Thermal Grizzly Carbonaut - Carbon Thermal Pad - Non-Adhesive, Flexible and Reusable - Very High Thermal Conductivity - Conducts Electricity… (38 × 38 × 0,2 mm)

This little gem is amazing for what it can do! Tested against various thermal grease, I found this is basically just as good, often better than all of them!The only exception being one, but that's not a grease... It's a liquid metal! It's the only one that outperformed on my liquid cooler, but not by much! Ironically, the liquid metal is by this company too!That said, it's a whole lot easier to use this pad than any messy thermal pastes / grease... or especially that metal (and to scoop it back off and clean the chip back up!) Its value is in the performance and easy installation.While it states it CAN be reused, I found you can maybe use it once.... at most twice before it starts to fall apart. Additionally, if it has undergone enough thermal heat from the CPU, the elasticity it once had is gone. So, keep this in mind! This happens usually after a couple days of use I found. Sometimes sooner if the chip heats up enough under stress.This pad, remember is thinner than a piece of paper. Think, thin as a hair! Once used, it becomes even thinner than that! Second use, it becomes even more thin! Starting to follow why it starts to fall apart? But I feel you got your money's worth even after the first use! The thermal transfer is simply AMAZING! Like I mentioned before, I had to try liquid metal to get better results!

Works great and was easy to use. I had no trouble with the sheets after repeated removal of AIO block. That said, trying to remove the sheet ended up in failure as it ripped very easily and I wasn't able to reuse it after that. That said, the thermal performance was much better than expected. With a 360 AIO, on a 9800x3D, system idles at about 30c and during heavy testing loads it would stay at or below 80c.Setting up a new 9950x3D system (PBO on and modest undervolt/overclock), with a 360mm AIO, the system idles around 50c and also stays at or below 80c during heavy testing loads.Overall, very impressed. I'm sure if I used a different product I could shave off some degrees but I am happy with these results.

The item works well, as does everything I have bought from Thermal Grizzly. I bought a little bigger one because I delidded my CPU and wanted to use some of the extra on the direct die, but in the end, I just stuck with their liquid metal for the better temps. I use their AM5 heat spreader for my 7800X3D. I trimmed the thermal pad to fit the heatspreader perfectly, and after boot, the temps were good. Nothing wacky happened on the first boot; it kept it cool. This was the first thermal interface I used for the 7800X3D, so I can't really say if it's any better than thermal paste I have used in the past. One thing is, since the thermal pad is so thin, it can rip easily. When I went to remove my cooler from the heat spreader, the corner was stuck to my heat spreader and ripped off from the rest of the thermal pad. It isn't that big of a deal because I was able to line up the rip with the rest so it was still completely covered, and no thermal differences were noticed either. But it's still annoying that it ripped from just removing the heat sink when the point of thermal pads is for longevity and reusability.

I absolutely love this product, for one very simple reason: it takes 90% of the headache out of cooling a laptop. I have no idea how this functions on a desktop computer, but every time I've used it on an overheating laptop I've seen dramatic improvements.Why is that? What makes this better than liquid metal, or IC Diamond, or any other TIM? It's thermally conductive, sure, but properly applied liquid metal is better.The answer is simple: these are miles and miles easier to properly apply on laptops. Something I struggled with for years on my old Razer Blade was having decent cooling on most cores, but one or two that were several degrees hotter, tripping the throttling even if most of the chip was fine.This happens because, unlike desktop coolers, laptop heatsinks are almost universally less precisely constructed. Contact surfaces that would make the cheapest chinese knockoff desktop cooler scoff are the norm on laptops.My $1600 Razer Blade from 2017, for instance, contacted the GPU with two, completely bare heatpipes, fresh out of the mold, with a 2mm gap between them and not even 100% coverage across the surface of the die. It was a nightmare.I tried shims, I tried modifying the heatsink height, I carefully sanded the heatpipe so it would actually be flat, I all but broke out a level to make sure the thing was flush, but I simply could not eliminate the inconsistent cooling. That is, until I bought this TIM.A quick trace and the barely careful application of a razor blade later, and it was fixed. It was a eureka moment that I'm still giddy about. So, when it came time to upgrade my computer, one of the first things I did was buy a couple boxes of Carbonaut.If you're after the lowest possible temperatures, look elsewhere. However, if you're struggling to apply TIM in a consistent way due to terrible heatsink design, give it a shot. It worked miracles for me.Just make sure the heatsink is making some kind of contact. It's easiest to apply a paste, then remove the heatsink again to look at the spread pattern.

Far easier than paste. Same results. I run an AMD 7960 Threadripper with water cooling in an untreated environment (slightly below freezing to 115F... yeah, climate control would be nice). Running same temps as my old system with a TR 2950 had with paste. Using another, smaller, size for an old intel 'space heater' cpu without issue also. These conduct electricity, so make sure they do not contact any electronics. Very thin. I'd read that they were easy to tear, but I never came across that issue with careful handling.