Bonide Products 7458 Concentrate Grass Killer, 8-Ounce

I always download the PDF version of the product labels, because I don't own a microscope to read the printed label. I went over the label and it was unclear to "use" or to "not use" a surfactant, so I played it safe and used it with "Bonide 097 Turbo Spreader Sticker" (one 8oz bottle will last me many seasons). The label also hid the mixing rate pretty well, but I managed to find "2 ounces per gallon of water" buried within. So with that mix ratio and the surfactant, I sprayed my grass-infested wildflower gardens. 2 weeks later the wildflowers are thriving and the grass was dead. The dead grass is a reddish-brown, and this will soon be hidden by the wildflowers. It had absolutely no damaging effect on the flowers, and (sadly) no damaging effect on a few areas populated by the evil Yellow Nutsedge. Overall I am very satisfied and will use this product again. The label is unclear if it is allowed to be used with sweet corn, so I did not try. Please leave a comment if you have used it with corn and relay your story.

Doesn't work on quackgrass. Don't waste your money. False hopes and dreams with false advertisement.

This works well, but it must be mixed with an agent to have it stick to the grass and be most effective. I tried a spray bottle from the dollar store first, but then I found a gallon spray jug at Menards. That's the way to go. This product works great, but it doesn't work overnight. It takes about 2 weeks for the grass to be killed off. The print on the directions is small, and it takes forever to find what the mix rate is. (I read the reviews here to see what others did.) It can be used in a vegetable garden, but you need to check the instructions for duration required between application and harvest. Most are 2-4 weeks depending on what you have planted.

Did not kill the surrounding spreading juniper. A bit pricey .

Update 2018 - This season I'm trying 4 oz. per gallon, which unfortunately is half the bottle. My experience last year was that it would shock the Bahia grass and cause a die back. However, the grass would still recover after about 3 weeks. Also, the instructions recommend applying no more than twice per year and I discovered that the grass does develop a tolerance for the herbicide with each application becoming less effective than the last. So, it appears that the best strategy is hit it hard the first time. The good news is that centipede does survive the herbicide.For severe infestations where you have areas that are totally Bahia or other unwanted grasses, the cheapest and most effective approach is probably to use glyphosate (generic Roundup) to kill everything quickly and allow the centipede to reclaim the area. Fertilize the centipede at the edges of the kill zone to encourage its runners to go forth and propagate. It's pointless to use an expensive selective herbicide on an area that has no centipede to salvage.Update 2017- I'm now recommending the 3 oz/gal concentration (table 8). While my first experience outlined below at 2 oz/gal does shock Bahia grass and cause it to die back, I've discovered it will begin to regrow in about 3 weeks and requiring a second application. Clearly the higher concentration is needed for serious infestations.Original post - The Scourge of the deep South, Bahia grass is virulent and tough to kill selectively or resorting to killing everything with RoundUp. With patience, this stuff will kill Bahia (and Bermuda), but not harm your Centipede lawn.1) Like most post-emergence herbicides, the Bahia grass has to be actively growing for the herbicide to work. It's useless (and a waste of money) to apply this during a dry spell that has parched your lawn, because the plants have shutdown all normal processes to conserve water. Nothing is absorbed by the grass, the applied herbicide is simply washed off during the next rain, and the grass grows on its merry way unaffected thereafter.For maximum effectiveness, the very best time to apply this product is the day following a soaking rain when three or more days of dry weather is forecast. That way the grass is greened up and actively growing, and the herbicide will not be washed off before the plant absorbs it.2) Per the label (Table 8), mix at 2 oz. per gallon in your sprayer. Be sure to add a teaspoon (or so) per gallon of some type of surfactant to ensure the spray doesn't simply bead up on the grass blades; an even coating is what you want. Dish soap (Dr. Bronner's is perfect or Dawn; others have perfumes but will do), Jetdry, or crop oil, if you have access to agricultural supplies, will all do the trick. The amount of surfactant used is not vital, just that there is some in the mix.3) Spray the Bahia grass after the morning dew has burned off in order to avoid diluting the spray when applied. Spray to the point where the grass is wet, but not running off. A gallon should only cover about 1000 sq. ft. or so (for example, a strip 10 ft wide x 100 ft long). If it goes further, then you're not applying it heavily enough.4) Don't cut the treated area for 6 or 7 days after application to give the grass time to absorb the herbicide. Cutting sooner will cut off the treated portion of the grass allowing it to recover.5) Bahia grass will stop growing by the 3rd day. Brown leaves will appear after the first week. Total kill is obvious after the second week.Notes: rain within 72 hours will reduce the effectiveness of your application, even if it's mixed at the proper concentration. Also, applying to wet grass, such as morning dew, will dilute the spray and reduce its effectiveness.This stuff works for me with good results in restoring a centipede lawn. However, since Bahia seed is everywhere (probably including from your neighbor's lawn) you'll have to occasionally spot treat during the year to prevent a large scale reinfestation.