RIDGID 26998 Model K-400 Drain Cleaning 120-Volt Drum Machine Kit with C-45IW 1/2" x 75' Cable, White, Black, Red

Sturdy tool. Used it several times already. Bought different attachments for it with the money I saved from not calling a plumber. Never used one before but saw some videos that helped me. It's easy-to-use once you get the hang of it. Different attachments do different things don't expect to buy this with the equipment it comes with and think your good. Sometimes you have to add to the tool to get the job done. It's not too heavy and it rolls to where you need it. I keep all the different blades it came with and that I bought separately in a heavy duty pouch that I clip on to the handle. It cuts easily through roots with the right blade. It takes a little patience and time but it works great.

I have the older clay-tile main-line, and tree roots get in at the seams. I used to have to either pay a company to come clean the main-line or rent a machine and do it myself 1-2 times a year (spring and fall). I decided to spend the money on this so I could just do it myself, and eventually save some $$$. So far, so good.Pros:Good size (smaller than the pro ones).Works wellPlenty of cable lengthCons:The cable being 1/2" is a little more flimsy than a 3/4" cable is more common on the pro ones. I had it kink up on me once and was barely able to get it stopped before I destroyed the cable. In the end, I learned how to be more careful with it and it hasn't been a problem since.The wheels aren't great - They only touch the ground when tipped way back. I am considering replacing them with some larger wheels.The drum is a little too close to the ground - On uneven ground or in deep grass, it can get bind up and the drum won't turn. Readjusting the placement of the device has always resolved this, but a little more thought into the fact that you aren't usually using this on a tile floor would have been nice.UPDATE:I've had this for awhile now, and used it several times. Here are a few things I've run into over that time period.1 - Air leaks from the hose from the connection at the machine. The foot pedal is a pneumatic switch, and I was having trouble with the air leaking out of the pedal and then the machine wouldn't work. What I found was the hose clamp that connects the pedal to the machine wasn't working right anymore. It is a crimped connector, but no amount of re-crimping fixed it. I bought a standard screw-type hose clamp and it's been fine since. A whole lot of irritation, but in the end, it was a 10-cent fix.2 - Loose belt - This might be because I use it outside, and the drum would sometimes run on the ground. But, the belt needs to either be replaced, or I need to figure out how to adjust the tensioner pulley. The drum is currently slipping a bunch, which means it isn't cleaning out the roots like it should be. What I've found is if I put more pressure on the tensioner pulley, the whole system works much better. I haven't had a chance to look into if I can adjust that or not, but once I get it figured out, I'll post another update.

Ordered this Drum Machine received it first time with no wheels to attach and a plastic piece on the drum broke, returned it for an exchange for the exact same one , received it this morning and It is BROKE as well.. obviously there is a manufacturing issue with this product!! returning for a complete REFUND

This is our 2nd Rigid and the first one lasted over a decade. So far everything looks as it should. It was easy to put together and seems to be good quality. The only complaint I have is that it shows an auto-feed in the picture. It seems predatory to have the picture of it, but not mention it is not included. Size and weight are great and if it lasts as long as the other one did, it will be a good value.

