Reciprocating Saw Blades for Drywall (2-Pack)

Got this blade to cut some drywall on my Sawzall. Works better than I thought it would have. This saved me a ton of money because I didn't want to get a drywall cutout tool for a really small DIY job.Will it work better than a drywall cutout tool? Probably not, but for value it's good in a pinch.A note too is the blade is not really sharp and it's more relying on just the motion of the saw to cut through the drywall.

Fits most reciprocating saw including my DeWalt. Certainly not a very clean cuts, on the backing, but moves quickly and saves the worry of cutting wires or pipes. Produces a fair amount of powder but not as much as I expected. Hitting a metal protector on a stud will make it bounce so he careful. Used it to open walls and ceiling for water pipe repair. Glad I had it to speed up the process.

This is one of the best drywall cutting blades. Safe to use because of the exact depth.

works with my Milwaukee M18 handheld recip saw. the blade is more stout than the actual Milwaukee stubby drywall cutter. has plenty of depth to make it through general all drywall and tough enough to plunge through drywall before the cut and rips right through the wall without issue. great buy, dont hesitate to buy this blade. I use this primarily to cut for running wire during TV wire hide installs

Excellent idea. but too short for Milwaukee Fuel reciprocating saw. Only goes 1/4 inch into drywall. I will use concept to make my own blade.

I bought this to cut existing drywall on an exterior wall without harming the insulation and vapor barrier so I could install conduit and plumbing. The cuts were at eye level, which made it hard to see around the saws-all plate to start the cut on the scribed line. The stubby blade has no teeth on the tip, which makes it take longer to start the cut through the drywall, and it bounced around damaging the adjacent drywall until it started the cut. Then it was hard to see well enough to keep the cut on the scribed line. When the cut came to a stud, the blade bounced out of the cut again and mangled the surrounding drywall some more. I ended up using my utility knife instead. It was only a little more work, and I got better results. Ultimately, I had to remove the insulation to install the conduit anyway. Finally, compared to normal saws-all blades, these blades are unreasonably expensive. The money for the replacement utility knife blades was better spent, and a hand-powered drywall saw is less expensive and more controllable too.

I purchased these blades for use in Hurricane Irma Disaster Relief in Florida. I gave them to multiple teams for evaluation. The blades lasted through several tear-outs and were still in good shape. We had been using oscillating tools for this purpose but the oscillating blades are expensive and don't last more than a couple of walls. Reports were that this blade was much better about dust, a plus when dealing with moldy walls. Major complaint was not being able to see the blade, we determined that it might be best to make a chalk line about 1.5 inches from the desired cut line and align the reciprocating saw shoe to the chalk line for best tracking (offset guide line) This blade is definitely the way to go for most tear-outs. Can't get completely in the corners but that could be handled with an oscillating tool. In the case of stipled ceilings, cutting the wall board about two inches down from the wall/ceiling joint would allow mudding of the new joint without destroying and having to redo the stipling.

Not carried at Lowe's or Home Depot stores. A dream come true for use in recent Disaster Recovery Deployments to Louisiana and North Carolina. Makes quick work of cutting drywall at the 4 foot high level - mold mitigation. Allows for drywall removal in sheets so that studs can be exposed. Performed work in almost 20 houses over deployments. Much easier than any other kind of device (long blade Sawsall, Multitool, circular saw, or box cutter knife)