0101 Brake System Power Bleeder 3" Round Adapter - See Application Guide For Fitment

I used this tonight to bleed and flush the brakes on my old Jeep TJ. It worked flawlessly. I centered the cap and seal over the master cylinder reservoir. Slowly tightened it down a little on both sides until I felt it was secure, but not too much. The tank and my brake system held 15 psi for a few minutes and that's all I needed to know. I released the pressure and added brake fluid. The whole process would've taken a few minutes had I not had to run to the store to get 2 new bleeder screws. It really makes bleeding brakes 10x faster and easier. I love this thing and hope to use it for many projects to come. I put thread tape on the hose fittings btw.

This system works well and I've probably tried them all.No more pumping the pedal and adding a couple of ounces of fluid for each brake cylinder, jumping up & down and hoping the reservoir doesn't run dry, I did my truck in 15 minutes once it was all set up, worth the money.I bought the special adapter for my mitsubishi vehicle a year later, it's expensive but the "universal" cap w/j-hooks would not seal......turns out this custom cap would leak, slowly.... but for $60+ I expected more.I found a larger 32.7 mm o-ring I had in my spares would fit inside the cap and this coupled with the original internal o-ring made a perfect air tight seal. I expected a little more from Motive for the price I paid.....

Pequeño pero muy útil

I had a difficult time bleeding my brakes (soft petal) I have a 2012 GMC truck I thought it was the master cylinder ....I bought a scan tool to purge the ABS system that didnt seem to help.Hooked this unit up pumped a litre through and it solved the problem....

Worked great on my 2012 Toyota Tundra crew max 5.7L platinum. Be patient and it’s the easiest way ever to bleed brakes. IMO, Way better than the standard 2 person peddle pump hassle.There is a sweet spot between too loose and too tight with this universal chain fitment. First time I tried the air test I had everything ratcheted down tight and couldn’t get a reliable seal on the master cylinder.I followed the directions closely. But here are a couple tips from my experience.1. Center the cap and tighten just enough that the cap is firm but still slightly moveable.2. Use Teflon tape on the brass thread fitting.3. Hook up the empty pump jug and start the air test. Tighten as you hear air leaks (this could include slightly nudging the cap around to get even pressure on the master cylinder).4. Pressure up to 14 psi and time the pressure drops. My personal goal was, hold the test pressure for 30 seconds and no more than a 2 psi drop in 3 minutes.I bled air from the brakes at each of the 2 calipers as I swapped out and a final full flush at the end. I set this pressure bleeder up 3 times. Each time I was setup and ready to power bleed in 5 to 10 minutes. I ran mine between 10 and 12 psi for both the bleed and flush. I stopped and checked the pressure during the flush about every 3 minutes or so. Adding pressure as needed. All in all very easy.A final note, this is not a true “air tight” system. No way will you ever get it to hold at your test pressure for any long duration. The connections and pump are just not at the air tight quality level. But they don’t need to be, to pump the viscous brake fluid. This guidance worked well for me multiple times. No leaks or dreaded pin sprays out of the cap. You may want to be more conservative than me. But I wouldn’t advise going a less conservative route without prior experience.