Goretex Repair Tape Textile Seam Sealing Waterproof Outdoor Jacket Patch

I have the grey and the black. My only gripe is that the black is not black, it's not very dark at all. I used this tape to repair some expensive TAD Gear jackets. One of them has a polartec liner and I wasn't sure how the tape would adhere to that, but once I hit it with the iron it glued down to any surface it touched. I set the iron to 3 and applied adequate pressure, nothing crazy, and the tape really seals down to every edge and crevice it touches as long as you heat it up adequately. You can see in the photos how the glue slightly seeps out on the edges, that's how you know you got a good bond. If running multiple pieces apply a good overlap of the pieces and iron them down on top of each other. Take your time, and it's pretty easy. I love the results and only time will tell how long it holds, but from what I see it seems very solidly attached.

Looks like a good match for rain coat inner lining. Will carefully replace tape around hood and neckline, tomorrow.

I have an Eddie Bauer insulated parka that was too wide in the waist. I took the jacket apart and tailored the torso, but then needed to waterproof the new seams so they wouldn't leak.The jacket's outer shell is nylon laminated inside with a waterproof, breathable layer. I needed to iron the new waterproof tape directly onto the laminate which meant having to be careful about how much heat I was directly applying so as not to damage the laminate.I checked on YouTube first to find directions on how to apply seam seal tape, and most people said you need to use more heat than is recommended. I started out with medium heat plus steam (the silk setting on my iron, hotter than synthetic but cooler than cotton), ironing directly onto the tape and laminate. The tape adhered just fine, but I noticed the laminate was melting in certain places (I tested on a piece of scrap fabric first). I then tried the same thing with a sheet of baking parchment inbetween and was able to melt the tape adhesive without damaging the laminate. All in all, I found the amount of heat to be consistent with how much heat is needed to iron on patches with their own adhesive. I didn't want to try using a towel between the iron as I find that towels usually block too much heat.One thing I had to be very careful about was not to pull on the adhesive to check its adherence. When I did this, it pulled some of the laminate off where they were stuck together. Fortunately, I was able to patch up those small new tears with more tape. Given that the two materials seem to be fused, I'm not that worried about it coming off.I found that the tape went on easier if I did a first pass to just get it lightly adhered and in place, and then a second pass where I applied more heat and pressure and got it to adhere more strongly. If I tried to do them both in one pass, it was easier to accidentally misalign the tape.One thing I should mention is that I used a tailoring ham while I was ironing which allowed me to press really hard on the seam while I was ironing. This probably helped with the adherence. I was concerned that the iron would be too big, but with the parchment paper in place, I really didn't have an issue with the iron being too large or damaging the other materials with too much heat.Hope this helps for those who are working on apparel!

I repaired several previously welded seams on my Arcteryx jacket with this tape.A medium hot iron worked perfectly, with a small cotton cloth to protect the goretex fabric. Time will tell.

I’ve used two other seam sealing tapes and this one was better. It applied easily and seems to be both flexible and not release.