ZRC 10001 Cold Galvanizing Compound |1/2 Pint | Iron and Steel Corrosion Protection | Matches Hot-Dip Galvanized Performance | Contains 95-Percent Metallic Zinc

Excellent corrosion protection for rebar and cut ends of galvanized threaded rods. It is expensive, but worth it.It must be thoroughly stirred, not shaken (opposite of James Bond) to mix the solids into the liquid. Use a sturdy mixing stick and stir for at least 5 minutes, scraping the solids off the bottom and sides of the can as you stir. Popsicle stick is not suitable, too wimpy for this stuff. Hand stirring is necessary, as the can is too small for use of a drill mixer.I used plumbing acid brushes to apply it to the steel. For rebar, first remove the surface rust with a wire brush and/or wire wheel.To prevent evaporation over time, store the used can inside two sealed ziplock bags.

The ZRC cold galvanized coating has always been a great product. I’ve used it since 1968. First time I’ve purchased from this supplier. No problems, good price, quick shipping and delivery. Will purchase again.

Here are a few facts to put this in perspective:• Galvanization is NOT mere a coating. It is a metal deposit brought about by a very specific thermo-chemical or electro-chemical process. It cannot be easily and effectively duplicated at home---especially on larger pieces.• ZRC is NOT a metal deposit. It is fine zinc particles mixed with a clear carrier.• ZRC CANNOT “repair” the galvanizing by bonding with it. It merely covers it with a coating that has zinc in it.• ZRC is very difficult to use and gives poor outcome.o The zinc will not stay suspended in the carrier and must be mixed constantly, even during use.o It dries to a chalky coating that is easily worn off or affected by solvents.o It requires reapplication periodically to maintain protection. This is STATED flatly on the can.o It is VERY expensive.So, what did I do instead?• I cleaned around the ground areas and weldments with a wire brush and then solvent (Isopropyl).• I painted the galvanized channel with 2 coats of Zinsser BIN primer (Made by Rust-oleum, available on Amazon). This shellac based primer has very high adhesion and is recommended for galvanized metal.• I painted it with two coats of Rust-oleum Aluminum paint, mixed with catalyst hardener (Magic brand). This gave it a nice silver color.• All painting was done with a foam or micro fleece roller for smoother finish. It still leaves some imperfections but far less than a brush.You might think that painting galvanized metal makes no sense. But remember, you are not lessening the value of the galvanization. You are just adding to it. The metal deposit is still there. It is just further protected by paint.+++++A FEW WORDs ABOUT CATALYST HARDENER+++++Catalyst Hardener for oil based enamels is an excellent product. It increases the gloss, increases hardness and vastly speeds dry times. When you use a good enamel like Rust-oleum with a hardener, the paint comes out like a factory finish. In fact, it will harden even in an airless environment because it uses a chemical reaction, rather than mere evaporation.

This is definitely pricey but it has a ton of zinc in it so I think this is going to be probably the best on the market. Putting it on with a cheap brush will not do you any good, use a good quality fine brush or tight nap roller. Does not go very far so don't expect it to, buy more than you think you're going to need because you're gonna need every drop. I did 8 chainlink fence poles 1 coat and barely covered those at 6' tall.

I needed a good quality zinc brush-on coating to repair some slightly dented and rusting galvanized sheeting over the wheel wells in our travel trailer. This product had received good reviews, and I'd been only marginally pleased with previous spray products purchased at local "big box" stores. I don't know how well it will hold up over a long period of time, but I couldn't be happier with how easily it goes on and the uniform coverage. It definitely has a high metal content, as it is unusually heavy for such a small can, plus it took me a few minutes to get it properly stirred up.

I just finished using this to galvanize the legs (144 total) of eighteen plant cages I use in my garden. The cages are rather pricey and I wanted to keep them in good shape after they spend an entire spring, summer, and fall stuck in moist/wet dirt. Some of the cage legs had serious rust and corrosion and were starting to lose their structural integrity. I cleaned each leg with a rotary tool to remove the rust. For painting, I used a cheap, disposable paintbrush (from Amazon) and just discarded it after a painting session. I kept a Popsicle stick (from Amazon) in the can of paint and stirred it every few applications to keep the zinc mixed good. When I was done, I just discarded the paint brush and stirring stick. I did discover one attribute of this paint. I accidentally knocked the can off on the floor. It is thick enough that I was able to use a 3" plastic scraper and pick up about 75% of what I had spilled. Saved me from having to buy a new can and I was able to finish my project.

Bought to protect my salt water boat lift, which was beginning to rust after,most of the galvanized coating had degraded. A wire wheel, some intimate time with the angle grinder, and the metal was prepped. Applied smoothly and looks fantastic, ready to protect the steel for another 20 years. The original order (2 pints) did not cover enough amd ordered another 3 pints, so I could finish and keep some on the shelf for repairs to be completed later. A terrific product.

As noted, needs to be gently mixed as you are using/applying the paint. I cleaned and sanded small rusted areas and it covered beautifully. If you are using this for a Lead-Zinc "looking" finish to galvy or other metal containers or decorative architectural fittings and items, first apply a single coat over entire surface, let dry. Then take a small amount and thin it with mineral spirits and dry brush the surface to create aged shadows etc on your items. Works great and hope it ages and gains a patina well too!