ArtMolds High Grade Copper Powder - Easy Cold Casting Using Polyurethane Resin for Making Sculptures | Home and Office Decors - 1lb/350 Mesh

This product is just what I was looking for for my woodworking. I used it for filling small voids in a wood table I was making that had much character, but a few natural voids that I wanted to fill and bring up to the top to make a smooth surface. This powder suspended in CA glue worked just fine. Excellent value product.

We added a pound of copper to our antifoul ablative bottom paint for our boat. This was a very fine powder and easily incorporated.

Love it. Easy to work with

I'm using this for a slight variation on 'cold casting' - mixing into epoxy to fill knots, wormholes, and checks (a type of stress-based split or crack) in woodworking, more specifically honey mesquite and pecan wood right now.At first I was a little uncertain about this one...I had tried the "Mona Lisa" copper metal powder before, which seems much finer grained and brighter (shiny penny copper vs. darker brownish), I think more intended for 'embossing' sort of applications. But this powder mixes into epoxy much easier without trying to puff away with the lightest stir. The mixture initially turned a pretty scary looking dark brown - almost like chocolate, using 4 very small scoops (maybe 1/8th tsp each?) to about 20ml of mixed epoxy (I use T-88 from System Three). But after filling, planarizing with 100grit sandpaper, then working my way up thru my usual wood finish scale of 150grit, 220grit, and then lightly sanding out only the metal filled regions with 320, 400, and 600....whoa. Exactly the finish I was after. The brightness came up, and it looks like metal veined right into the wood. Hit it with your clear finish fairly quickly after this final buff (at least a first coat - I use Pratt and Whitney #38 varnish which is fairly non-yellowing, thinned about 30-50% by some more mineral spirits to become a 'wiping varnish' that takes 4-5 coats before it really builds much over top of the wood surface vs. hardening 'in' it) and I suspect the brightness will stay protected from future oxidation, although only time will tell on that count.Compared to the Mona Lisa powders this is more granular (although still very fine), it 'sinks' into the epoxy mix easier and doesn't puff away, and is far far cheaper than the tiny 1oz jars I was trying before.Once this project is done I might add a photo or two...A couple tips if you're into this sort of thing - suggest for really big knots 'layering' by partially filling with clear or even brown or black ink dyed epoxy, then the copper mix, alternating if you get a lot of sag into a large knot and have to keep topping it up to get back to the desired wood surface. A heat gun really also helps reduce viscosity and bring the air bubbles out of it (don't overdo - heat just until you see if flowing more clearly like the surface tension has relaxed...if you see the epoxy 'sizzling' or turning whitish at edges you'll regret it).

You get a lot of powder at a very low cost, I am using it to fill cracks in wood with superglue. The powder is very fine and does not seem like it will work at first, but it does! Polishes up to a nice copper penny look that others have mentioned.

Very fine powder

good amount of powder, using this for printmaking project.

Came in a small bag, heavy for the size it is, so don’t expect a large amount! It’s also a brown powder, not bright shiny copper like the copper chop. I used some in resin for orgonite and it made that resin opaque, so when pouring just know it will cover everything in that layer making smaller details not visible.