2x2 LED Panel Light,1Pack, 4400 Lumens,5000K Daylight White Color 2x2 LED Troffer Panel Light,0-10V Dimmable 2x2 LED Light Fixture,120-277v 2x2 LED Drop Ceiling Light Fixture.

I've been wanting to do this for years - finally did it and could not be more pleased,I have a growing number of Lutron Caseta switches throughout our home (another stellar product: they just WORK - as advertised and with no fuss) - and thus I wanted a dimmable LED replacement for the two old two-tube-by-four-feet-long fluorescent fixtures that have been rather 'dingily" illuminating our garage from a height of 11 feet. One of the new type of dimmable LED surface-mount flat panels sounded good - but I knew not all will communicate with the Lutron Caseta dimmer switches. I would specifically need a 'Triac'-type dimmable fixture (rather than the "0-10V" type).This panel looked like just the ticket, and as an extra bonus featured selectable (and easily changeable) color temperatures of 3000K (warm white) / 4000K (neutral white) / 5000K (bright / close-to-daylight white). It was thin, had a clean-looking narrow black margin, did not require any additional framing pieces, and the price for a pair was excellent. I ordered.The two panels came in perfect condition, well-protected by a cardboard + Styrofoam + four plastic 'corners' interior protective setup. After unwrapping, I immediately tried them by plugging the white (neutral) lead into the wide receptacle on a polarized wall outlet - and the black (hot) lead into the narrow side, to make sure they were working. Wham! What a flood of light - just amazing.Assemble your tools: screwdrivers, drill, drill bits (1/2" and 1/4" [or 7/32" for a snugger fit to the screw-in anchors holding the safety wires]), pencil / Sharpie / or scratch awl to mark holes - using the supplied cardboard template, and a phillips bit for your drill to run the (4" long) corner screws most of the way in, etc.For this installation you will most likely want to avoid ceiling penetrations where there are studs. If your garage door opener power outlet is conveniently placed nearby, so that you can tell where a stud is, you may not need a stud finder, but otherwise that would be handy. Are you installing a pair of these panels and want them to line up and be square to the garage walls? I found a laser level useful for that - but by no means essential (OK, I have a tiled garage floor, so simply aligning the laser with one of the grout lines made this trivially easy). Just do not assume that your existing fixtures were squared and lined up with each other by the builder: mine sure weren't.On to the instructions. Hmm... Not so great - in that it seemed to me a number of steps had been left out - and that I would need to fill in some blanks. More in a moment, but first things first: After opening the breaker (and opening the garage door so you can see!), remove the two old fixtures (take out the tubes, remove a few screws, and unscrew the wire nuts to free the fixture wiring) - it takes just a few minutes.As mentioned, my garage has 11+ foot high ceilings. Fortunately I have a sturdy 10' step ladder, which eased matters considerably. The panels are not heavy (probably just two or three pounds each) - but they are 2 x 4 feet, so can a bit awkward to handle: having a ladder that allows you to get right up close to the ceiling is a real benefit.Again, mine is a drywall ceiling, so I looked over that section of the sheet - which also has "instructions" for installing onto wood or concrete surfaces. Here is what I would suggest as the way to proceed (and here I am assuming you are simply replacing a couple of existing fixtures).1. Lay the panel on a countertop 'lighting-side-down' and have in hand the plastic envelopes with screws, anchors, picture-wire "safety-wires," etc. For each panel to be installed on a drywall ceiling you will need: (1) two anchors with two of the shorter screws (you will NOT need the other four anchors with their longer screws); (2) the two "safety wires" / "hanging ropes"; (3) the four long (~ 4") machine screws with their mating 'wing nut' / butterfly expandable anchors; (4) the cardboard template with two adhesive strips in place (to attach the template to the ceiling temporarily while marking holes for the screws); (5) [maybe] the three small wire nuts - but only if you want to replace the existing ones used to attach wiring on your prior fixture; (6) the four little silicone "caps" to cover the four rim holes through which you will insert the screws / wing nuts (this done after installation has been completed).Now, while on the countertop, actually install the four long screws and attach to each its wing nut (the wing nuts, of course, on the side of the panel with the LED top shield and electrical wiring). This will ease hanging the fixture when you are up on the ladder with the panel. The idea here is that you will, when up on the ladder with the panel later, simply push the spring-loaded butterfly / wing nuts through four corner-holes you will drill in the ceiling - for securing the fixture flat against the ceiling.Also while on the countertop (and "counter" to the instructions!), I