Schaeffer Manufacturing Co. 0132-023S Moly EP Oil Treatment, 1-Pint Bottle

I don't write reviews but this is an exception. I have a small homestead with several old tractors, an excavator and a mower, all diesels. All of the engines in my equipment were basically worn out when I purchased them. I decided to give the Schaeffer moly a try many years ago when I first changed the engine oil in all of my diesels. I was impressed immediately with how quiet each engine became after adding the moly. Zero tapping and rattling from each engine now as well as a noticeable increase in power and throttle response. I've also noticed each engine runs a bit cooler with the moly and smoke emissions are almost completely gone. After 7 years of using this product in all of my diesel engines I am thoroughly convinced that it does exactly what Schaeffer says it does.If you're looking for a product to help make your small engines last or years this is it. Many of the older farmers where I live have begun using this Moly EP in their tractors now that they've seen what it's done for my old, worn out equipment. This stuff is legit and I hope it stays on the market for years to come.

Works great as an engine assembly lube. I put it on the cam and it was still visible clinging onto the cam the next day after sitting overnight. Extremely thick and another great product by Schaeffers

Works extremely well in our old Ford.

I drive a 2001 Durango SLT 4x4 that was purchased in 2003 as 'Certified Pre-Owned' off of a lease. All dealership interval services up to 120,000. Current mileage is apx. 185,000The oil has been changed over the past 13 years every 3,000 miles that may have been "pushed" to 5k two or three times.Normally ran Castrol GTX 10W-30 and always changed the oil filter (Purolator PureOne) with each oil change.I usually burn top tier gas and add either Lucas fuel treatment or Restore Ethanol treatment because Ethanol based fuels are inefficient, dirty and prone to slime and sludge build up.This product says 1 Pint per 5 quarts per oil and my SUV holds 6 quarts. I'd just recently changed the oil (Mobil One) and since the engine leaks and.or burns such a negligible amount, I've never had to add a drop of oil between changes. Not knowing how much room the "safe" zone on the dipstick allowed, I added only more than half a pint of Molly EP.My wife used the vehicle but it was two days following before I did, and noticed the following immediately: First, the engine just runs noticeably quieter. Having driven this vehicle for the past 12+ years, this is no "placebo effect". I know exactly how that engine sounds-rather-sounded. It didn't have any particular noise to contend with, like a noisy lifter, it just noticeably ran quieter and smoother. Same sound, just less of it.Next, the trend on my oil gauge is very distinctly oriented towards the "more pressure" side of the gauge. I've seen it return to more historical areas on the gauge, but there is no mistaking the strong trend to better oil pressure overall.This is with only partial application. Again, directions say 1 Pint (16 oz) for 5 quarts. I added perhaps 12 oz, when 6 quarts call for just over 19 oz. I am going to adjust the oil level as (or if) necessary to add the remaining recommended portion of Moly EP.There are a lot of snake oils out there, and from some (many,actually) very well known and "reputable" companies that will sell customers anything from essentially inert goo, to crap that is actually more likely to be detrimental than help any engine function or performance issues.A minor example. Mobile One? Not a true synthetic because it is not a full synthetic. It is still a very good oil overall for the price I can get it at, but they use mineral carriers and that will always be a weak link in any such blending. Manufactured molecules are all the same size. Organics never are.Think: what will roll better? Ball bearing all of one size, or of all different sizes? If you want a true synthetic, you will probably have to look at Europe, though i am still researching that and there is a ton of marketing hype and misleading statements used to make it not so easy to discern.Moly is based on real science, not marketing teams. Ceramic technology also looks like a real, science based winner. All one needs then is a quality source of it and of course at the best price possible.I almost bought some Moly made in Germany, as I think they are some of the best engineers on the planet but was glad to find an American company known for its excellence.It's too soon to see if gas milage was improved at all (MPGs were never a strong suit for Durango's),as obviously, any bump would be great. I'll post back if there is any appreciable increase, but this is about practical steps to increase engine life by less wear and tear and eliminating "cold starts". .***latest change will try Liqui Moly MOS2 oil treatment, which is currently (slightly) less expensive and yet is listed to treat 6 quarts per can as opposed to only 5 quarts of oil that Moly E.P. treats.

It helps to prolong the quality of the oil and consequently the life of the engine. When I changed the oil the last time it didn't look so burned thanks to this product, it shows that it helped the engine a lot.

After following following several on line sources, I decided to try it. Not disappointed. This is a great addition to any high quality oil. Keep in mind adding to a lesser made oil will not give you the best bang for the buck. This product has shown to help with the "Hemi Tick" . It will not cure any lingering mechanical issues but it is a cheap bit of insurance.

I have a 2008 VW Passat 3.6 VR6 with over 125K miles. Usually after an oil change with either the Euro VW spec 0W-40 or 5W-40, doesn't matter what brand, I won't have the ticking valvetrain noise until after a thousand miles or so, then I will start hearing a ticking or tapping noise gradually getting worse as if the lubricity and/or viscosity properties of the oil is going away. Well, I added only half of this pint of this Schaeffer Moly EP Oil Treatment with the used oil of about 1,500 miles, and the ticking noise has virtually gone away. Because this additive is so thick, I only added half of this bottle, but it was just enough to quiet down the noise. Amazing.

I have a 350 MAG Mercrusier engine, which is a marinized GM Vortec 5.7 V8. Boats need their oil changed very often because they are run at constant high RPM over hours, unlike a car which hardly ever sits pinned at high RPM for extended periods of time. Not to mention the force of water against a boat is nothing like the air of a car. To say the least, boat engines get a workout.When I first got the new to me boat I sent my oil out for used analysis and it came back awful, the comments were quite alarming from the firm. This was at 150 hours of use on the engine.I changed the oil but was puzzled why I would only get 2 quarts out using my dipstick fluid pump (can't drain oil on a boat in the water!). Bottom line was my oil changes were incomplete. My low oil pressure alarm would go off after coming off plane due to the oil being thinned out. Changing the oil (2 quarts) did not fix it. I then added this additive and no more alarm, and 200 hours later I finally found out my oil extractor was faulty and switched to a in sump suction type and got a full 5 quarts out.If I had not put this additive in during my low oil alarm days I suspect my rings would have been worn away before I could figure out my oil changes were very incomplete. Motor has been perfect and now I always add a quart of this every change, its insurance for a new motor.