SEAL-ONCE MARINE - 1 Gallon Penetrating Wood Sealer, Waterproofer & Stain. Water-Based, Ultra-low VOC formula for high-moisture areas to protect wood docks, decks, piers & retaining walls.

Honestly, I didn’t know what to think. There are several negative reviews, several positive, which left me in a bit of a lurch. Do I risk it and potentially regret it, or will I be a lucky one? I went ahead and pulled the trigger and couldn’t be happier. I followed the directions to a “T”, bought the clear and then purchased the black tint separately. This stuff goes on like a dream. It’s is a bit watery, which the green painting tape didn’t completely guard against, but being water based made for pretty easy cleanup. I’ll try the upgraded paint block tape next time. We’ve had a hard rain today and this stuff had performed flawlessly. Water beads up and runs right off, the wood fibers seem very well protected/sealed, nothing to complain about as far as adhesion goes. Time will tell if it lives up to its stated duration. Honestly though, it goes on so easy and looks so good, I’m not opposed to having to reapply earlier if needed.

this stuff is amazing. After sanding my porch steps, I treated them with this sealer. The wood was instantly sealed and the water just pearled. I prefer the natural wood look.

All of my reviews are of things I buy for myself. I do not accept freebies or anything in exchange for my reviews. Period. The Marine stain-sealer works very good. It has good coverage, goes on easily and quickly and the result is long lasting and looks great. It's my go-to stain-sealer now. I use it on my decks instead of the nano type. I've read many of the reviews and throughout many of them the same theme comes up, lack of proper wood prep or not following instructions. Preoprly prepared wood and follwing instruction will provide you with one of the best stain and sealer applications of any product including the top tier name brands. The wood. If the wood isn't properly prepared then no matter what you put on it will fail prematurely. Putting any stain and selaer on new bought wood is a mistake unless you first clean it and sand it. The wood you buy often has a waxy coating on it and sometimes anti-mold agents put on it. If all you try to do is buy new wood for your deck or project and then just stain and seal it, it won't last. Clean the new wood first, it's easy and you can use a dilution of bleach, water and dawn dish soap. Use a deck brush to scrub the wood and then rinse it off real good. The let it dry for at least two days, 3 or 4 days if it's humid or not really warm outside. If you don't do this the stain and sealer will not take. Before you apply the stain-sealer, test for penetration. When you apply a small amount it should soak right into the wood. If it sits on top, it's not going to work, nothing else will either. If you are using it on a deck, sand it even after cleaning the boards. Then just before you sapply, wipe the boards with a damp clean rag. Do not rely on using an air compressor or brush to get the sanding dust off. The rag should be just damp, not soaking. Let the boards dry for a few minutes and then apply the stain-sealer. It should soak right into to wood. This coat should not be heavy, but rather a light to medium light coart. You should not see shine on the surface. If you do, that means the stain-sealer isn't penetrating and you didn't prepare the wood correctly. On a 16' typical deck board, start from one end and let it sit for about 5-10 minutes. Go back to where you started to put on the secnd coat. This will be a light coat and it might seem shiny for just a short time. Don't use a heavy coat or it will sit on top and come off ahwn it wears or water gets on it. Curing. Let it cure. 2 days is best. Planning for this time is essential. If you need to use the deck then do part of it and then block that area off. Rotate areas you can use vs areas that need to cure. When to apply. After the morning sun is up and temps are up. Applying stain-sealer while the air has a lot of humidity is bad practice. Same with trying to finish some boards late in the afternoon unless your area is still nice and warm with low humidity. Decks or docks near or over water. The air is full of humidity so only aply at the height of the warm part of the day. Many boards on docks have been previous treated with oily sealers. Sorry, you'll never get that stuff off the boards so your choice is to use a similar sealer because nothing else will hold up. So clean your dock boards really good. The problem is that anything you use to clean much be ok if it gets into the water or can drain into the water. That means if the wood was treated with any oily type selaer nothing you can use that is safe for the water will also take off the previous oily sealer. Use the right product for the job. Brushes. Amazingly, some of the cheap synthetic brushed worked far better than expensive name brand brushes. The more expensive brush load up too much sealer and that isn't what you want. You want the sealer to run off and out of the brush so you can control how much goes on the wood. Trying to spread the sealer using the brush is a waste of time and leads to a bad result. Light coats. Clean-up. Dawn dish soap applied directly to the brush on both sides and then just a little water to let it suds up. Work the brush in a stainless steel pan back and forth really good. The start rinsing. Keep rinsing until thre are no more suds and the water runs clear. SHake the brush and let dry. Do that and just slightly beding the bristles before next use is like a new brush. Prep, prep, prep. You only stain-seal once every few years, don't skimp on the prep.

