The Science of Black Hair: A Comprehensive Guide to Textured Hair Care

This book is an excellent read and should be read by all Black women that want to start taking better care of their hair. Contrary to some of the reviews this book is NOT geared toward Permed/Relaxed hair it's geared to ALL black hair textures and it teaches ALL of us how to take care of our hair. The beginning chapters focus more on the science behind hair and goes into depth about hair cuticle & follicle and what makes up a single cuticle etc. which I found to be very interesting and I can almost guarantee that most of us have never even ventured into this area of hair in all our years of hair care. Getting to the root cause of our hair and how and why it grows the way it does etc. is important so that we can put into practice a regimen that will grow our hair not stall it. Yes, I have found some of the info doing my own research on you tube and googling but I still found the information such as ph levels, breakdown on different types of hair damage, shampoo & conditioners, sample regimens for detangling, shampooing/conditioning & styling quite helpful in tweaking my current regimen so that it is balanced. I must admit some of the info I have researched on my own has been just listening to other people and what they think or know about ingredients etc. but having read this book I now have a thorough knowledge for myself of silicones, proteins, sulfates and moisturizing ingredients that are listed on products and know which ones are good for our hair and what should be used to target certain hair issues. There is a section which has recommended products as well as sections on different styling methods both protective and unprotective for both natural and relaxed gals. I think some people are looking for a "quick" read that will just tell them what to do and what to buy for their hair. If that is what you are looking for then you need to keep looking for that book that will give you just that little bit of information. This book is about more than just giving you a quick fix, it is about teaching you to understand that to achieve healthy hair that grows begins with you and your understanding of what you need to do to make sure you are giving your hair the treatment and attention it deserves. Only then will you truly be able to grow healthy long hair. Another book that I have been reading along side this one is "If you love it it will grow" and I find this book to be similar to the SOBH book but it's an "easier to digest" book that simplifies the scientific terms etc. that SOBH refers to. So if SOBH is to "scientific" for you than I suggest getting "If you love it.." as it's easier to understand and employs the same hair care information and methods.

Since I was a little girl, I always wanted full, long, thick, silky, shiny, and even straight hair. Since I was 10, I started to be obsessed with black hair care and hair. I researched for the past 10 years on how to grow and take care of black hair. I used gimmicky super growth hair products such as "Doo Gro". It didn't cause a miracle growth for my hair. Every time I searched and collected hair care advices from Sophisticate's Black Hair Styles and Care Guide magazine, various sources from the internet, and I was sub scripted to various "hair care" enthusiasts/gurus on YouTube. Since I bought this book, I de subscripted from over 60 "hair care" enthusiasts/gurus on YouTube. Less few months ago, I bought the Ultra Black Hair Growth 2 2000 edition by Cathy Howse. I like her book, but it wasn't technical enough for me. I recommend you buy and read Ultra Black Hair Growth 2 book first (for a basic concept), then the Science of Black Hair book. The days of searching for adequate black hair care information are over, thanks to Mrs. Davis-Sivasothy. Most of the black hair info I got from these women in magazines, Youtube, or the internet; they were either were over the top & extra with their hair care regimen; they used overly expensive hair care products or secretive with their hair care regimen; they promoted (gimmicky) expensive hair care products (that they made or sponsored by the company), want you pay hundreds of dollars per month to join their hair care thread, or just misleading. Mrs. Davis-Sivasothy addressed 95% of my questions. Thank you, Mrs. Davis-Sivasothy. By the way, I haven't tried the methods or products she recommended yet. My other 5% answers I'm currently searching for great (humidity resistant) alternatives to relaxers. Do blow dryers with diffusers doing what they claim, like reducing the chance of frizz in curly hair? (This info don't have anything, nor I expect this information from Mrs. Davis-Sivasothy) THE PROS: She breaks down all the ingredients that you need to know, identify, and look for in hair products. She addressed what to look