Naniwa Ebijirushi Japanese Ceramic Sharpening Stone Whetstone with Base Grit No. 400 IN-2004 from Japan

This is the original Super Stone. It’s thinner, making it more affordable. One would need to sharpen a lot of knives or flatten very often to wear this out. By using a good nagura stone and cleaning after each use, and flattening only when necessary, a long life expectancy is possible. By being mounted to a base, it reduces the possibility of cracking due to dropping, etc.. Only one (I think?) Naniwa Super Stone is coarser, the 220 grit. This stone will repair small chips and reconform edges fairly quickly. The 220 is better for more damaged knives, then move up to finer grits. This 400 cuts fast and will give a nice burr. Softer knives will do fine on it alone. Harder ones need a finer stone to finish for a nice result, such as a 1000 or finer. A quality stone for your cutlery. This stone gives good feedback helping you know how you are progressing. A good value for your investment in fine cutlery.

It will work but it's like an aluminum oxide stone very soft glued to the base and cuts very slow. Go with a metal base diamond stone

love this stone, the only thing I would suggest is they make the stone removable from the tray but that's aminor thing

Good stone. Creates little shavings that are clay like which helps prevent too much of the burr to form (good thing). You will need to wipe it down a bit so make sure to have a cleaning block on hand or brush. If you are a beginner like me I wouldnt use this to practice because of the fact it is hard to form a prominent burr for educational purpose. A good stone to have, but choose something else for now till you get betterNOW the reason why I had to give it a 4 instead of a 5 is because of the board....The. Mutha. Fudging. Board... They have the stone super glued to the board. Ok, I thought that must be nice... Welp the problem here is they went super cheap on the little 'slip-proof' foot/padding underneath. If you apply too much pressure, which isn't much, the board will slide around. You will need to figure out a way to keep it down ( I was able to duct tape it down to the table) else you need to use light pressure which will take over an hour to form a small burr. I really wish they just had a separate rubber grip that comes off like everyone else did...Also mine was green but the box says s400 (can't Japanese so gonna have to take their word for it). I think it's the same product

Feet are hard plastic and so the stand slides and doesn’t hold the stone stationary.

These takes off just enough to from a knife to be able to put a new edge on it without taking off too much of the bevel. I use this wtih a 1000 grit and they pair perfectly.

Bought this stone in 2015 after reading some great reviews. It worked very well, but the big plastic base made it awkward to store. While attempting to remove the base, it broke up into thirds really easily, like a piece of blue chalk.Could be an outlier, but I feel like the strategy was to sell a very thin (too thin) stone by gluing it onto a cheap base for support. If the base was the same dimensions as the stone, it would store much more easily, but then it would be very obvious that you bought what amounts to a sharpening stone version of "particle board furniture:" with a thin wood veneer.

Price is good for a quality manufacturer, but I'm not quite sure of the suitability of this stone as general purpose, for all steel types. I just picked up a vintage Millers Falls hand plane, made between 99 and 100 years ago. The blade is original and my guess it is a W1/water hardening steel. This stone was very slow to flatten the back. I changed to a medium Spyderco and, voila, cut three times faster.On the other hand, it has worked nicely on O1 blades! Not 5 star, but more than 2 stars.