I received my Ridgid K-400 yesterday evening with overnight shipping (Prime + $3.99 for overnight). That in itself is pretty amazing for a 70 lb. machine. I read the instructions and watched the DVD last night, and used the machine this morning. These are my findings:1. READ THE INSTRUCTIONS: You might think you know how to use it, but I have no doubt I would have used the "reverse" wrong if I had not read first.2. This machine is expensive....or not. When you consider that the next size machine is about $2800 (something like your plumber would bring out, and that the going rate for that professional service in my town is $300) then it seems like a bargain to me.3. Figure out in advance that this machine comes with one of two cables: 100 ft. of 3/8" diameter OR 75 ft. of 1/2" diameter. I did not know the limitations of the 3/8" cable, all I knew was that I wanted the largest cable it came in, and so I paid the extra $50 for the shorter but bigger cable.4. After you read the instructions you will learn that the 3/8" cable is used for up to 3" pipe. My main line is 4", so I got lucky with buying the 1/2" cable, which is good up to 4" pipe. But I did not know this in advance. From my cleanout to the end of the line is 60 ft. If yours exceeds 75 ft., then I suppose you would have to go with the 3/8" cable...but I am certain you will lose some capability.5. One of the reason that cable size matters is breakage, but I don't think that is the primary reason. There is a relationship between pipe size and cable size that needs to be adhered to. The natural tendency of this spiral wound cable going round and round is to wrap itself up and get tangled and tied (you do not want this to happen in your pipe). The larger the pipe and the smaller the cable, the more likely this can happen. Also the 1/2" is stiffer, which also resists the tangles. As a matter of reference, the machine your plumber brings out has a 3/4" cable, so the closer you get to that the better.6. Because of this tendency to wind up when in a too-large pipe, the instructions pretty much say don't go into the larger line (in my case the "city line") that the line on your property finally dumps into. Problem is, that very juncture is where a lot of clogs happen. In my case I believe there is probably not a tight connection between my line and the city line, and that is where roots enter the system. So the first thing I did was pull the cable out of the machine and lay it on the ground from my clean-out to where I think the city line runs (is in an easement at rear property line). I wrapped some duct tape around the cable at that distance so that I would have a good idea of when I was about to hit the city line while I was feeding it out. Turns out this was a smart thing to do and I recommend it. When I got to that tape, I slowed way down on the feed-out, maybe a couple inches at a time, so I would not have a couple of feet of cable swinging around unsupported in the larger city line (you can pretty much tell from the cable action in your hands when you have entered the larger pipe).7. The instructions say "not designed for root blockages". Something else a person would not know in advance unless he read Amazon reviews. I could see no reason a strong 1/2" cable would not work on root blockages if you used a cutter type tool on the end, instead of the typical spiral bulb tool that would probably just push through the roots and do no clearing. The cutting tool that comes with the machine is really too small, so I did 3 things: 1. First I ordered 2 larger end tools...but don't have them yet (there are many to choose from). 2. Second I opened up the small cutting tool (instructions say it is for "grease clogs") so that it was a little wider. 3. Third, with my 2 hands I put a slight bend in the end of the cable so that it would cut a wider swath as it went through the 4" pipe. It worked, as I suspected it would. When the new cutter tools come in, I expect them to work even better (if I can get past the first bend at the cleanout with them).8. I did not buy the model with the auto-feed, so I cannot comment on how the machine would work with it. With the manual feed (which is what ever plumber that has come to my house has on his machine), it is very easy to feed out, and is very easy to feel in the cable what is likely going on inside the pipe. As I am feeding out the cable manually, I am wondering why anyone would pay extra for the auto-feed. Then it was time to feed the cable back in. If going out is "X" effort, then coming back in is "3X". But still very doable, just plan on working up a bit of a sweat. Also if the cable should bind or get caught, you have to turn auto-feed off anyway. Auto-feed might be a good thing, but I am completely satisfied without it, and no moving part to break (except maybe my wrist).9. I have been plagued by roots and blockages this past year, when never before in the past 30 years that I have been in the house. I have been told by more than one person that because of the drought we went through last year, that the roots are going out to hunt water wherever they can find it. Could be. I only know that if your expensive plumber shows up to route out your line, and all he has on the end of his cable is the typical spiral bulb, you are going to be calling him again soon (don't ask me how I know)...and then you learn that they don't guarantee their work for clearing roots. After paying for a couple of those trips, I now do not expect to be calling them again for drain stoppages.10. Last piece of advice: As someone already mentioned, do not brag to friends or family that you have this machine.UPDATE: The larger cutting tool came in and I tried it out. There are several types made by Ridgid, but mine is sort of a spiral cutter. It went through the first pipe bend just fine. However this pipe bend is within sight and with the slight bend I made in the cable, I can angle the cutting head toward the opening of the pipe bend before I turn on the machine. Went right in and started chewing.