Product worked well. I used sprayer on deck boards and then immediately back-brushed the sealer to work it into the very weathered boards of my deck. Surprised by the milky white color of the “clear” sealer I bought, but all the white disappeared within 10 minutes of my brushing. Deck looked wonderfully different when I finished, and sealer clearly worked: water beaded up on boards when it rained a few days later.. Only problem was that one of the upside down cans leaked in the carton despite the metal clasps, making a small mess.

I purchased this product to refinish my small teak table for our patio and two wine barrels I’m restoring. I sanded the old finish for the table with 150 grit paper followed by a finish sanding using 220 grit. I used a small synthetic brush to apply the product. Following the instructions I applied the first coat being careful not to apply too much to avoid ponding. It went on smoothly, I applied a second coat after 15 minutes or so, as instructed on the label. It restored the teak to the original color and beauty. I was able to refinish the top of one of my barrels using the same procedures, except only one sanding with the 150 grit. It turned out great. It was easy to clean the brush as this is a water based product. I found Seal-Once to be a great value for the money. Time will tell how durable it is but I’m confident it will be.

The product is fine, but you lose an appreciable portion because -my single and 4 gallon containers arrived with a thick, crust of what appears to be pigment at the bottom. Vigorous shaking and stirring makes little difference. As the product level reaches towards the bottom of the can, the colour brightens to White. I asked their technical support for advice and received nothing useful, just dodging whether the items received were old stock and whether I ought to claim a replacement. Received more information on how experienced their expert was, than how to remedy the problem. Being off shore means I cannot examine the product and return it if next supplies are similar.

Used this to seal our cedar deck that I built. Goes on smooth, used a pump sprayer and then went over with a paint roller. Has a milky color when first applying and then dries clear. Applied two coats back to back. Deck is about 450 square feet and I used almost two gallons. Only complaint is the handle, I had one break off while pouring product in to my pump sprayer. Beads water like crazy and brings out the beautiful color of the wood. Smooth to walk on and very easy to clean once dry.

This is VERY hard to determine what to think. Purchased "clear". When I opened the can, was amazed at how white it was, and how lack of clear. (Pictures 1-2.) This is being applied to an OLD deck. Guessing it was built with my house in 1986, but it could be slightly more modern. Pressure washed deck (although you can see some missed places in the attached photos. (Mainly photo 3 and 4.) Used a foam brush, and overall, I thought it went on pretty well and was fairly easy to put on. The final look, looked pretty good, so I was pretty happy. Still working on doing more of the deck, and it's VERY obvious where I left off. (Don't have a good picture of it currently with the deck rained upon last night.) Applied wood looks "wet" in comparison to wood left alone, so I still wouldn't say the application is "clear". Clear, to me, implies it will look the same before and after. Note, can does NOT re-seal well. Thought I had everything set after the first day but shaking can to apply the second day got me damp as the lid leaked. Could it have been put on tighter? Probably. Did I think it was sealed? Definitely. Shook for a while before it started coming out, so I just don't think it stays sealed without the metal clips it shipped with. Now, why is my rating only a 3? As stated previously, it rained last night. When dry, the wood looks great. Wet and a bit darker than it started, but it looks pretty good. (Pictures 3 and 5 for comparison. Light wasn't exactly the same but it was close.) With the rain last night, the look has turned grey in places. (Picture 6.) I have a similar picture of the steps, but the grey isn't as visible on the steps as it is on the bench. Basically, everywhere there was a flaw in the wood, it looks grey with the water. Knot hole, blemish, crack, it all has varying shades of grey. Hopefully this will keep my deck whole for a few more years. On straight wood, without knot holes, I'd highly recommend the clear sealant even if it isn't perfectly clear. On older wood, wood with knot holes, or other deformities, if you don't mind a deck turning grey when wet, it could be recommended. Note, coating has only been on at most 10 days for the first day's coating. Cannot give any idea about durability, but this is not remotely what I expected for a "clear" sealant.