🎤 Strum in Silence, Shine in Sound!
The Electric Classical Guitar is a versatile instrument designed for modern musicians. With its mahogany body and rosewood fretboard, it features built-in Delay and Reverb effects, headphone compatibility for silent practice, and an Aux in plug for playing along with tracks. Perfect for travel, it comes with a gig bag and is powered by a 9V battery, making it ideal for both home and on-the-go musicians.
N**E
Great hybrid guita! Crazy fun! Highly recommend!
Great hybrid guitar. Perfect for travel, when you just wanna play quietly, or put it through an amp for cool classical tones to hard rock. The tone/reverb/delaye controls are great everything works perfectly.The truss rod is smooth and allows the neck be adjusted easily to the string height you prefer. Neck is straight, fingerboard in very nice. Neck shape is very comfortable tp play (thin and wide). I have short fat fingers and have no issues playing this easily.Just buy it..It is crazy cool!
F**E
Solid bones. Needs a little fine tuning. (Updated)
I've been playing guitar for 50 years and playing classical on/off for 40+. I play traditional classical style, using nails and don't play flamenco style. My setup assumes the notes ring long and clear -- eg; no buzzes - forced or accidental.I bought this guitar primarily as a silent practice guitar (had only minimal intentions/expectations about using onboard amp). I have enough experience taking care of minor setup/component issues to work my way through most guitar-related problems, so I gave it a go, My end assessment of the guitar is: it is good, minus a few caveats and would buy it again. I will provide very specific info uncovered in my first 24 hours with it below:As another reviewer mentioned, is essentially laid out like a std classical guitar. I measured a few things and confirm that the dimension offered by another reviewer match. The frets were overall remarkably well prepped. These appear to be medium frets and they were mostly flat, level and well polished. I did a couple that protruded slightly and treated those successfully. Also, I did a preventative final polish using 8000, 12000 grit micro mesh pads for ultimate smoothness and playability. As far as rough fret ends another reviewer mentioned, This situation occurs because the rosewood is very dry. I had to treat my fingerboard with 4-5 treatments of lemon oil which helped the wood expand modestly and rehydrate. I then did a gentle smoothing with a micro mesh pad on the sides / fret ends to smooth them a bit more. After acclimating for a day they are WAY better now. If you experience the same problem, OIL THE BOARD before filing or sanding. That will probably take care of 80% of the problem. Use a mineral-baesed (non-organic) oil. Even if you don't notice great results right away, come back a day or two later and oil it again.Another poster mentioned the guitar is resonant. I can confirm it is! Which was a nice surprise. The guitar I can confirm has bone saddle ( I have another blank saddle on hand to tap and compare taps/drop sounds). The nut might also be bone, but I couldn't / didn't want to try to remove it, so confirmation is tenuous. The truss rod is probably unnecessary, but mine does work ok. The guitar came with slightly detuned strings and a lot of relief adjusted via the truss rod. I set it dead flat (as a classical neck is supposed to be). And that made it feel much more like a classical. The saddle protrudes from the bridge about 8/64" on the treble side, and about 12/64" on the bass side. My current setup has bottom of string-to top of fret distance of about 0.10" at 12th fret pretty much across all the strings (a new saddle my get installed to raise/lower high and low sides as appropriate. Even with a maxxed out truss rod adjustment, the neck still has about 0.005" of relief at the 8th fret (using the capo @ 1st fret and fretted 17 fret method). There is enough of a loose fit that the saddle comes out easily if guitar is held upside down -- the greatest play is in the fingerboard direction (wobbly to/from headstock for example).As advertised, this guitar has a UST (Under Saddle Transducer -- a piezo wire) fitted underneath the saddle. I have never been a fan of these, but after putting in a new battery and adjusting controls to taste, I was able to get to useful classical tones. I had volume: very low, tone: dead center, reverb and delay set to min or very near min. and played through cheap headpones. I was impressed. I was thinking of yanking the piezo out initially, but have since realized I can live with the setup/electronics as they are.Fingerboard width at upper end is 52mm. String spacing at upper end is 48mm. String space at saddle is 57mm.My real concerns, suggestions for improvement or criticisms are these:The issue with the tuners is real. Essentially, the tuner mount holes are drilled at a slight angle and that allows for the far end of the barrel of the tuner not to seat properly in the holes drilled in the center part of the headstock. Only one tuner (the High E) has