for in shampoos, conditioners, moisturizers, humectants, proteins, and oils. She breaks down a hair care regimen for everyone and their lifestyles. Whether you a natural, relaxed, texturized, transitioning, colored, or the sew in weave wearer. She covered a hair care regimen for all. She covered a hair care regimen for people who wear cornrows, twists, plaits, braids, locs, and other hair styles. She addressed a hair care regimen for people who exercises, and how to prevent the hair from sweating out if straighten. She addressed a hair care regimen for children and women with gray hair. She mainly focused on the balance of moisture/protein hair care regimen. Both of the moisture hair care regimen and protein regimen is broken down separately. They are listed in their basic of shampoos, conditioners, and moisturizers. You can use either (hair care) regimen depend on your hair porosity. She listed hair friendly gels and other styling products. She addressed protective hair styles. She listed all the product brands that fit every income budget. She addressed what to looked for in combs, hair tools, ceramic flat iron, ponytail holders, towels, and head scarves. She breaks down, how to detangle hair methods. She teaches you, how to stretch a relaxer. She teaches you how to apply a chemical treatment such as relaxer and how to texlax properly. (I find out I was relaxing my hair wrong) She addressed the differences in a salon relaxer and at home relaxer. She breaks down the differences of relaxed, texlaxed, and texturized hair. (Search on Google to see how a texlaxed hair looks like). She addressed a hair care regimen for young children and graying hair. She addressed the rumors regard to mineral oil and petroleum jelly. I LIKED THAT HER BOOK WAS VERY OPEN MINDED & NOT DEGRADING AFRO-TEXTURED HAIR IN ALL NATURAL & CHEMICAL TREATED FORMS. THE CONS: The L.O.I.S's hair typing system wasn't in color. I wish she provided full colored head shots photo examples of each distinctive curl pattern and hair textured types. The "L" and "I " descriptions were confusing. She didn't address "Scab hair" or provide photo examples. She didn't address the claims of color preserving hair care products. Do lace wigs or wigs have negative effect on hair? What are the effects of adhesives or glues that are for lace wigs, wigs, or hair weaves? What is consider normal, coarse, dull, oily, and fine on hair labels? She didn't address the rest of what ingredients to avoid in hair care internet rumors (think propylene glycol). Remember the YouTube's videos or hair articles like, "What 10 ingredients to avoid in hair care?" She didn't address can you color over previous colored hair without damage. All over, I recommend her book, and IT IS A MUST HAVE. I SUGGESTED MY FRIENDS & MY SISTER TO READ IT. IT IS VERY INFORMATIVE. GOOD JOB Mrs. Davis-Sivasothy! You put my journey for searching black hair care to rest. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- (You can skip the part below of the review) This book is the only print media (IMO) demonstrates realistic examples of authentic afro-textured hair and bi-racial textured hair compared to other Medias and magazines. HERE SOME NOTES REGARD TO HAIR TEXTURES FROM ME ON SCIENCE OF BLACK HAIR BOOK If you read the L.O.I.S's hair typing system. Remember the curl pattern size can range from small to extra large. If you are biracial, multiracial, have wavy hair, or curly hair. You might follow under the hair descriptions such as Thready, Spongy, or Silky. If your hair is afro textured hair, you might follow under the hair descriptions such as Wiry or Cottony. Remember each person with Thready, Spongy, or Silky. Hair luster (shine) content varies from non to high shine (think Arjuni's hair weaves). Like a Caucasian woman (like with British, Scottish, or Irish background) with straight, wavy, or curly hair, the hair might not be shiny. Hispanics, Latin, Eastern European descendant, Middle Eastern, Native American, or Asian with straight, wavy, or curly hair; might have hair that either low shine to mid shine or luster. An East Indian with straight hair might have hair that has mid shine to high shine. A mixed (with black) person with wavy or curly hair hair varies from no shine to high shine/luster. Texlaxed and Texturized hair do not look alike. S-Curl perm is a texturizer. Examples of Natural Afro Textured Hair (without hair extensions) pg. 114, pg. 145 in Figure 47, pg. 147 on Figure 49, pg. 148 on Figure 51, pg. 149 on Figure 54, pg. 150 on Figure 56., page 151 on Figure 57, pg. 153, pg. 180 on Figure 65 (Colored locs) Examples of Natural or Transitioning Afro Textured Hair (without Hair Extensions) pg. 155 on Figure 58 and Figure 59. Examples of Salon Relaxed Afro Textured Hair (with hair extensions) pg. 11, and pg. 143 on Figure 46. And pg. 205. Examples of Salon