Lisle 62300 MacPherson Strut Tool , Black

Long detailed review:This Lisle spring compressor is one of the safest models available because of the U-bolts that secure the spring to the tool. The compressors that just use pins to secure the spring or just have unsecured hooks are unsafe by comparison. Also like many Lisle tools, this is USA-made, so the material is strong (all steel) and the welds on the brackets are very good.It takes some work and time to get it mounted up, but no big deal. Follow the directions carefully to get the right/left stamped brackets oriented properly as shown in the pictures. There is also a clearer pdf file of the instructions on the Lisle website that has larger pictures (and you can magnify them in Adobe Reader). As another reviewer said, the easiest thing to to do is first mount the U-bolts and brackets to the fartherst coils apart you can and then insert the big bolts and washers and put the nuts on. You obviously want the nut to be at least moslty on the bolt before tightening; if not, rotate the U-bolts along the coil or move one coil up. The paint on the spring will get scraped where the U-bolts mount, but you can just touch that up later with a couple coats of Rustoleum paint. (The instructions talk about putting thick tape under the U-bolts if you want.)As it says on the front of the package, you probably can't use this compressor to install brand new springs because with just 10 inch bolts it may not have enough length on the bolt to completely release the tension on the old springs. You don't want to back off the nuts and have the spring just pop fully open - and have the nut and bolt and your wrench go flying in opposite directions (obviously dangerous to anyone/anything in the way). To clarify, for most springs you just use this tool to remove the already partially compressed spring from the strut shock and other parts. And then reinstall/decompress the spring with the new strut parts installed, with the spring secured by the (properly torqued) top mount nut. Some people have suggested using two Lisle tools (four bolts) positioned at 90 degrees, top and bottom, to be able to fully decompress the old springs and compress/install new springs (gradually tighteing and loosening all the bolts together). However, this is only possible if you have enough clearance between the bolts and brackets and the upper and lower strut parts. With smaller rear springs (on front wheel drive cars) you may be able to fully decompress the rear springs to install new ones.If you need new springs due to sag in the old ones it may be much better and safer just to have a repair shop do the work (they have big wall-mounted spring presses). But ask first if you can supply the strut parts, or if the the shop has to order them (much better for relations, since they make a small profit on parts too). If you supply the parts there usually is no shop warranty, which can be a big problem if there any issues immediately or later.Another option to using a compressor is to use fully assembled "quick struts" to replace your whole strut assembly. These are usually OK, but sometimes the manufacturers over-torque the top nut on assembly and either damage/crush the top strut bearing or just put too much load on it, causing premature wear and early failure (carefully inspect the bearing inside the spring it if you can see it for any cracks, and also see if you can rotate the assembly as it would when mounted the car - it should turn with some effort. If you can't turn it at all, the top nut may be over-torqued and the bearing races clamped down too tight on the ball or roller bearings (the top nut torque specs are in the manuals).Be aware however that to properly loosen or torque a strut nut, you may need some type of special tool or at least a crow foot wrench on the nut (while holding the shaft stationary with a regular socket, allen wrench or special shock socket). For the nut torque spec, see the repair manual for your car. Usually the spring has to be compressed to set the nut torque properly (see the manual). Obviously don't ever loosen a strut nut all the way without a spring compressor in place and compressing the spring (very dangerous otherwise, since everything will fly apart under the high spring pressure).One problem with quick struts is you have to somehow dispose of the old struts (that obviously contain compressed springs). Before buying you can ask auto parts stores or your regular mechanic if they will take your old assembled strut assemblies in their parts recycling bin. Putting them in the regular trash could be dangerous because there is a small chance the springs could be released and injure someone if the strut gets crushed by the compactor in the garbage truck (when the compactor reopens).When using a compressor, some people recommend securing the spring to a shop bench or other sturdy anchor with a chain or steel cable, just in case the tool slips or breaks somehow (unlikely, but always possible). If a spring goes flying, it can cause serious injury or even badly damage a wall (or anything else in the way). Also at least wear some decent work gloves and safety glasses for protection. (Some people also wear thick clothes and even a motorcycle helmet or other type of helmet with a face shield when compressing coil springs.)As the instructions say, be sure to lubricate the bolt threads well with some grease (or oil it each time you use it if you don't have grease). That will make turning the bolt much easier. The directions say you can use an impact wrench to alternately tighten the bolts, but I just use a ratchet, which probably decreases wear on the screw and threads (but it is much slower going).Unfortunately the compressor doesn't come in a case, just a clamshell plastic container with a carboard insert (instructions on the back). In order to not lose the small parts, the easiest thing is just to keep the bolts, brackets, washers, and U-bolts all assembled to the big bolts in a flat box or plastic case or bin, with the instructions in a plastic bag. I believe the bolt threads are "ACME screw threads" so the high-strength big nuts are probably not what you'll find in a hardware store. And you wouldn't want to replace the included Lisle high-strength hardware anyway wiith any ungraded hardware store parts, which could fail under the spring load. (Lisle might sell replacement parts if you can reach them through their website.)