this problem, and although it works as it is, I already have a new set of tuners which I *hope* will solve the problem. For those interested, the barrel of the tuner must be at least 1.25" long to reach the hole drilled in the center of the headstock. Another item is I believe the guitar would be a more natural fit, and more ergonomically friendly to have the steel body supports shaped like a regular classical guitar (the lower side could have a 'cutaway' contour to be more friendly to modern/contemporary players of course).I did receive the gig bag which fits fine. And my guitar came with a truss rod wrench and a short 1/8-1/8" stereo cable for connecting to other devices -- a nice surprise. Oh, a few other misc points in conclusion.I took the stock strings off immediately and replaced them with the same brand / type as I use on my other classical guirars (LaBella 2001 LT). These were a HUGE improvement. For those that may use string beads, tie beads, etc (whatever you wish to call them..) the upper end of the fretboard does have a tie block and is drilled as 6 hole and IS FLAT -- eg; you should be able to use tie beads if desired instead of having to tie strings at the upper end.I did take a few pics and if I can figure out to how edit this review later, I intend to include those and hope to add a sound/video sample as well. Potential buyers that want to use this as a real classical guitar, need to hear it used in that way. I hope to help fill that void.The guitar was packaged in the gig bag, which was in protective soft wrap, which itself was in a factory box and all that was in a larger container Amazon box. It arrived 100% a-ok.I hope this helps someone wanting to know more about this guitar.Update: Since writing that initial review, I discoverd something that seriously undermines it's utitily (for me, at least). If you examine the 2nd photo from the top, and then mouse-over (zoom in). Look closely at the trajectory of the strings from saddle to it's tuner barrel. 3 or 4 of the strings come in contact with the body of the headstock, or have to go 'over' the recesses in the bridge. Any deflection from a straight point-to-point line (top of saddle to tuner barrel) increases tension on a string. In my case, the high E, G, D and low E strings all exhibited this -- and the net effect is that even with a low tension set of strings (I mention above) and standard tuning, the strings feel much stiffer and uncomfortable to play.The fix is to modify the headstock and bridge to allow each string a 'path' from top of saddle to it's tuner barrel in a straight uninterrupted manner. The overall increase in string tension is noticeable and makes it uncomfortable to play, especially with right hand. I think it's ok not to expect it sound like a classical guitar, but it doesn't even fell like a classical guitar. Don't buy it with the expectation that this will get you there -- it won't. It's close, and with a few design changes could be a great one, but the designers really blew it with respecct to the headstock/tuners/string geometry.After about 1 week with guitar, I will add more info.1. The frets were level and generally, finely polished, but the profile was that of a gradual speed bump -- they need to be crowned (and probably polished) to play well and sound good.2. Check every screw to make sure each is seated properly. On mine, one of the screws that holds the body bar mount was loose and resonating with the open D string in a most ugly manner. It took some detective work to figure it out. Others were just barely seated (this is not the fault of bad workmanship most likely but of drying of the wood during shipping/storage).3. I ended up taking a flat file to the lower recesses of 'headstock' to remove material so that the strings have a clear (uninterrupted) path from the saddle to the barrel of each tuner. It might look cheesy, but fine classical builders incorporate this design in many guitars. It's not curved, but 'ramped' from bridge to recesses where tuners are.4. I inverted the tuners. They are now upward-pointing and not downward faced. This was easily done (one tuner rubs slightly against the headstock body adjacent to the button of the 'A' string tuner.5. To solve the wobbly saddle, I cut small pieces from a depth gauge tab (0.017") and inserted down into the rout to fill the gap between saddle and bridge recess.I actually like this guitar better now, it could be a great one, but it's a shame the factory doesn't put a little more effort into proactively circumventing potential problems and revisiting the design to work just a bit better.Last (I hope!) Update:I included a pic of the area incl. bridge+saddle and headstock. I did several mods in this area alone and I want to list them individually.1. I inverted the tuners (downward buttons are now upward facing).2. I filed the string 'channels' in the wooden bridge deeper, so strings had a straight trajectory to the tuner.3. I shortended the bridge by sanding the back side (the side that faces the tuners. That helps allow a near perfect