Relaxed Afro Textured Hair (without hair extensions) pg. 148 on Figure 50.and Figure 52. pg. 150 Figure 55. pg. 166 Figure 62. Examples of Flat Ironed (non Chemical Treated) Afro Textured Hair (without hair extensions) pg. 13 Examples of Natural Bi-Racial Textured Hair or Curly Hair (without hair extensions) pg. 49 on Figure 17 and pg. 232 on Figure 75. Examples of Salon Relaxed or Straightened Bi-Racial Textured Hair or Curly Hair (without hair extensions) pg. 194 on Figure 69 and pg. 205 How I know because my mother has curly hair and she relaxes it. Her hair looks similar to this texture when straighten. P.S In black hair care ads, most of the models have natural wavy or curly hair. They are usually biracial, multiracial, Caribbean, or South American heritage. They are usually are photo shop, airbrush, bronze (spray tan), or tan in ads to appear more ethnic looking. Their hair is straightened with flat iron and glossing products are used to enhance shine. Digital enhancement are use to enhance hair shine. This advertisement is common in infomercials, Mizani's ads, Profectiv's ads, and Keracare's ads. On relaxer and other hair care ads they use black models with hair wigs, hair weaves, and partial sew ins. The woman on Creme of Nature's Normal Relaxer box, has a kinky straight lace wig that been ceramic flat ironed. How I know? When you part lace wigs, the part looks way thinner in width compared to a normal part on a real scalp. The hairs on the roots of the scalp hair on lace wigs looks narrow than the real scalp. The part on real scalp is wider than the lace closure part, but real part is narrower than an invisible part. On natural hair ads, most of the women have a texturizer or wearing a wig. On hair care ads aim at curly hair. These are not the women natural hair, but they receive a PROFESSIONAL CURLY PERM OR WIG. In HAIR COLOR AD COMMERCIALS, THEY USE WIGS & DIGITAL ENHANCEMENT TO CHANGE THE COLOR OF THE HAIR. ON TEXTURIZER OR S-CURL ADS, THE MEN HAVE A MIXED RACE likes Trinidadian (who have darker skin or who looks more ethnic). They have natural wavy or curly hair; most of the time those are not texturizers or S-Curls. Here is the marketing game on hair advertisements. I HOPE THIS HELPS! How I know? I had been paying attention to ads since 2006. I'm going to college for merchandising, business, and marketing. I'm currently trying to receive my associate of arts degree.

This is a great book to understand textured hair- relaxed or natural! I had little to no understanding about how to care for my relaxed hair (been relaxing since I was 11, I'm 27 now). This book goes over what are good products to use, how to look for key ingredients when buying new products, understanding the textured hair structure and so much more that I can't even list. There is also a section on how to transition from relaxed to natural and also a section on caring for relaxed hair. This is the section I found most useful. I had no idea that there was a difference between conditioners (protein/Deep conditioning) and when to use it on relaxed hair. I also was one of the ones that believed that oil moisturized my hair. Because of this book and many black hair forums, I've grown to know this is not true. The section on moisturizing and sealing has changed my hair and I've only been doing it for the past couple of weeks. Prior to moisturizing and sealing, the ends of my hair were recently snapping off and I did not understand why. Then I read the moisturizing and sealing section. After reading the author's recommended products, I bought the Neutrogena Triple Moisture Leave-In Cream, shampoo and conditioner, Coconut oil and Hollywood B. Olive Oil. I still moisturize and have started massaging my scalp with tea tree/olive oil, but not as much as I used to. I do believe with the massaging/light oil combo in my scalp, I've noticed new growth! Plus a good head massage is also an added bonus. This book has helped me realized to achieve healthy black hair; it takes time, patience and necessary dedication. You can't expect your hair to be nice to you, if you're not moisturizing it properly and taking care of it. A rule that I've just learned! The minor negative note I have is that I did notice two typos (but not a big deal because I understood what the author meant). Also in the product recommendation section, for example, I noticed that the Neutrogena Triple Moist. Mask is noted as a protein treatment and as a moisturizing conditioner. But on relaxed hair, can you use this product weekly? Reading the book, it says to only use a protein treatment a couple of days after the relaxer. So things like this, you have to be careful, read and pick your products accordingly. But beside these two "negative" notes, I loved the book and I'm still using it as a reference prior to doing my hair. Definitely a must to have!

