Quality ChemicalOxy-Gone Rust Remover and Metal Treatment/Rust Repair/Prepares surfaces for painting / 1 gallon (128 oz.)

Great price, Great product

I bought a house built in 1915. I have no clue how old this porch roof was but it has been neglected for so long. They replaced the main roof but never touched this. I needed to seal it but first needed to get rid of the rust. This product…it’s the real deal. I cleaned the roof with tsp prior and then put the Oxy-Gone in a pump sprayer. Barley used any. Took about 5 minutes to spray the roof. I went back after 20-30 minutes to look and what a huge difference! Great product. My dad would have loved to have this for his farm equipment.

Found original Osphro, after ordering at local Ace hardware for less.

This product performed as advertised. Highly recommend using a respirator.

I'm not entirely satisfied with this product, but it does remove rust as it claims so I can't fault the product too much in that regard. It just isn't very general purpose or novice-friendly it seems. And it doesn't seem to be exactly like Ospho, which it claims similarity to. The color of the liquid is very close though.Oxygone certainly removes the rust, but Oxygone does not work well when wiped onto a surface. It leaves a hard, cruddy foam -- as if it had or were some kind of waxy soap -- that is more troublesome to physically remove than the actual rust. This foam dries sticky and will glue the object in place. It's not overly hard but if you are drying it outside, then stones, grass and dirt alike will glue themselves to the object and become difficult to very difficult to remove. The stains this leaves in untreated brick I have not been able to remove, so beware.Oxygone leaves the same rather nasty, stained, white blotched surface all over the final grey or black finish when applied to iron as well. Even when objects are immersed totally and come out with an nice, pretty and even surface finish, the treated iron seems to react chemically with either the humidity or the air itself and leave these white blotches. I can't emphasize enough how unsightly the staining is. It's similar efflorescence in concrete.Worse, brushed onto a round surface the solution drips and hardens in place, leaving a nasty, crusty residue that is tedious and difficult to remove. No amount of manual wire brushing seems to remove the drip marks entirely and the surface doesn't really get back to the original predrip state, though most of the crust does come off.I cannot recommend Oxygone at all as a rust remover for moving parts. The grey steel it leaves seems to be some sort of bonded sediment as it leaves an unsmooth, pebbly surface and some of the mechanical parts that I have immersed into the Oxygone solution have totally seized up and stopped working. Mind you the tools I soaked in it only had slight surface rust and still worked mostly fine. Applying WD-40 and similar products doesn't seem to fix the build-up problem as it does when they are seized up with rust so buyer beware. If you have rusty mechanical parts this can actually make the problem worse. I tried to apply it to a chrome plated barbell as well as a brass colored household lock on the backyard gate and it seems to have leached out some coppery green substance from both of these. The lock I don't know if it still works. Both the lock and the chrome barbell looks worse than before they started though.Oxygone appears to have absolutely no rust protective or preventative properties to it at all. It does say it is primarily intended as a surface prep for painting, but it bills itself as an Ospho alternative, and I have heard of guys using Ospho to protect iron from rusting, so I don't know if there is something very different in the formulas, or if I simply misunderstood something along the way. Regardless, objects treated with Oxygone also rust again very quickly. This varies on the quality of steel I think. A machete I treated is already rusting over again after a handful of days but my other hand tools are holding up a little bit better.Oxygone also has a certain smell to it. Like rotting eggs. It's actually not too bad in my opinion -- it's relatively faint -- but you probably shouldn't keep an open container of the stuff in the garage or house. I had a 5 gallon bucket of Oxygone (just 1 gallon of liquid though) filled with tools reposing in it on the back patio and my family member complained bitterly about it. I still don't think it was that bad but regardless, this product isn't exactly rose water. Eggy-farts are the words that come to mind. Though I'm glad that it wasn't immediately nauseating like turpentine or some house-paints, or many other chemicals. I didn't feel that the vapors were immediately going to kill me, but that was using it outdoors so do still have some caution using it in confined spaces. The label says the vapors can be harmful but I think that mostly applies to spraying the stuff. This stuff itches and burns on skin contact -- at least after a while anyway -- and getting it in your eye or breathing in the droplets would probably be excruciatingly painful. I wore safety glasses using this stuff but it doesn't really seem to splash as much as I expected.Oxygone definitely burns through nitrile gloves. I wore through several pairs of the gloves, working with this stuff. Not that it burned actual visible holes into them, but it does seem to burn pores into the material and left me with a kind of burning itching sensation. It went away after a while but do be aware of that. About 15 minutes the gloves last and they can't be reused when dry. The blue gloves nitrile gloves I used turned greenish, and when I tried to use them a second time the next day the pores were still open and the Oxygone seeped right through them. I don't know how resistant other types of plastic gloves are but nitrile are a poor choice for working with Oxygone.Overall, this is not an especially convenient rust remover.Oxygone seems to work best if you can immerse the rusty object in the green liquid and let it repose there for a few hours. The liquid does noticeably evaporate over time, so if the object is very rusty you should knock of most of the loose surface rust so you aren't wasting liquid. Covering the container and keeping it out of the sun seems to help. When you remove the rusty object it will have a light black surface sediment that needs to be wiped off. After that you should be left with grey steel. But some steels do seem to change to black underneath though. A barbell and a sledgehammer that I happen to own both came out totally black and not grey. Everything else, including the other hammers I own did turn grey though.For simple hand-tools Oxygone works beautifully. I left some hammers to sit in the solution and they all came out great. This product doesn't really seem to attack or discolor wood or common polymer tool handles, plastic buckets, or kitchen containers at all. It does lift certain kinds of paint though. It dissolved the black surface finish on some cheap barbell plates I had and lifted the colored paint on some smaller steel olympic-style barbell plates that I have.Overall I feel I learned a lot using Oxygone. Mostly that it sucks as a general purpose rust converter, but when used for its intended purpose as a surface primer for painting it works well enough so long as you can completely immerse the object in the Ospho solution, don't try using it on any mechanical surfaces, and paint the object quickly after wiping it down. I feel that it is fairly labor intensive to use when wiped on, having to baby the object, and do several passes of wiping and waiting and wire-brushing to get a satisfactory finish if you don't knock of the worst of the surface rust first. But it does work for what it claims to do, just be warned and don't try to use it outside of its specific intended purpose.I'm not in any hurry to buy another gallon. But if you intend to use for its as-labelled purpose then it does indeed work as intended.

There is always a delay with there shipping ALWAYS A DELAY WITH THERE SHIPPING ALWAYS A DELAY WITH THERE SHIPPING

Kills rust, turns it black. What more is there to say?

Frist 7herbs and spices are: zinc and 0.1% chromate and some wetting agents. Yes the white powder left is zinc oxide, the black residue is of course iron-phospate. This is for rust conversion. Msds says 57% phoso acid, for ospho 45%! Works good as it says prep n etch. Flap wheel, grind,sand file as much rust off as possible, always micro pits of rust. This stiff fixes that. To paint it is suggested to get off the white powder, but it seems unessary to get it all. Just hit it with 200-300 grit or steel whool