MadeSolid PET1751LBOFG PET+ Filament, 1.75 mm Diameter, 1 lb. Spool, Forest Green

The recommended temperature range is 250' - 270' C, but I found it to be too runny and liquid at 250'C. I've been printing at 240'C with the cooling fan on, on a 100'C heated bed with painter's tape and getting very clean, crisp prints. (see update below) Many people compare the results with PLA, and I would agree -- good detail and shine without warping or stringing.No discernible smell when printing.I do have difficulty getting it to stick to the bed, even with the recommended blue tape. It seems very very sensitive to the bed height, more so than ABS or PLA is. It tends to get gummy and stick to the nozzle, so "smashing" it down into the bed surface doesn't work. I'm still fine tuning, but it's definitely not as forgiving as PLA or ABS when it comes to the first layer.The resulting prints are strong and flexible, even thin walls. It doesn't crack like PLA or develop white stress cracks like ABS. It holds detail like PLA, so it's great for small mechanical parts that need to be strong and precise. It costs about 2x what PLA or ABS costs now, but it does have some of the best aspects of both.I ordered white but got black....but I decided to keep the black roll.UPDATE: having a lot of trouble with stringing and sticking....see comment.Update 2: I did hear back from madesolid and they made some suggestions that helped me dial in the settings. I'm now able to get some very very clean and crisp prints. Here's what's been working for me:* Avoid any bridging -- print single objects and avoid whole "plates" of multiple objects. Try to minimize support material or disconnected areas. It's very stringy and gloppy, and therefore prints better if you can arrange your tool movement to avoid perimeter crossings and long travel.* It oozes like crazy, so you need a lot of fast retraction -- the fastest your extruder can go and about 2-3x the distance needed for ABS/PLA. Thankfully it does not seem to shred as much as ABS and I have yet to have it buckle or chew-out even with fast & long retraction.* Prime A LOT just before every job. It will ooze out of the nozzle completely after a job and while heating up.* A generous brim is REQUIRED. It takes about 3-5 complete orbits before it really sticks to the bed and flows properly.* Blue tape on a heated printer bed (60-80'C), extruding at 245'C, smashing it down. Give it a thicker first layer if your slicer supports that. If you don't get a really clean and solidly stuck first layer, abort and try again -- it's unforgiving and it won't "fix itself" -- it will only get worse. (no in-air extrusions!)* For small objects, turn on the fan after the first couple layers -- this stuff tends to stay liquid longer and you can't build on layers if they're too soft and gummy. After the first layer, drop the temp to 220 and turn the heated bed off.* Print slow -- not more than 30mm/s with a 0.4mm nozzle in my case (I normally print abs at 120+).* Dial back the flow rate: Compared to ABS, I needed to drop the flow to 85-90% for the same filament diameter.* I've been using layer heights of 0.15 to 0.3 with a 0.4mm nozzle. I did not have much luck with a 0.25mm nozzle. A clean, thin nozzle is best -- one that's wide at the extrusion hole is more likely to drag and stick to the PET+.

PERFORMANCEOk so I'm reviewing the performance first so people wont get the wrong idea by my other observations.It prints nearly as well as PLA and is nearly as easy to print with, on the exception of a few quarks. First off, it is very stringy. Complex parts or, parts with lots of holes (like say if you were printing a model of swiss cheese) are riddled with strings. Iv'e heard printing hotter will help fix this. But I find that many of my pieces look like they've collected cob webs in a attic for 20 years. I've also had some discoloration issues with red. White works really well for me.STICKING TO THE BEDIf you're printing on glass, do not use blue tape. Just use a glue stick straight on the glass. Very important with longer and larger parts to print with brims. After the PVE glue and the brims, simply use a nuclear bomb to separate your print from the print bed.OTHER THOUGHTSIt's expensive, nearly 4x what I'm paying for PLA or ABS. It's very strong. A bit heavy, which also means you get less out of the 1lb spool than a normal 1lb spool. Make sure you visit the made solid PET+ printing tips page.WHY DO I USE PET+?I'm an engineer, I use PET+ because PLA is nearly useless to me as it cannot withstand hardly any heat. ABS prints like junk, so this is sort of the best of both worlds.COMMENT IF YOU HAVE THE SAME PROBLEMOk so shortly after blowing through a couple of spools my printer was having huge extruding issues. I'm not sure if it's my printer, or if this plastic has jammed my extruder beyond repair. IDK

Updated after 50% use. PET was highly recommended to me by some people I respect ( https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/3d-printing-today/id821012321?mt=2 ). It took me a bit to find a good temp. On my printer, at 230 it clumps, but over 240 it scortches and strings. even at 235-240 if the print head spends too much time in one spot, the white plastic turns brown. I still get warp on an unheated bed in a cold midwest basement (no surprise). In fact, the PLA prints I do have bad bed adhesion issues (more than half my prints), where PET+ worked almost perfectly, until winter hit hard (below 30 outside). It sticks to painters tape so well, when it curls it takes the tape right off the bed. I ordered the BuildTak stickers and will update.The prints that work looked great, but it's a slower filament--I get 60-80mm/s with PLA, but the PET+ prints around 40mm/s or less. PET+ prints significantly hotter than PLA (ABS temps). Biggest thing is it's about 3-4 times as much as the Hatchbox PLA. I had a lot of success with it after much less fine tuning. Slower prints, more expensive, slight warping, small temp range, but stronger and cleaner surface finish. I'd rather spend more on good, slow prints, then fast cheap failures.

Tried out the clear PET+ and used the recommended settings from the manufacturer's site on my TAZ 5. I created my own profile for it, basically replacing the PLA settings with the recommended ones. It printed fine. The only thing my kids were a bit bummed with is that when you print it, it's no longer really clear unless you print in thin sheets. The filament itself is clear though.Still, it's a nice alternative between PLA and ABS. Both print fine for us but PLA has a lower melting temperature while ABS is less environmentally friendly.