This book was more of a confirmation of what I had already learned from the internet and my own personal research. However, it gave me the scientific explanations behind that information and thus a deeper understanding. It's one thing to know what ingredients to avoid but it's better to know why and exactly how your hair is affected by them. Of course I also learned new information because I don't know everything. I didn't have a problem with the black and white photos at first, but it did get annoying when the captions referred you to the 'blue dots' or the 'yellow area' and what they represented. I found every chapter interesting! Even if you have natural hair, the section on relaxed hair was very enlightening. It helped me to understand why my hair didn't flourished when it was relaxed and so it answered a lot of the questions I had. I don't have colored treated hair either, but this section gave me important information that I could use in case I want to color my hair in the future. The author has a comprehensive knowledge about the structure of hair and explains it well, in a way that is understandable for the reader. I thoroughly enjoyed the book and the text book format didn't make it boring for me. There are also interviews in the book which help to vary the pace of your reading, so it didn't drag on. The only slight criticism is that some of the products listed in the regiment building section contain ingredients that are not natural; such as silicones, mineral oil and petroleum (e.g. Hollywood Beauty Carrot Oil Moisturizer). So always research the ingredients of the products listed, don't just purchase it because it is listed in the book. I am glad I have this book in my collection and it is formatted in a way that makes it convenient to use as a reference book for the future.

I am new to the hair care world and have only been on my "healthy hair journey" for the past 3 months or so. In that time, I have scoured the forums, you tube, and hair blogs/websites in search of the best methods to care for my hair and reach new lengths. This book has been essential to my journey! It breaks down everything you need to know and more importantly, explains why you should do certain things with you hair. Much of the information contained in the book I have learned in my internet travels, but the book expanded on certain points, educated me on the reasons for doing certain things (and not doing other things), and helped to organize all of the information that's out there so that I can use it. I will admit that when I first started my HHJ, I often felt overwhelmed with all the information that's out there. However, this book helped me to make sense of things. The best things about the book are: -The lists of types of products you will need to care for your hair. Yes, it seems a bit ridiculous at first to need at least 3 different shampoos. But each of the shampoos do different key things. When you read the book, you understand why you need 3 shampoos and up to 3 different protein conditioners plus at least 1 moisturizing deep conditioner. I will say that I don't feel the list is exhaustive in terms of specific products, but its a good starting point. It's also refreshing that she doesn't cater to one specific line of products and even includes so called "white" products on the list. -Information on self-relaxing is awesome! I will even venture to say that you should not self- relax or allow someone else to relax your hair without having read this book. Honestly, this book has made me question the methods of so called "stylists" who have done may hair in the past. I not only feel more confident with caring for my hair, but distrustful of allowing others to handle my hair. This, to me, is how it should be. -I am currently 10 months into my hair stretch, so the information on reducing manipulation while shampooing/conditioning and detangling is literally a life saver. Or should I say, hair saver! This book is not without faults. I gave it 5 stars because, honestly, no other book does what this book does! In future editions, maybe some of my concerns will be addressed. -Really, this book should have included a chapter for natural hair alone. I can see why naturals may have a difficult time gleaning relevant information from this book. Naturals have different hair needs, including less protein (unless they are heat training), which I don't feel was adequately explained in this book. -Which brings me to my next point, this book seriously lacked information on heat training hair. In fact, it does lean towards a minimal heat orientation (which makes sense if you are relaxed). However, I know of and have watched you tube videos on naturals who have successfully grown their hair while heat training. Probably because heat training eliminates much breakage due to tangles that naturals face. But without compromising hair with chemicals as in relaxers, hair is able to withstand much more heat. Information on successfully heat training hair would make this book more comprehensive. -Because I am more into a natural way of doing things, it would have been nice to see a chapter on creating your own hair products where possible. I am not an "all natural all the time" type of person, but it would be nice to incorporate some natural self made products where possible. - Again, I feel the list of products could have listed more products, especially for heavy protein treatments and hair friendly gellies. -The Neutrogena triple moisture hair mask was listed as both a light protein and a moisturizing deep conditioner. Since I use this product faithfully (I always used it as a moisturizing deep conditioner and supplemented protein using Aphogee 2 minute reconstructor), I did a little research by looking up every ingredient in the conditioner. None could be considered protein. Overall, if you're serious about black hair care, whether relaxed, natural, or heat trained, this is definitely the book for you. If you are fully natural or heat trained you may need to add other sources to your repertoire in addition to this book, but this is definitely a good starting place because when it comes down to it, our hair is all similar and has the same basic needs. Word to the wise, the AMAZON edition of this book does not include color photos, which may have enhanced my overall reading/learning experience as it features pictures of the hair cuticle and the scalp that you really need to see in color.