Instructions could be MUCH better; but seems to make a dangerous job safer and easier. I used duct tape to protect the surface of the springs.

Don’t let the diagrams in the manual fool you, for McPherson struts you won’t have to compress the tool until both Ubolt slides are touching. I was scared to even attempt the traditional widow makers, even the ones w the dowel latch/lock. Just remember as always, lube lube lube!

Pro's - strong, impact tool compatible, secure. Using an impact tool made compressing the spring a snap. Have to make sure the threaded rods are straight and parallel to the shock/strut.Con's - Threaded Rod's not long enough wish they were a 1/2 - 1 inch longer. Had to install the hooks and rod guides on the coil, then install the threaded rod onto the two guides and push down on the rod guide to get the nut started. After that, the tool was was fine. Almost retuned the tool until I came up with the above method.

Does not do well with "replacing" coils. It even says "not intended for replacing coils". This tool is really for replacing struts using the same coils, because the tool is pretty short. However, I ended up buying two pairs because I like how safe the design is.I was just barely was able to compress VW passat coil springs with two of these to replace them. it took me three for my Volvo s60. So...if you drive a truck or something and you're trying to replace your coil springs, these probably won't work or you'll need to use at least two pairs. You can probably get away with changing struts if you plan on keeping your old coils.As far as the actual usage of the tool, they work very well and feel very safe. Very effective strut replacement tool. Would be nice if they came with extra nuts

Value for money 3 stars because it can only extend to 7.5 inches. If you want the safety aspect of this setup for longer coil springs you'll likely use two sets for the same job.Safety features are definitely 5 star rated. The brackets and all hardware included are top notch. The welds are solid and the all thread is 3/4 thick.Ease of use is 4 stars because other gator jaw designs use just one bolt to tighten the whole assembly. Bring a crescent wrench or a 1 inch wrench as well as a 1 inch socket.As always lubricate the threads before each use. Tighten each bolt evenly to the best of your ability and yes these are rated for an impact wrench.

I have been using a set of these occasionally in my home workshop for about two decades now. You can buy replacement nuts for them if the nut gets lost or worn, but after many uses I decided to buy a new set as mine was getting noticeably worn.I like the very simple and secure way the u-bolts attach to the spring being compressed. Nothing can slip and get away from you, unlike some of the more common "hook-type" units on the market.Do lubricate the heavy lead screws and nuts with gear oil or chassis grease before each use as this will both make it easier to use and prolong the life of the big screw and nut. These are cut with an uncommon "acme thread" which is used for very heavy duty applications and is unlike the hardware you normally see.Finally, it is great to buy a tool twice 20 years apart and find that the new one appears to be exactly the same as the old one except for wear. Usually you see where compromises have been made to reduce production costs, but not with these.

Good

Ya la utilicé una ocasión y funcionó. Cumple su cometido

Una herramienta resistente, fácil de usar, y segura!!!!!!