Savogran 10501 Wood Bleach, 12 oz (2.(Pack))

Used this to treat varroa mites in my bee hive. Wood bleach is oxalic acid and that's exactly what you need to treat your hive for varroa mites. Here's the technique I used:-- Time of application --1. Because oxalic acid will not kill Varroa in capped brood, I like to apply oxalic acid at times when little or no brood is present but before it is crazy cold outside. For me, this is late fall.2. Treating once per year at the right time may be enough because this system knocks Varroa down to almost nothing.-- Prepare solution --1. Measure 600 ml of hot water into a non-reactive container.2. Add 35 grams of oxalic dihydrate crystals (wood bleach) into the hot water. Stir but do not shake.3. When the crystals are dissolved, add the 600 grams of sugar. Stir until dissolved.-- Apply the solution --1. Smoke your bees down between the frames.2. Dip the end of your syringe into the medicated syrup and pull back the plunger, filling the syringe to the 50 ml mark.3. Starting at one end of the frames, dribble 5 ml of the solution along a seam that contains bees.4. Once you have dribbled 5 ml, you must go on to a new seam.5. After each seam of bees gets 5 ml of solution, you are done.In any case, you cannot go over 50 ml per colony.

Using in honey bee hives. Very good natural varroa mite treatment.Update: Been using this every August for Mites and have not lost a hive in 3 years due to mites !!

I sanded down my wood flooring and found some pet stains had gotten through the old finish and left black stains. After applying this Bleach twice the stain is nearly gone. I think one more time will do the trick!

This is what you want to kill mites.

I used this on a. moldy birch veneer on a trunk b. a cutting board stained by the wet bottom of a cast iron pan. The pan mark essentially disappeared with ten minutes of application. The trunk had a more subtle result but I did see worthwhile improvement. Since application of the solution opens the pores in soft wood it’s important to sand to a pretty high grit to close them again otherwise stain will be taken up to a higher degree in those sections and they will appear darker. I also used a wood conditioner prior to staining which lightened the finish a bit but did even out the blotchiness birch is known for. All in all I think the wood bleach was worth the hassle. The cutting board restoration paid for the tub. I will say to anyone not familiar with oxalyic acid to be careful with this stuff..I don’t even open the container without eye and respiratory protection in place. All it needs is water (tears or saliva) and it will burn. I removed a star because the container is almost impossible to open without disturbing the powder and I could see someone quite possibly flinging a bunch airborne in the process...not safe.

Excellent product for removing water and sweat stains from wood such as a gun stock. Very gentle and effective. Some before and after pics below. Complete stock refinish pics can be found on my website - www.pintlar-tactical.com/Refinish

The key to this product is patients. I was renting a house with hard wood floors and my dogs water bowl caused a black mold mark. I followed the instructions and after 20 minutes of scrubbing and re-wetting every minute, the spot was gone. I then used a salt and olive oil mix (consitancey of paste) and scrubbed it into the spot and let it set for 10 minutes to make it even more unnoticable. I will definitely recommend this product to anyone. I saved me from losing my deposit!

Keep in a cool, dry place. After opening, I really suggest that you keep this protected in a zip lock bag. I use this with my bees and it works just great. It is so much cheaper than they charge at the bee outlet stores. I think it is better packaged too but you can damage the top when you first open the container. Be safe and store in zip lock bag.