Mityvac MV8000 Automotive Tune-up and Brake Bleeder Kit, Selectline Hand Pump (MV8010), One Finger Vacuum Release, Ergonomic Design, Gearless Diaphragm Gauge, 4.5oz Fluid Reservoir, 4 Tapered Adapters

I recently used the Mityvac MV8000 Professional Brake and Clutch Bleeding Kit to flush and bleed the brakes on my car, and I’m thoroughly impressed with how easy and effective it was. This kit is a game-changer for anyone looking to do brake work themselves.

Awesome tool. Used it for my 2 Camry cars. Easy job. Should have brought this years ago. Invest I to this, it Worth your buck and time.Easy to use, no leaks, perfect fit for most cars. Light weight pump.

I bought this so I could flush and bleed motorcycle brakes easily by myself. I bought this manual model versus the pneumatic one simply due to cost and amount of use. First, it does the job once you get an understanding and have everything arranged. Certain types of brake fluid are corrosive so you can't be fumbling around. I was working in a chilly garage and the plastic hoses were not cooperative so patience and being prepared are necessary. Test fit everything, have rags ready, and take your time. Second, this tool does more than just bleed brakes so if you need diagnostic work on engine vacuums etc. this can also handle. Third, the placement of the vacuum release lever underneath the tool is poorly designed. You constantly press it while holding the tool with other hand. Once again, you just need to get used to the tool. All in all, for the money, the functionality, and the time and cost savings I think its a good value and worthwhile tool to have if you do your own vehicle maintenance.

The harley stealership wanted $280 to do the brake fluid service on my bike. This pump and a half hour, job done for a fraction of the cost! Piece of cake. Pump works well.

One-person operation, precise bleeding

A friend who is a professional mechanic recommended this item to me. My respect for his reputation diminishes by half as a result:First thing out of the box I thought I should assemble the pieces and do a dry-run test: I could not get a vacuum to form. The lip around the waste brake fluid continer would not seal. I thought there was an o-ring missing from the kit. I checked the instructions carefully and concluded a seal was not included. Eventually I tried all 6 orientations that the 4-ounce receiving vessel would snap into the lid containing Vacuum IN and Vacuum OUT plumbing, found 2 positions that kind of sealed, and marked the best orientation with a permanent marker so I could find it the next day for the wet-run.The manual vacuum pump develops a good vacuum. But the devil is in the details. Ancillary problems prevent the apparently excellent engineering of the vacuum piston, plunger, and valve from being useful. All told, I cycled a number of gallons of high-end (expensive) brake fluid through this device. My cost in wasted brake fluid is greater than the new price of this device.First, the worst design problem with this device is that it has only a 4-oz "collection vessel." When you have to quickly pump gallons through the bike to encourage air bubbles to travel down the brake lines, that's a hell of a lot of stopping just when the stream has almost emptied the air from the system to let the bubbles rise back up the vertical brake lines to the handlebars! The biggest problem is that that the small collection vessel requires that you constantly interrupt your progress every minute or 2 to re-empty the reservoir. There are so may problems with this unit, I include a bullet list, below.The vacuum release has a hair-trigger. And I MEAN hair-trigger. If you bump it, touch it against something on the side while trying to rest the unit on something while you refill the fast-emptying brake fluid reservoir on the handlbar (which needs attention every 15 seconds or so), the vacuum is released. At first I thought, "no problem," but it turns out when the vacuum is released by the device, air rushes back into the caliper's slave cylinder. You have to grip the vacuum pump in the same location where the vacuum release hair-trigger is, so... My advice is to use some snap-ring pliers to remove the vacuum release trigger. You can easily depress the end of the valve actuator without the giant hair-trigger lever-arm someone (probably a marketing committee) opted to include.There is the list of problems I encountered with this product. There may be a better product made by the same company, or maybe I just got a lemon. I can usually trust my mechanic friend's advice, but not WRT this item. It's problems include:Poor vacuum seal at lip of collection reservoir;Difficult to avoid vacuum-release hair-trigger;Rear handle of vacuum pump falls off while in use. (See photo);The sealed "clock-face window" for the vacuum gauge fell off. (Perhaps a worker forgot to glue it on?);The white splotch on the side of the vacuum meter bezel (in photo) is due to its coming in contact with DOT5.1 brake fluid -- the most harmless kind. One would think a tool made for use with brake fluid would not be immediately destroyed by brake fluid the first time it touches a tiny amount. The other side of the initially black bezel is mostly white;Neither of the two "6mm" soft rubber fittings provided seal reliably on my 6mm "grease nub" bleeder valves;The vinyl tubing they include was wadded up in a tiny compartment in the corner of the box. Even though I left it stretched straight overnight the night before trying to use it, it curls up when you try to use it, and knocks the miniature collection vessel over, and pulls the fitting off the bleeder valve at the least opportune times. Every time this happens, it introduces air back into the system that was there when I decided to use a "professional tool" to remove the sponginess remaining after I bled the brakes with my homebrew Gatorade bottle. When that infernal trigger kicks air back into the system, you have to start over again from the beginning;The rectangular black plastic piece straight off the face of the vacuum gauge fell off of the vacuum pump. I thought it was a decorative ending for the trigger, because its hollow cross-section is shaped like a cross-section of the giant lever-arm for the hair-trigger. But I see there is no such decorative end piece on the trigger in the product photos, so I am at a complete loss as to where it came from. When I say it "fell out," I mean it fell out. I didn't bump it, drop the pump, nothing. I was taking it into the other room to dry after cleaning it, and it fell out on the floor.After 6 hours of trying to get this unit to work (and I'm no neophyte -- I have bled brakes before) the sun went down, and I gave up. Total FAIL. The brakes were much worse than when I started. They weren't even spongy. No engagement at all.There may be more issues that I forgot to mention about this wonderful tool, but that's as much of my time as I can afford to contribute toward making Jeff rich(er) at the moment. Thank God I still have a little time left to return this POS!

