from the print bed and got stuck to the nozzle. The printer doesn't know this has happened so it keeps extruding Alloy 910, which then wraps itself around the nozzle and welds itself to both the metal and plastic of the print head. The resulting large blob of Alloy 910 completely closes off all access to the nozzle, with a very thick layer of extremely strong, tenacious material.I can see no way to remove the mess without destroying the now-inoperable print head. Alloy 910 is stronger than the stuff Lulzbot uses to form the print head assembly and it is very much welded to it. You can't chip it off, dissolve it, or melt it away. About all you can do is order another print head, for $250.The first time this happened I though it was something of a fluke. Now, with a second print head in the trash, I surrender. No more Alloy 910 for me.

This is by far the easiest material to print with I've tried other than maybe PLA. Got good quality strong prints with only a minimum of bed prep. Did not run into most of the problems normally associated with ABS or nylon.

I've bought 2 reels of this. Both came with the bag seal broken, and the filament was wet. The first prints out of the bag were full of steam holes. You have to dry it (oven or food dehydrator) before using!It also had some diameter inconsistencies, making printing detailed parts troublesome.However, once working out those problems this stuff prints great, and is very strong and flexible.

this stuff is great. it's super strong, relatively easy to print and has a great shiny appearance.

Like any other nylon filament it needs to be kept dry and dried before printing. Once you get that down it prints well. Layer adhesion is exceptional with 910, but like any nylon you need good surface prep or a proper material coating. Great material and produces very strong parts for functional uses.

No smell. Very easy to print with. I use my abs settings. 255* hot end and a 85* bed, coated with elmers purple glue. 30mms, .1 layer height.Prints very clean! And wow is it some strong stuff.