OsmoPolyx-Oil - 3054 Clear Satin - 2.5 Liters

Fantastic product. One of the best finishes I've ever used. A little bit goes a very long way. You really have to work it in!You can't possibly put it on too thin but it's easy to put on too thick. I tried a few different methods and just getting on my hands and knees and using a microfiber cloth worked best. Just do small sections at a time. If you need to stop just leave a feathered edge and it will blend perfectly when you start back up. I didn't care for the osmo brush. I couldn't spread it thin enough and the brush is very difficult to clean. With a microfiber cloth you can just throw it away. It really doesn't stink that bad either. I didn't find it any more offensive than latex paint.I've had this finish in place for 2 years now and I'm super pleased. I recommend this to everybody. The floor was completely thrashed when I started and I didn't bother to sand deep enough to remove the deep scratches and it turned out fine. Really works well with a floor that already has "character". It scratches kind of easily but that is outweighed by how easily it can be repaired. Just put little felt pads on your furniture and it will be fine. Seems to be VERY water and spill resistant so far. Definitely takes a good long time to fully cure.I'd recommend using the osmo brand cleaner on it. It works great.

I was convinced to use Osmo polyx oil by a flooring friend, I am not disappointed. I have been a Bona traffic fan previously, but I liked the spot refinish potential of the Osmo.It is more labor intensive to apply, but hopefully I will never have to sand down the whole floor again.This is the process I used, from flooring friend instructions:Sanded to 120 grit, cleaned thoroughly, water popped with filtered water and mop.I used the osmo brush to apply a thin layer, scrubbing it into the grain in 3’ sections running with the board length. I did multiple bedrooms at the same time working out to the hallway and into the rest of the house.After 15 minutes I wiped the section of the floor dry, and on to the next section.The next day, before second coat, I used a 180 grit sanding mesh on pole to lightly sand to take down any grain that raised with the water popping.I used it on doors and trim also, not sure if I would do that again, but I do like the spot refinish potential.I used (3) 2.5 liter cans on 1000 square ft. of red oak for two coats.I like the look and feel of it, and it seems to be a durable finish so far.Again, it is more labor intensive than poly, but imagine never refinishing the whole floor again!

I have been woodworking for nearly 40 years and I have used just about every finish product out there. We were looking for a natural finish for the kitchen cabinet refacing project that we're doing. I'm working with cherry wood that I felled and milled several years ago. We didn't want any added color and we didn't want a polyurethane topcoat. I happened on a YT video featuring this product and was totally impressed.I have never found a finish that is this simple to apply and so forgiving in the process! It's expensive but a tiny amount goes a long way. I used a non-abrasive automotive polishing pad to pick up a small amount of finish from the can and lay it on the wood. I used a swirling motion - almost like a French polishing technique - to work the finish into the grain. Then I worked the finish straight with the grain. I used a dry pad to pick up any residual finish. 24 hours for coat #2.We are so pleased with the results. The natural cherry wood grain is so warm and natural looking.This is a too notch product... my go-to product for wood cabinetry!

First and foremost: I absolutely love Osmo and have been using it for years. It is the absolute easiest to work with and I get compliments on how beautiful it makes each piece I make.I typically order the 0.75L can and haven’t had issues with any damage. I decided to take the plunge and purchase the bigger 2.5L version as I use a lot of this product. I was severely disappointed when I opened the package to find the bottom of the can on the verge of being busted open! I carefully checked the package it came in and everything was fine. It leads me to believe the product was knowingly damaged before being put in the package and still sold to me? Sure, the product inside itself is probably fine to use, however I am left with a can that cannot be safely put on its bottom without the fear of it tipping over and spilling its expensive content.

There is no way to open this lid without deforming enough where it can be resealed. If you are doing flooring then its not a huge deal as youll probably use most of the can, but if youre using it to finish smaller projects do yourself a favor and buy an empty metal paintcan and transfer the product into it from the start. This lid wont reseal well enough and you end up getting a big crusty layer on top after a few days.Otherwise everything people say about the actual finish is true in that it is so easy to apply and leaves a professional and durable finish.

Wish I would has found this sooner. Used on custom made Ash wood bed frame and headboad. Way easier to use the polyurethane with almost no odor. It's my new go to finish.

Whether you are laying it in by hand with a roller or using a machine, this stuff finishes beautifully. I was concerned with the price but after trying samples of all sorts of products and really worrying I was going to have to use a Poly film finish, the Osmo surprised me and has so far perfomed great.

it's a bit pricey but really easy to apply and the outcome will amaze you, and it the most durable oil i ever use. a great material for wood floor and exterior as well.