straight line for each string from saddle to it's tuner going through it's string 'channel' on the back side of the bridge.4. I filed the lower portion of the recess of the headstock (the rounded portion below tuners for High E and Low E are). It is now ramped so that strings can go straight from saddle to tuners unimpeded by bridge or headstock (well, all but G and D strings -- the fix for those will require more work and will be a later project).5. I replaced the saddle with a slightly higher one. The stock saddle did not provide enough break angle to allow the high E string to sound clearly (it was always buzzy and unclear sounding). The higher saddle makes it slightly more effort to play, but the better sound is worth it.Now, I LOVE this guitar. It plays and sounds as close to a classical as it can get. Is it going to get the sounds of a high end acoustic classical guitar? Nope, never. It will serve it's function as a quiet practice instrument that sounds close enough to be useful to me.Also, the string geometry at the tie block end could benefit from having the fingerboard 'end' (past the nut) angle down slightly so the strings don't have to ride up 'over' that to traverse down to the hole in the tie block. I am planning to use string beads (aka 'tie beads') to help maximize break angle at the tie end.I post these comments in such detail so that: other interested shoppers can be fully informed about needed upgrades / fixes before they buy, and also, so that the people selling these can get word back to the manufacturer as to how to refine and better design the guitar. A few design changes it could be a really great guitar for reasonable cost.
K**R
NOT BAD FOR THE MONEY!
This is a great little instrument for someone wanting or needing a "classical nylon string neck-width" guitar. In my case, I've developed arthritis problems in my hands along with having large hands which makes it almost impossible to fret cleanly. To remedy this, I am switching over to instruments with wider string spacing. Even though I did give 5 stars for "value for the money", the guitar I received did require work. There were some high frets which had to be leveled and re-crowned plus fret ends trimmed and dressed. Wasn't a deal breaker for me because I'm able to do the repairs myself. Here are a few specs that were not included by the seller.Total length including strap button is 38 11/16".Lower bout width = 13". Waist = 7 3/8". Upper bout = 9". Body length = 16 1/4".Neck thickness at 1st fret = 3/4" and 7/8" at 12th fret giving a shallow "C" shape.Tuning machines hold tune on mine so are serviceable, but changing to better ones is problematic.The string barrels for the 3rd and 4th strings angle up towards top of headstock slightly and thebarrels are slightly smaller in diameter than standard. Ratio is 15:1Total weight of the guitar I received was only 5 pounds, 7 oz.As stated in the description, the on-board effects for Delay must be used in conjunction with the Reverb (?) control knob. The Reverb seems to work by itself, but only if the Delay knob is turned all the way off.It was helpful to find that, if the "Power Switch" is in the Off position, OR..... if the battery dies, the pickup still works when connected to an external amp using a standard 1/4" cable. However........ the guitar Volume control does not work in these conditions so must be controlled externally. (Handy to know if playing on stage though as I plan to.)The included Gig bag is better than I've seen at this price point and has more padding and even a Neck cradle with securing strap!And so.... I do recommend this instrument and Fojill for making these available, with the understanding that they are not perfect, but very good for the price.
K**R
Workable, but don’t expect classical sounds in your ear
The fit and finish on this is what is expect for a $300 guitar from china. Passable, but not great by any stretch. The frets are poorly finished, fretboard is open grain, and fret ends are rough, and the action on the treble strings is way too high.I could learn to live with, or fix, those issues easily. The neck is generally nice, shaped well and the truss rod works.The one issue here that ultimately made me return the guitar - the sound through the headphones. If I’m buying a wide neck silent classical guitar, I’m probably going to use it to play classical music, not metal or blues. The output to headphones or amp is pure strat in sound. Distorted, high gain. That is something that can’t be fixed, so I ultimately had to box it up and return. Sad really.
J**D
Send me my gigbag!!!
I was pleased that it arrived in perfect shape and played beautifully! I only gave it 4 of the 5 stars because the padded fojill gig bag did not arrive with the guitar like the 2 other Fojills I had purchased previously! The guitar arrived in perfect condition but was missing its padded gigbag, which made me have to call Amazon to complain! Still Love the guitar though, all three with different finishes that I have purchased
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