I recommend every sister that struggles with their hair get this book! It has given me so much knowledge about our hair and has helped with me and my daughter's hair so much. Audrey gives essential information that teaches how our hair works, then offers detailed instructions on how to care for it. She also has product recommendations and shows you how to shop for your own hair products. I've read quite a few hair books and none have come close to the information provided in this book not to mention when I was in high school (many yrs ago) I studied cosmetology and still didnt learn as much as I did about "our hair" that i did from this book, mostly because the courses were focused on caucasian hair - every mannequin had caucasian hair, every book referred to caucasian hair with exception of a short lesson on "curly" hair but nothing remotely close to a in depth education of coily kinky african american hair. Again that was in the 90's, so I'm sure nowadays there are cosmetology schools that emphasize more on all hair types BUT the average sister shouldnt need cosmetology school to be able to understand and maintain her hair. This book gives you the knowledge and understanding you need to have healthy hair and correct years of damage we've done by simply not knowing. If you're not sure if this is the book for you, check out her website for this book (google it). After checking out her website I realized this book would offer a wealth of information, AND IT DOES! Read it a few times and keep going back to it - as I realize the more I go back to the book I have new revelations. I've had the book for a few months and I have stopped the breakage, my hair is healthy, shiny and growing!

This is a great book. I have learned so much about my hair and the products that I have been using and things that I have been doing to my hair that are not good for it. For one, the Oil Moisturizer that I have been using since fifteen is not a moisturizer at all. I used to put this stuff on my hair religiously every day to keep my hair from drying out and, yet, all it did was dry out. I have learned about ingredients that work for black people's textured hair and ingredients that work against our hair. I have learned about products that a better for my thin, fine hair versus someone who has more coarse hair. Now, I understand why some of those products broke my hair off badly in the past. Also, when I pick up a bottle of shampoo and that second ingredient is Sodium Laureth Sulfate, I run for the hills!!! I have NEVER had a hair stylist provide any of this information to me. But, this book offers a lot more than just good product knowledge. The scientific information that she starts off with in the first few chapters is invaluable. There is a wealth of information on how black hair grows differently, determining your zone breakage, regimen building, proper combing techniques and on and on and on. I am now on the hunt for high quality, seamless combs which are kind of hard to come by. There is really just too much information for me to put in this review. In summary, this is a great guide for black hair care. You do not have to search YouTube and listen to 50 different people's opinions and you don't have to search hair care forums and read 101 different threads to try to figure out what you need to do to improve your hair's health and length. It is all in this one comprehensive guide.

This book was so popular in my area that I couldn't find it in Barnes & Nobles to purchase. So I purchased it from Amazon (which was even better because it was less expensive). Delivery was fast -- I received the book in a little less than a week. Ms. Davis-Sivasothy also added a personal touch by placing a "thank you" note on the inside cover of the book. I thought that really should her own enthusiasm about her book--how could I not read it after that? Every night, for one week, I soaked all of the words in this book (except the chapter on caring for relaxed ends since my hair is natural). I think for any naturalista, like myself, it would be worthwhile to have this book in your personal (hair) library. This book has become my hair bible! Its useful knowledge has helped me understand what my hair needs at the moment and what I need to do to ensure my hair's good health. Here's an interesting side note: This book is classified as a textbook but don't be afraid to read it. I purchased the paperback and it really was not as heavy and intense as textbooks can be. It's important to not only know what to do with our Black hair--especially since, for years, we've struggled with caring for our natural hair and have been shamed into believing that we are flawed to have such texturized locks. It's equally as important to understand the science behind our hair. Ms. Davis tells us how we can get how does pH levels affect our hair. Clearly, I am very pleased with this book! I also believe this book is indeed one that every black woman who is committed to having a healthy (and loving) relationship with her hair should read. Get educated and Love your hair!