Yes the hoses come kinked. I set them in a car in the sun for an hour or two with the windows up and they returned to their original slight curve (from being on a roll at factory) but not kinked.The cup has suction. If you look at it before you try to put it together you will notice it's possible to tighten the lid in either direction. Turning it clockwise until the tab on the cap touches the middle tab of the cup and it holds enough suction to function as intended.As for the "boots" no connecting securely. On my 2004 Sebring they fit perfectly, sealed very well, on my 1999 Eldorado they didn't seal very well because the bleeder valve nipple was pretty rusty and needs to be replaced. That being said it still pulled fluid just not a good stream. I also had no problems with my 1994 F-150. Got this started today at 5pm and had 3 vehicles done (replaced brake fluid in all) by 7:30, this includes time to jack them up and remove and rotate tires, and a couple smoke breaks.The cup isn't very big but is perfect for this purpose. I started by sucking the fluid from the reservoir (filled cup twice) then started with the closest brake (drivers front) worked clockwise around vehicle (filled once for each to get new fluid). Emptying it is a breeze though, if the tube still has fluid in it just put the boot end in a container and press the vacuum release button and it will siphon the entire cup into your container. If there isn't any fluid in hose just give a couple squeezes while submersed in the fluid already in container then press release and it will siphon it all out. I didn't have to unscrew the cup after I put it together.Like others said it is a little awkward to get it to stand on it's own while you have your hands busy, I figured out a way to get the cup upright but it took a few times.The only real problem I had with it was on my 2nd or 3rd brake on the first car the squeeze handle fell off, there was a metal dowel that holds it to a rod and it had somehow gotten turned so it lined up with the hole and just fell out. It must have happened during shipping because once I got it back together (which took placing the dowel in the hole, placing handle on, the using a small flat screwdriver to lift and twist the dowel/rod to lock it in place on the handle-5-10 minutes with slick hands) it never turned again.I believe that most peoples problems originated from bleeder valve nipples that were not in good shape (rust or crud covered) and I would definitely recommend this to my friends/family. For what this costs plus a gallon of brake fluid I did 3 vehicles today, will do one more tomorrow, for less than it would cost to have a shop change the brake fluid on one vehicle.