The Original Fix-A-Floor Loose Tile Repair Adhesive For All Tile, Ceramic, Marble, Stone & Wood. Custom Tip for All Grout Sizes 10.1 oz-Pack of 2 *For Best Results Use The Proven Power of a Caulk Gun*

We had multiple loose tiles and this worked well. Make sure you have an appropriate caulk gun, bucket of water and a sponge or you will have a mess on your hands. Do small areas and clean as you go. This stuff dries quickly on exposed areas like the surface of your floor. Weighing the tile down after application is essential to get the best adherence.

It worked just as stated. I read the reviews and it told it just about what it was like. Very messy and I followed one of the other reviews and let my laminate floor sit for 48 hours compared to the recommended 24. Was it necessary? I don't know, but after the 48 hours I was very pleased with the results. I had purchased the 2 tube package. Only used a small part of one tube, so I'm not sure 2 tubes are necessary.I purchased a better quality caulking gun then the budget model and was glad I did, but probably not necessary. The product looks like elmer's glue and will ooze out all over. But cleans up easily with water.I would recommend this product and would purchase it again.

I read a lot of reviews and I was skeptical with some of the negative reviews but decided to try it anyway. I'm sure glad I did because it saved me a ton of money by not having to re-tile 450 sq ft since I didn't have any extra old tiles laying around. One negative review said the glue was Elmers glue which is not true. The adhesive does look like Elmers glue but the adhesion was excellent for tiles. The second negative review had to do with the application. The critical part is to strategically drill the hole in the correct places. You have to determine the hollow area by knocking on the tiles to hear where its hollow and drill a hole next to it through the grout. One additional step I recommend to determine you have drilled in the correct spot is to drill out the hole then before you vacuum it up, step on the tiles next to it to see if you get a puff of dust sprayed up. If so, then you have correctly found the right spot. If you don't see a puff of dust then don't bother to try a squirt the adhesive into the hole because the hole is a dead end. Hope this helps. Application is the key to a successful repair with lots of savings and no inconvenience of having to replace tiles.

This stuff works well, as far as I can tell. I followed the instructions and now the tiles in question are solid sounding, instead of hollow. And there is no more crackling sound when they are walked on. Time will tell how long it lasts, but I would estimate it will last as long as the original adhesive was designed and intended to last.Now, here are some things you NEED to know, since they are NOT mentioned on the label/instructions:1. Shake each tube to mix the contents. No telling how long they have been sitting and whether any separation of ingredients has occurred. Why take chances with adhesion and drying? Remember, this is a thick liquid, so temperature matters. If the tube is under about 65 degrees the product will not flow as freely. And it probably won't mix when you shake the tube. You should feel the liquid shifting in the tube when you shake it. Submerge the tube in warm water for a few minutes to warm-up cold contents.2. You MUST unscrew the nozzle and put a hole in the tube FIRST, before trying to squeeze the contents out (see images). I used the masonry bit I used to drill the holes in my grout. And you must ALSO cut the nozzle (or poke a hole in it for very narrow grout lines) to the size that will fit the holes you drill. I don't know why this isn't mentioned in the instructions, but I suspect a lot of guys are having tubes exploding out the back-end like I almost did. I had cut the nozzle, but didn't realize that it unscrewed and that a hole must be put in the tube itself.3. Keep in mind that you are compressing a two inch tube that is pressing its contents out of the small hole you put into it and then into an even smaller nozzle tip. It is EASY to over-squeeze the caulk gun, while expecting the material to be flowing freely into each hole. Patience is the key. Soft, slow squeezes on the gun. And then waiting for the material to flow. And even then, expect some leakage at the back of the tubes and at the front. A rag and bucket of warm water helps to clean up the gun and tube for the next use.4. This may be obvious, but before you drill, tap around the perimeter of each tile. Only drill where the tile sounds hollow right up to the grout line. Hollowness next to the grout line should mean that the material will flow into a hole drilled there and under the tile. If it's not hollow right next to the grout line, don't bother drilling a hole, even if it's hollow two inches in. The original adhesive will probably block the Fix a Floor from flowing into that area. And you'll have waste and a mess.Hope this helps. Good luck!

So I have tried 4 tubes of this stuff so far. The first was a mess and absolute chaos. I tried to use the supplied needle attachment and the tube busted out the back and leaked everywhere. The needle clogged constantly.For the second tube I used the normal caulking tip provided and just cut off the very edge of the tip. This worked 1000% better.Squeeze slow and you will feel the resistance when the hole is full. Have all of your holes predrilled so that you can move from one to the next. This stuff will run when removed from the hole so have wet rag handy. You will lose some product but no where near what you would lose trying to use the needle. I used 5 gallon buckets filled with water for weight and that’s it. Easy peasy. Hopefully this saves you some frustration as the product does do what it says, just needs some different steps.

We applied the product to a few hollow areas under tiles, and while it worked on a few, there are several which still sound hollow.