Let’s see the various steps involved in the making of this beautiful stole/scarfs/chunnu/duppatta of Indian Kota Doria – WINDING: Winding is the process of transferring yarn from these hanks on to bobbin for warp and on pirn for weft. WARPING: Warping is the process of obtaining a predetermined length of warp having desired number of threads that shall be needed for the complete width of the fabric DYEING:The yarns are dyed (or colored) manually by dipping them in utensils filled with heated water and pre-dissolved dyes. SIZING: Sizing is done in order to impart strength to the yarn and is required mainly in cotton. A thin rice paste (‘maandi’) and juice of locally available wild onion is used for this purpose. DRAFTING-DENTING-PIECING: All individual cotton and silk threads are drafted through double clasped country cotton heald (‘Ranch’) and dented through dents of bamboo/ steel reed (‘Fani’) in a particular pattern to produce the checks or ‘khat’ along with the weft. Since drafting and denting of individual threads is time-consuming, an alternative method called piecing is used in which the individual new threads of the warp are tied to the corresponding threads of the previous leftover warp. WEAVING: Weaving is done on the pit looms by throw shuttle technique. It is done so skillfully that almost uniform size of the ‘khat’ or the check pattern is produced. DESIGNING: The designs to be produced are first made on graph paper and then transferred to the fabric through various techniques.
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