would advise fastening the clip-ends of the two safety wires to the little triangular clips found on one of the 'long sides' of the fixture top. I know the "instructions" say to first connect the 'eyelet' end of these wires to the ceiling (after screwing in the anchors and then running a screw through the eyelet and into the ceiling anchor) - but I found that did not work for me. When up on the ladder and while manipulating the panel, I found that, with one hand holding the panel and trying with the other to fasten the safety-wire clips to those movable little triangles, it was simply impossible to do this successfully. YMMV, but I found it much easier to do the safety wire attachment to the panel frame when you have both hands free to hold the little triangle in place with one hand - while squeezing the clip on the safety wire with the other hand - something possible only when the panel is sitting on the counter.Now take the cardboard template up on the ladder and, firmly pressing it to the ceiling behind the locations where you placed the double-sided tape. position it as desired and mark the location of the six holes on the ceiling (the four corners are for holding the fixture itself, while the other two are for placing the anchors and attaching the hanging / safety wires. Again, I found the laser level a big help, since it illuminated a crisply defined line on the ceiling that I knew to be square - and helped me place the template such that two of the four 'corner holes' along one of the long edges - fell exactly on the laser line.With this done, remove the template and drill each of the six holes with your 1/4" (or 7/32") bit. Then insert your 1/2" bit and drill out the four corner 'pilot' holes. Using a No. 2 phillips screwdriver, tightly screw in the two anchors into the two smaller holes and - just finger-tight - insert the two shorter screws into those anchors. These two anchors with their screws should be placed on the 'away-from-you' side of the fixture (away from you as you come up the ladder with the panel).At this point I found it helpful to have a small empty cardboard box (something that can sit on top of the - in my case 10' high - ladder) to allow placement of the panel on this box in such a way as to be flat and maybe 8+" off the ceiling. This will allow you to rest the panel temporarily while you carefully unscrew each of the finger-tight screws just mentioned above - and then re-insert them through the eyelets at the other end of the safety wires you clipped earlier to the panel frame. Again, screw in the two screws finger tight into their anchors - and then continue to tighten these screws all the way home with your No. 2 phillips driver (you did remember to bring that up the ladder with you, right?).You can now manipulate the panel as required so as to attach the panel wiring to house power (white to white, black to black, ground to ground). To ensure the fixture would mount tight against the ceiling, I found it necessary in my case to push the house wiring and wire nuts back through the hole in the ceiling and thus out of the way as I ran the long corner screws all the way home. (You could use a little drywall / keyhole hand saw to enlarge the ceiling hole slightly if necessary to accomplish this). Then guide the four corner screws with their butterfly wing nuts through the four half-inch-diameter ceiling holes you drilled earlier - all of which you can now safely do without any danger of the fixture dropping to the floor.You're almost there. Making sure the wing nuts have seated properly above the top of the ceiling drywall, now run the four screws most of the way home using your drill. I suggest holding the frame so as to put a bit of downward tension on the screw head - to ensure the wing nut will not simply "spin" as you turn the screws.Once the head of the screw has disappeared into the cavity in the frame between its two "u-shaped" walls, it's time for you to take your No. 2 phillips driver to run these four corner screws all the way home and fairly snug. At this point insert one of the little cosmetic silicone "caps" in each of the four holes - and you've completed the installation.Reset the breaker and be amazed. It's a LOT of lumens! If you are installing two, even more amazing. I now installed my Lutron Caseta switch in the wall and Voila! - perfect seamless dimming with no buzzing, humming, or odd cutoffs: fabulous!To experiment with the three colors of light available, it's duck soup. Just turn off the lights and, within five seconds turn them on again. Each time you do this he fixture will successively cycle through the three different shades of white. Once you are satisfied, just make sure you allow more than five seconds to elapse after turning off - before turning on the lights again. The fixture will memorize the last color and always turn on with that color of white.To summarize, thus far I am highly pleased: these panels work well, dim seamlessly, put out LOTS of light - in three colors of white, and are fairly priced.Enjoy!

The install is easy. The lights are bright. High quality, look sharp. Simple design, great performance. Look real sharp.

