INC. 31604 Quart Natural Blend Painters Putty

I Learned about Crawford's from John Leeke's excellent book, save Americas windows. As a Mighty Tiny House builder using almost exclusively salvaged materials and non-toxic products whenever possible, it was important for me to find a glazing putty that did not include the chemicals that DAP 33 puts in theirs. Also, DAP is the worst performing putty. As Mr. Leeke puts it, "if you're using DAP, you should be looking for something else."Crawford's is basically linseed oil and chalk whiting, and no harsh chemicals that shouldn't be touched (or inhaled, or gotten on your clothes, like the warning on the DAP gunk!)And it is NOT a 1lb pint, as the picture shows! It is a 4lb quart sized can. I don't know why the company doesn't manage their listing better, but they also don't have info on their website about whether this can be used for window glazing putty, and they don't answer emails. I suspect they've been around forever and just produce a great product but aren't so tech savvy.That said, yes Crawford's can be used to read glaze old wood windows! It is an excellent, excellent product for that application. The key as I have found it, is to really work the potty in your hands and get it completely warm before you apply it to the window. After I get all of the old glazing putty out of the window, I prime it with a 50-50 mixture of pure tung oil and natural citrus solvent that you can get from Real Milk Paint. I let this soak in for a few minutes, but if it's been longer than a few hours before I put the new putty on, I will apply a little bit more of the tung oil/citrus solvent mixture. This helps the linseed oil in the putty to knit with the tung oil on the frame, and will help adhere the putty to the wood.Next, I add a small bit of putty, the "back-bedding" to the rabbet, then insert my glass, then the glazing points, and finally the larger amount of putty on the front that will be tooled into a beveled shape later.After I mush the putty into the frame, I use my angled putty knife to pack it down into the frame and onto the glass. John Leeke has great YouTube videos showing you exactly how to do this, so I won't go into greater detail here. But I will say, that leaving the putty to rest at that juncture for at least 15 to 20 minutes is an important, crucial step in getting it to give you a nice, clean edge when you tool it or bevel it in the final step. John talks about it "marrying" the putty to the glass in this resting period, and it is what will keep the putty from tearing out when you tool it later. If you start to tool it in order to create your nice, finished beveled edge and the putty on the glass is breaking as you pull your putty knife down the edge of the putty, you have not waited long enough. Mush it back into place, and wait a little longer. Also, if your glass is too cold, it will not allow the putty to seal onto the glass, and you will get tear-out that way also.Once I have beveled the putty, I dust the glass with chalk whiting to remove the fingerprints. You definitely do not want to use any kind of a wet wash method on the glass at this point, because the putty has not skinned over yet, and is not yet painted. The chalk whiting and a soft paintbrush will remove all your fingerprints off the glass, and it will also put a thing layer on the putty, which will help it skin over faster.The Crawford's putty does require time to skin over and even more time to completely harden. You will start to notice a light skinning in about 24 hours, and after several days it would probably be OK to paint it. But the putty underneath is not really set yet. But these are all good things! The natural, linseed oil in the Crawford's which requires more time to skin over, means that the glazing will actually last longer in the window. The junk with all of the chemical driers in it, may skin over more quickly, but it does the putty does not seal as well or last as long.Just don't forget the final, crucial step once your putty has skinned sufficiently, which is to paint the muntins, putty, and a tiny bit of the glass! I know a contractor who routinely re-putties all his windows, and then doesn't paint them. What happens is, in about a year there is black mold on the putty, and then in about 2 to 3 years it all cracks and falls out. The putty will take on water if it is not painted after it dries, end it will ruin all your hard work and effort in reglazing the windows!Oh--another small note. The Crawford's comes packed with water on top of the putty. If you are new to reglazing windows, don't freak out. This keeps the putty from drying out in the can. Simply pour it off, dig out the amount that you want to use, and at the end of the day when you are ready to put the lid back on, flatten out the putty in the can as best you can and then put about another inch of purified water on top of the putty and then replace the lid. This will keep it fresh in the can, and I just take the water of putty and blot it on a clean towel before I start to work it and warm it up in my hands. This dries off any excess drops of water. Good luck!Also, I have no idea why my iPhone cannot understand the word "putty" when I speak to text. It keeps writing "potty" no matter how much "uhh" I put into the "u"! So, if I miss correcting a couple of "potties" that should be "putties", blame Apple. (By the way, just now it wrote, "...a couple of hotties that should be patties...") Yes, Apple, hotties that should be patties is probably what I meant.

Saw a painter using this for exterior hardi board and decided to buy and give it a try. It is what I have been looking for. It is a white, dough like putty that goes one easy with your fingers and can be smoothed over while applying it. After drying I didn't have to go back and sand it since it was flush with the boards. It is very wet upon opening, but recommend taking a batch out of the can and rolling into a ball and letting it sit out for and hour or so before using and it will dry it some and make it easier to use. Also used paint thinner on a paper towel to smooth over or remove excess that I may have put on the boards and also to clean off my fingers. Very good professional product that I would recommend to anyone.

Recommended by a contractor friend. Putty is superior to caulk for filling recessed nail indentations. Ease of application speeds up the job. Very pleased with product performance.

Been using it for yrs best painters putty on the market

I have used this for years and love it! But it's hit or miss sometimes on getting a can that is fresh and pliable vs dried out. It does come covered with water and this can had barely any. Hopefully the replacement will be better.

This material comes in a can with water! It is there to keep the putty moist. I found that, once you have drained off the surface water, more water appears when using it. Not a problem. Scoop up a clump and roll it up into a small ball. Next, either pinch off a small piece, or cut a small piece w/a putty knife. Squish and rotate material into the crack (etc.,), wait a few seconds and then swipe off the excess with a CLEAN blade. It leaves a flat surface, which is great. If it does not work, try again and re-swipe the excess putty from a different direction than what was used in the 1st attempt. You can gently shape it with the end of your finger, but do it lightly. Work with it: once you work with it for a while, you will get the hang of it. Once you remove the excess, add it immediately to the small ball in your hand, as it will dry out quickly (the only reason for giving it 4 stars). Finally, pick up the small pieces that fall to the floor immediately, as they will stick to it w/a strong bond. Concluding, it is much better vs. the small canned putty in all regards. Recommended.

I liked the consistency and workability compared to the glazing products off the shelf at big box stores. I have a feeling that it will also be more durable.It should be advertised for use as a window glazing compound and not just a painter's putty.

The product was severely separated like oil on hard clay. I could not get it smooth, perhaps it had frozen or something.

Purdy covers the putty with water and it was not and the putty seemed had and dry... like old putty. Had to use it, but sure made for a difficult job and not the best results. Would not purchase from this company again.