Tetra 77326 Tetra LifeGuard Tablets, 32 tablets treats 32-gallons

I used it to treat ich and in just five days all of the white spots disappeared. I highly recommend this product. More so, the price is cheap for 32 tablets.

I have a 55 gallon aquarium with live-bearers (swordtails, platys, and guppies) as well as a mini pleco, 4 killifish, a couple of dwarf gouramis, and a yoyo loach. I have to start by admitting that I never quarantine my fish. It worked out for me until it didn't. Anyone with a live-bearer community tank knows that you have a lot of little fishies. Well, I bought a couple of really pretty powder blue colored green lantern platy fish to add to my babies. Unbeknownst to me... These new fishies were not well. Within literally a couple of days most of my fish had ick spots, started to get white fungus looking spots, frays to their fins, and clamped tails. It was horrifying. I researched a lot to find something that would tackle all of these problems and found lifeguard all in one. My next step was to look at reviews and the best place for that?... Amazon 💜 there was another person who left a review with great detail and that person is my saving grace. With a 55 gallon I needed a lot of this medicine and going to my local pet store would have cost me triple what I payed here on Amazon. So based on that review I did a 10 day treatment instead of the 5 day recommended in the directions on the box. I needed 11 tablets a day for 10 days. In the first few days it seemed questionable if this was going to work but I stuck it out. By the end of the treatment I lost the female platy that brought the sickness but the male lived and I lost one other pregnant female platy but all of my other fishies got better. It was relatively inexpensive, I didn't dye anything blue, and most of my fish ended up living. My aquarium is back to healthy and I have happy fish again. I don't know why it doesn't work out for some people. It could be anything from the kind of illness the fish have or it could be caught too late... or anything in-between. I clearly had more than one illness in my aquarium and a lot of fish infected. Even though I lost a couple... I only lost 2 out of 23 fish total. That's incredible if you could have seen with your own eyes how many of my fish were visibly sick. Even the ones that weren't showing visual signs on their bodies were flashing against everything. Research, Lifeguard and Amazon reviews helped me save my babies! I would 100% recommend this product!!!! Oh and one more thing... The tablets did end up floating to the top of the water after a few hours but they still dissolved within a couple of hours after that.