This is a fantastic light! It is as easy to install as other say. Measure twice drill once… Or four times… Took me a little bit to get that right.The light itself has some small LED grid marks showing on the middle of the panel. It doesn’t bug me, but as others mentioned it’s not completely 100% even.It would’ve been awesome if they included a paper template for drilling. Something I could tape up and drill through and then rip down to install.The dimming functionality works great on my shitty dimmer.The color change functionality is super easy and a great feature that I’ve never heard of until I got this light. Really impressed with it.

easy to install

I HATE these lights.I cannot speak on the lifespan of these LEDs, but I can tell you, installation sucked. I’m handy around the house and know that you can use a hammer and duct tape to fix most plumbing problems. This isn’t my first rodeo.Let’s start at the beginning; I bought a six pack of Aphyni 2x4 surface mount panel lights for $289.99, so that breaks down to $48.33 per light. Pretty good deal, right? I should have bought a six pack of beer instead.The lights arrived without any damage, and everything came in one box, so things started off fine as most horror stories do. I was excited to replace my two single lights in my garage with four 2x4 panel lights. I read the instructions, prepared my workspace, put on my radio, and got to work.I used a laser level to get a straight line from light to light so everything will look even and square because I’m a professional D.I.Y.er. Things were going fine but then the trouble soon began.ISSUE 1: I noticed right away the supplied cardboard template isn’t the same length as the light (see image 1,) but no big deal, I’m semi-pro, I can use math and a tape measure. The pilot hole locations are marked on the template, and the center is cut out to line up with the outlet box for convenience, how nice! I climb my happy ass up a ladder and use the supplied double-sided sticky tape to adhere the too-short template to the ceiling in my garage. It fell off.ISSUE 2: Since they only supplied me with two pieces of tape (yes, TWO) I get one attempt. How am I to use the template for the other three lights with only enough tape for one application? I’ll solve that problem later. It’s now later. I used my own tape to adhere the template to the ceiling, but again, it fell off. I resorted to using my staple gun to hold the template to the ceiling (image 2.) I used the pre-drill markings on the supplied template to drill my holes. I then pulled off the template, removed the staples and inserted the anchors. Now it’s time to hang the light.You are to hang the lights like a swinging sign using the supplied cables (image 3.) While the light is hanging perpendicular, you make your wire connections. I didn’t mind this and thought it was a good idea. Until….ISSUE 3: You will need help. Unless you have four arms, a partner needs to hold the light in place while you drive in the mounting hardware. They give you enough supplies to hang your light in a few different ways, which is nice, so I got that going for me.ISSUE 4: This is where foul language comes into play. AFTER adapting to a too-short template, AFTER drilling holes in the ceiling and inserting anchors, AFTER making my wire connections, AFTER screwing in the first of four screws, you quickly realize THE DAMN TEMPLATE DOES NOT LINE UP WITH THE HOLES IN THE LIGHT (image 4.) That can’t be right, can it? Did I do something wrong? No. It just doesn’t line up. What kind of cruelty is this?ISSUE 5: I will adapt again, because like I said, I’m semi-pro. I cut up the box the lights came in and created my own template. Since they did not supply enough tape, I’m now angry and used my stapler to keep the homemade cardboard template in place so I can RE-predrill holes. I hate these lights so much.ISSUE 6: Once the holes and anchors are in the correct position, I have my helper hold the light in place so I can screw it in. The metal frame is so thin if you drill too hard and too fast (that’s what she said) it goes right through the frame. @*!%@!So, being semi-pro, I back the screw out to deal with the larger hole in the frame from the screw head. What to do? What to do? I use a fender washer to make it work (image 5.) It looks like garbage and NOT semi-pro but I’m so mad at this point I just don’t care. At least they illuminate.After struggling with four of these lights, I hope they last. Next time, if there is a next time, I will buy lights that have a frame to attach to the ceiling first, then place the light on the frame, like hanging a microwave. That would be much easier to work with.As the saying goes, you get what you pay for. If you need me, I’ll be drinking a six-pack looking up at my lights of shame. I hate these lights.

3 different white light intensities turn on for first lighting effect then off & on again for 2nd lighting effect then off & on again for 3rd lighting effect. Have mounted this on our kitchen ceiling & the results are great.

They are bright and light to handle and dimmable via a switch.