Door Lock Actuator Motor Front Left Driver Side | for Toyota 4Runner Camry Tundra Sequoia, Lexus ES350 GS350 LS460 RX450h, Scion tC xB xD | Replaces# 69040-0C050, 69040-06180, 931-401

First of all do a search for undoing a Toyota door panel. You’ll see how it’s really not rocket science to switch out an actuator. But then you’ll see how there’s not a gull durn thing about the 2nd gen Highlander 2009-2012’s panel removal.I’ll try to wake you through but you own responsibility for damage. First get those plastic panel vehicle tools; they make things easier for tinkering.Remove the plastic cover where the side mirror rests. So it from the window side.Pop loose the plastic cover behind the inside door handle to expose the 10mm/Phillips screw & remove.Pop open the brown faux wood trim from the top which is held by plastic tabs. They reveal two Phillips screws, the other two of the three that anchor the door panel. The lower screw is deep inside a tunnel.Return to the juncture of the panel on the mirror side. Wedge your tool between the door and panel and begin popping loose the retaining tabs and then you can grab beneath the panel popping along the bottom, up the right side past the actuator, then along the top. I kinda lifted some while pulling out and the panel comes free.The actuator is anchored by 3 Torx screws. Tinkerers, get a set here because they’re used on most cars. Undo and place in a safe spot.There is plastic to carefully pull away from the door. Unplug the unit by the one set of power plugs that is secured by a tab you push in and then pull.Examine your new actuator. There are two cables that fit into that plus one metal rod that fits BEHIND the actuator. I didn’t know about that rod so reach around to feel it behind the old one you’re about to remove. Jiggle the actuator to slide that metal rod free and you’ll have to twist the unit clockwise to free it from the metal ridge inside the door. Lift it free and it still is attached by the two cables.Examine from YouTube videos of the older Highlanders and how the old actuator holds the two cables. Open the black plastic tab to expose the ball shaped end. Pop each cable free of the unit’s body. Rotate the ball end 1/4 turn to unlock. The second has thin metal shank that is Z shaped. Carefully free that as well. Attach the Z shaped end and then the ball end of those cables and anchor them to the body of the new unit.This is the part that I had forgotten when installing: reach in to find that heavy steel rod that attaches to the outer door handle. That end goes into the white plastic hole of the arm of the new actuator. Once you’ve slid it through, lift the actuator unit and swing it back around that ridge and set it into place and hand screw the 3 Torx screws.MAKE SURE to plug the unit with the power cable (I forgot that too lol). Test that the unit operates by remote and power buttons. Wait to manually lock and unlock the button for now.Also check to make sure that the latch is properly ready. It’s the black swing arm that latches your door. Mine was closed and when I tried shutting the door it didn’t latch. Pull the outside handle which I think opened the latch.Tighten all Torx screws. Check once more that there’s power before reattaching the door panel. Go in reverse to assemble and then test.Mine on a 2011 Limited Highlander works flawlessly now. All operations are retained, from manual locking to using the power buttons, the remote and also the automatic unlock when you walk up and put your hand inside the outer handle. You can’t beat the price and value. I’ve saved hundreds by doing the homework and having the patience to DIY!

The locking unit was an exact fit for my 2013 Toyota 4Runner limited.

3rd party actuator that’s going to save you $150-$200. All the mechanical functions feel a little third party, but it works well, and is easy to replace. If you're replacing from YouTube videos, make sure the video you use also covers reconnecting the keylock (it's an extra step, and one more screw to loosen/tighten).(Updated rating - issues I did have were self induced.)

I suspect the quality is inconsistent with this manufacturer. Others seem to have no issue. However, mine almost left me stuck with being unable to open the door manually from outside or inside. It was someWhat ok for a few days. (The ‘somewhat’ is described below)The lock was installed by a skilled and trusted mechanic. His comment was that the entire actuator unit would not line up with latch pin quite right. The door would stay shut after slamming it harder than I normally would. After a few days passed the door would not unlatch from the inside our outside handle. Luckily, after fiddling with the remote lock and unlock for a few minutes, the handle released the door open. I’m not sure if the actuator mechanism ‘unstuck’ itself somehow.Needless to say, it would have been a massive headache to fix if I didn’t get lucky. I imagine that the door panel would have to be ripped open with a latched door to access the broken actuator. This would likely destroy the panel and require a new one.My suggestion is that you purchase the OEM unit instead from Amazon. It was $100 more, but it installed perfectly, lined up perfectly, and operates with 0 issues. With a little research, you’ll find it on Amazon. It’s roughly $130. I compared it to the cheap unit and OEM. The cheap unit looks and feels substantially worse than the OEM/$130 unit.

I'm not a mechanic. The install took longer than the YouTube video suggested. The door doesn't close as gently as the original part but works fine.

The power lock on my 2008 Toyota Highlander stopped working with either the power button on the inside, or the key fob. This had gone out before, but the car was under warranty, so Toyota fixed it for $0, but estimated an $800 ($350 part + labor) price tag. It wasn't worth $800 for me to fix it, so I saw this and thought I'd give it a shot for $35. For the price difference, I was skeptical if this was the right part or would work. A few Youtube videos later and the door works great! Easy to get to on the Highlander with Youtube help and easy to get out. Two things to watch out for: (1) make sure to re-insert the outside door handle rod into a slot on the side of the actuator when reassembling. I didn't even know that was in there because you can't really see it when taking it out and there wasn't a video specific to the 2008 Highlander. (2) Make sure the wires stay clipped in position. One had popped out when re-assembling, so I used electrical tape to keep it in place. Thanks for saving me $800!

Exact fit and finish of OEM part. OEM part did not last, so a none OEM part can’t be any worse, and is hundreds of dollars less.

Works great and now my door locks again and didnt cost me $1000 from the dealer