Short story = Bought a black moor goldfish that gave ick/white spot to the other 4 goldfish in my tank. Whether it was all due to this medication or a combination of raising the temperature and adding aquarium salt to the tank as well, my original fish were cured of ick after 10 days of treatment and are all very happy again. The black moor however didn’t make it, possibly too young and weak/sick from the ick to withstand the temperature change/treatment.Details =So I made the big mistake of putting a newly bought black moor into my tank and not quarantining him for a couple weeks. Had always been lucky in the past with new fish but this time my luck ran out, lesson learned and next time I will be sure to quarantine...Anyhow a week after bringing the fish home, the black moor along with the 4 original goldfish in my 55 gallon tank all had ick. This was my first ever experience with ick after having had goldfish for 12 years so I spent hours online reading everything I could about treatment options. I had read about the standard treatments of Malachite Green or Methylene Blue, etc but these lifeguard tablets caught my eye since they didn’t have anything that would stain the fish tank green or blue and I wanted to avoid that since my tank is acrylic with sand substrate and lots of ornaments all of which would be stained. So after hours of reading everything I could find online about how ick (a parasite) works, here is a summary of what I learned and exactly what I did in my tank…First, its critical to understand there are three life cycle stages that the ick parasite goes through, and THEY ARE ONLY VULNERABLE TO ERADICATION IN ONE OF THEM! The first stage is when they are actually on your fish and they form a protective, round, white, cyst-like structure around them (hence the term ‘white spot’ disease). While they are inside this cyst feeding on your fish they are impossible to kill. No medication, including lifeguard or malachite green, etc. can kill them while they are actually on your fish/in these cysts. After they finish feeding for a period of time (influenced by the water temperature, more on that very important point soon), the cyst falls off and sits on the bottom of the tank, which is the second stage where a single cyst will then hatch 100+ more parasites. This brings us to the third stage of the ick parasites life cycle, when the newly hatched ick are swimming freely around your tank with the sole purpose of finding a fish to attach to and starting the entire process over again at stage 1. This period in their lifecycle where they are swimming freely around the tank looking for fish to attack is the ONLY stage where any treatment will actually kill ick. The turnaround time for the entire 3 stage lifecycle process can take 4+ weeks in colder water, to less than a day in 80+ degree water. So it’s extremely important to raise the temperature of the tank high enough to speed up the ick lifecycle so that it completely cycles at least a few times while you are actively medicating the tank. If just one cyst is still on your fish or laying on the substrate and hasn’t hatched yet due to cooler water temperatures and it outlasts your treatment window, your ick will soon be back all over again because there will be no medication left in the water to kill it during stage 3.That said, here are the exact steps I took to treat my ick including the use of these lifeguard tablets. My tank had 5 goldfish (one being the newly bought black moor that introduced the ick), 10 nerite snails, artificial plants, sand substrate, and two big air-stones.1. Removed my Nerite snails from the tank, as most ick treatments/medications can harm invertebrates including lifeguard. They went into a temporary 5 gallon bucket I use only for fish related stuff (so no soap/chemical residue), along with a small air stone I setup to agitate the water in the bucket. Snails stayed in the bucket during the entire 10 day treatment window. I changed the water in the bucket every 3ish days just to be on the safe side. Fed them algae wafers and zucchini. Snails can't get ick btw.2. Added aquarium salt to the fish tank. Salt not only helps with the fish health but apparently can be an effective natural treatment for ick at high enough doses though I didn’t go super high in concentration. I put in 1 tablespoon for every 5 gallons, so 11 tablespoons total in my 55 gallon tank. I took maybe half a gallon of water out of the tank, dissolved the 11 tbsp of salt completely into that half gallon, and then slowly introduced that water a small portion at a time back into my main tank, pouring maybe a cup every 15min or so. If you have live plants you would need to remove them since salt will harm them, but since mine are fake I didn’t have to deal with that additional headache.3. Removed all carbon from my tank. This is VERY important since the carbon will absorb the medication out of the water. If you use ammocarb chips, or have filter floss cartridges with carbon inside like I did you’ll need to remove all of it. I bought some standalone filter floss to perform debris pickup since the floss/carbon cartridge was gone. This stuff worked great- http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002AT7GG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s004. You must increase the rate of oxygen exchange in the water, since warmer water doesn’t hold oxygen as well. I already had a very strong air pump (whisper AP300 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002563QI?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s02 ) so I cranked it up to full blast and had a ton of bubbles coming out of my two 14inch air stones and creating increased surface agitation.5. With all invertebrates removed, and carbon gone, it’s now time to medicate. I put in one tablet of lifeguard for every 5 gallons of water, every 24 hours. So that means 11 tablets each day in my 55gal tank for 10 days. I just dropped all eleven of them right into the water each evening and they sank to the bottom and would fully dissolve after a couple hours.6. And finally, raising the temperature… I gradually raised the water temperature to at least 80 degrees over the course of a few hours on the first day of treatment, and over the next couple days of treatment I was able to slowly bump my temperature all the way to 86 degrees. I got this heater off of amazon which worked great - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006QI8304?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00. I’ve read that at 86 degrees most ick will actually die off naturally, but as goldfish prefer cooler water you’ll need to monitor the health/stress level of the fish and adjust temperature accordingly by observing the fish and backing off if they show increased signed of distressed beyond what the ick is already causing. Get a separate thermometer and place it in the water on opposite end of the tank from the heater to verify what temperature the heater is achieving. I got this one and it seemed to work okay http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002AQITK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00 . You will keep your water at or above 80 degrees for the entire duration of the treatment, to ensure all the ick fully cycles through all 3 stages and is killed off by the medication. The next few days will also be the hardest for your fish because the ick will spread crazy fast since it’s cycling so quickly in the warmer water. One day after I raised the temperature the amount of spots on my fish tripled and they were obviously very unhappy. Sitting on the bottom, fins tucked most of the time, with periods of darting around the tank frantically and rubbing against everything. Three days in is where I lost the black moor that introduced the ick problem *sigh*. I suspect he was already too weak/sick from already having had ick for a while to handle the temperature change, medication, and stress of it all…. R.I.P. ObieBlack Goldfishie, may the force be with you…7. After 4-5 days of treatment the spots on my original 4 fish started going away dramatically, after 7 days no spots were visible at all on the fish. I completed the full 10 days of treatment to ensure any/all ick was hatched and killed in the water.8. I did feed the fish during treatment but only half the flakes each day they normally would get.After the 10 day treatment was complete, I then->1. Turned off the heater to let the water temperature gradually cool off over the next 24 hours, and put carbon back into the tank filter to absorb all the remaining medication as the water cycled through over the next couple days2. Performed 30% water changes the next two days to lower the salinity back down some3. After 3 days with the carbon filtering any medication out and the two water changes, I re-introduced my nerite snails back into the tank.A few weeks later now and my original fish are very happy, with not a single white spot back on them. I know the salt/temperature steps I took alone would have helped in treating ick so maybe lifeguard had nothing to do with it, maybe it did. All I know is the ick is gone, I’m super happy my original fish survived and I didn’t end up with a green or blue stained tank by using the other standard medications.Your process and results may of course vary depending on how quickly you start treatment (the sooner the better if you want as many fish to survive as possible!), your type of fish/tank setup, their baseline health, etc.Goodluck!

Fish love it

All my fish are alive and well

This works however be sure to follow everything to a T! Take out the carbon also!

This product saved my fish. I recommend having a pack on hand at all times. I've used on tanks with Ramshorn snails but not sure I'd trust it with mystery snail. Easy to use. Just drop in tank. You can use as preventive in quarantine tanks.

Does the job required hopefully I just thought these tablets were very expensive £18 delivered for not slot of tablets in box as well is there some missing different size blister cartons in box one tablet a day for 18 litre size tank I had to put more tablets in my tank for one don't think it is value for money this product anyhow my oppion

Not at all worked.Very costly without any effect.Tried in my aquarium when my gold fish started feeling low. 4 fishes have died, but the medicine could not save any.Very poor......Not worth at all.

Works like magic 🪄✨ it took me 7 day to remove white spot from my fish with water change every 2nd day

This product was recommended to me by a friend, noticed a few fish flashing at times and ive never experienced this before and everything in the tank checked out good... this you might think expensive but giving it a go instead of all the other meds as you can spend some money and it dont work. Seems to deal with a vast majority of ailments and time will tell.