OsmoWooden Door Oil - 3060 Satin Clear -1 Litre

I recently purchased this item, and have been using it for [quite some time. Overall, I am quite satisfied with my purchase. Here are my thoughts:Pros:Quality: The build quality is excellent. It feels sturdy and well-made.Performance: It performs as advertised.Design: The design is sleek and modern.Ease of Use: It’s very user-friendly. I had no trouble setting it up and using it right away.

This is my first time using this product and I am very impressed.used on oak veneer doors and frames. Goes on easily. I use a sponge stuffed in a latex glove as a pad which I wrapped in a cloth, so the sponge does not absord the oil. I Tipped small amount of oil into a clean 1litre ice cream tub.. and rubbed with the grain.. Nice stuff, goes on evenly, touch dry in a few hours , re coat in 24 hours. The pictures of my new bifold door.. when I wad halfway through oiling... so you can see the before and after.. also the B&Q oak veneer doorframe came out lovely too.. covers quickly.. really nice, rich grain enhanced, lovely honey colour. a little goes a long way.I will use this on all the other oak veneer doors, I just bought.Highly recommended. ☆☆☆☆☆

Easy to apply, made a fantastic job of dealing the wooden internal doors but not changing their colour.

This Oil is really brilliant, used it on my Oak Veneered doors and my Elm staircase. Very hard wearing and lasts for years. I found you need two coats for a great finish.

Have new Howdens oak doors fitted throughout the house and this is recommended to be used on the doors straight away. The product is easy to apply, with a good paintbrush, and covers the doors well. Although I'm not getting the expected coverage out of the tin, so may have to buy more. The product gives the doors a really nice colour and a very slight sheen and also brings out the grain of the wood more. Hopefully this shows up in the pictures. The effect is very nice and I'm pleased with the result. Paintbrushes are easy to clean with the usual paintbrush cleaners you can buy - I use a "clean spirit" on my brushes.

Was scared about ping new oak doors but went on like a dream. Glad I read reviews about the smell so did over a weekend with doors and windows open. Smell did linger for a week or so but finish is great and I'd choose over paint any day.

I've got a Georgian house with nine internal doors, all panelled, the doors themselves are over 100 years old. I wanted nice looking doors, not varnished nor painted, so oiled was the way to go. I don't have a clue what the doors were treated with in the past, probably anything from lard oil to coloured polish. Osmo says it's for 'untreated timber'; fat chance of that!. So I scrubbed the doors with white spirit and wire wool, did a few experiments, and I was ready for the off.I bought a few oils, including a French make of wax oil, Danish oil, and Osmo. On test pieces the Osmo seemed to give me the look that I wanted, so I went with that.Very happy with the results; the two doors that I have done so far do not look 'wet' or 'varinshed', or even particularly shiny. They look as if they've been polished every day for the last 100 years, which they haven't, but which was what I wanted.I discovered a few things along the way:1) For ease of working I shook the tin well and decanted some into a 1/2 pint beer mug. What I noticed from this (being glass) was how quickly this stuff settles out. I think maybe the people that have had problems have shaken it once and assumed it will stay mixed for hours. It won't! it settles really quickly, so if using a beer mug have an old spoon to hand and keep it stirred!2) A little goes a long way. (Just as well, given the price!). half of a half pint beer mug (120ml ish)was enough to do both sides of a large panelled door. It has to go on REALLY thinly, you just want a nice sheen on the first coat, nothing more.3) Following on from 2. This looks like varnish and it goes on like varnish, but it isn't. Its polish in a carrier medium. The first coat, going on thinly, will largely be absorbed by the pores of the wood. This will be a base for subsequent coats that will not absorb as much. Be prepared, when the first coat dries, for it not to look that great. The sheen will come with the second coat.4) Take your time; do not put a big dollop on and spread it out. You can get away with this with varnish but this, as I say, is polish. Load the tip of the brush lightly and do small areas. It is actually quite time consuming.5) On the tin it says leave 24 hrs between coats. I would say at least that, 48 hrs is better. Do not try to recoat immediately it is dry, because although it feels dry it is not yet cured. A further coat before 24 hrs will destabilise the uncured coat below it. You need to build up layers of polish, each of which has properly cured before the next layer is applied.6) Brushes. I used ordinary soft BRISTLE brushes soaked overnight in hair conditioner then dried. This was a tip from a retired decorator who used it for varnishing and it worked brilliantly.7) I'm not too sure about sanding between coats. I gave it a quick once over with 000 grade steel wool between coats. That worked for me.This is a brilliant product, probably the best for waxing doors, but you really have to take your time on it and give it the full curing time.

Used to protect a couple of interior Oak doors. We were torn between the raw or clear satin oil. Chose the satin and its perfect. It does tint the wood, but it's not overly orange, unlike some other oils and stains. A little bit also goes a very long way. I guess a litre would probably be plenty enough to apply two coats to all the doors in the house.