PorttaComponent to HDMI Converter, YPbPr RGB + R/L Audio to HDMI v1.3 Converter Adapter Support 1080P 2 Channel LPCM for HDTV PS2 PS3 HDVD Player Wii Xbox

I tried this to see if it would work on my ps2 phat model 35001 well it didn’t. Like 2 other adapters and uploader it didn’t work but on my ps2 slim it did work. I tried on 5 TVs and couldn’t get it to work with my phat ps2. Just that model but the ps2 slim great picture and sound. Easy to install.

It works well. I have a Wii and a 60’ TV. with no component in. I tried connecting it via composite but the quality was bad. Once I used this adapter I got much better quality out of my Wii. Definitely exactly what I needed. No lag, accurate colors, and the Wii finally looks good on a modern tv. Much better than the wii2hdmi devices.

As at least one other reviewer has mentioned, the thing is tiny. It can easily fit in the palm of your hand. If you aren't able to tell from the photos, the device is powered off a wall plug that ends in a mini-USB adapter; this means any generic mini-USB cord should work with it. It takes so little power that a laptop USB port can handle it. It gets a little warm, but I wouldn't call it hot, if plugged in for a while. The temperature may simply be coming from the little blue power light inside it that is on when the device is on.I was able to successfully run my PS2 slim console (composite cables) through it and into my television. I'm not able to compare what it would look like with the TV doing the up-scaling, but the device does a pretty good job translating the signals to HDMI. My only complaint on the picture is that it's a little flickery in some places at certain times. Otherwise, the Playstation 2 looks just fine on the TV and the sound was fine as well.My screen flashed green briefly as it started up, but then colors normalized. The converter doesn't shut down if it isn't getting a signal from your game system or whatever. It will show a message of "no signal" on your TV, but it's different one than if the TV is not getting a signal from the converter. You may want to power the thing off a USB port on your TV (if you have one), a power strip that turns off when you turn off the TV, or simply a power strip with a switch you can flip when done using it.I have some potential concerns about longevity. It seems like you can change between 1080p and 720p while the device is plugged in and it'll reboot itself, but I had some glitches when I switched to 720p. In fact, the TV failed to get a signal at times with that setting, though flipping the switch and turning it and the TV on/off got it working again. It may be that the TV had problems simply because it's not its native resolution or it's possible there's some minor short that may cause problems at some point down the road. I had no problems at 1080p.I'll update my review if it dies quickly or anything, but having only used it for a brief amount of time it's performing just as promised and far better than I would have expected from a no name piece of Chinese gear. I'm quite happy with the device thus far. On my GameCube the upscale makes the image somewhat softer than that built in to our LG 42LM3400 42" 1080p 60Hz LED 3D HDTV composite inputs, though I actually like the TV upscale better. Just FYI, as of this review many LG models have combination composite/component inputs so you can use one or the other; for some reason even their website lists them as having only component inputs. If you go with LG look closely at reviews or try to get a picture of the back of the TV; you may not actually need to get one of these units.One last thing, if you're trying to decide on this thing and you look at other reviews, some of the low ratings are due to having the wrong unit shipped to people. I can fully understand irritation at that, but it's something of an unfair knock against the device itself. As of this review, at least one person had very recently received the wrong converter. If possible, I'd suggest a fulfilled by Amazon seller to be on the safe side if you need to return. Amazon is the best.

This little gem does exactly what I wanted at a fantastic price! It duplicates my office PC's primary desktop onto a 40" Samsung LED HTDV that I can easily view, along with clients, that are visiting my office. However . . . I had almost given up on this device due to a setting associated with the video card on my PC. I want to share what I found with others in case they might run into the same or a similar issue.When I first connected the Porta Splitter between my one year old HP PC running Windows 7 Pro and my primary 27" HP LED monitor, my excitement turned to immediate disappointment when the first image to appear didn't fill the screen! There was a blank, black "picture frame" around all four sides of the content. Even worse, the text was visibly distorted. Not good! When I then connected the second Porta output to my 40" Samsung HDTV, that looked just fine.In an effort to get the display on the HP 27" monitor to fill the screen (a must!) I tried disconnected/reconnected everything; I swapped HDMI cables and I also power cycled everything and rebooted the PC. Nothing had any effect. I also tried playing with some of the HP's monitor settings, including an overscan option. That had some some effect but didn't cure the problem. I was so disappointed as thought I would have to return the Porta Splitter and try something else or give up on what I was trying to do.But then . . . I tried one more thing. I opened the control panel for the AMD Radeon graphics card in my PC and began to explore its settings for the my two monitors (the Porta device and a second monitor). The software was seeing the Porta device (reported as CP9287) rather than the HP monitor it was seeing before. No surprise.However, lo and behold, I found a "Scaling Options" slider setting for the Porta device that had been "magically" set to underscan that output by a percentage. Well that's not what I want! As I stepped the control back to 0%, two things happened: The display on the HP 27" monitor expanded, in steps, to fill the screen while the 40" Samsung HDTV image began to overscan, also in steps. It was then apparent that, even though both the HP monitor and the Samsung HDTV report a native resolution of 1920 x 1080, I apparently can only choose one of the two to fill its respective screen at any given time. The other screen will be either over-scanned or under-scanned.With this setting found, I can now do exactly what I want: Fill my primary HP 27" monitor with a full, undistorted display which is then duplicated (other than with a bit of overscan) on the Samsung 40" HDTV. That overscan is no issue for my intended use. Of course, should I choose to, at any time I could adjust the underscan/overscan so that my primary desktop would fully fill the Samsung HDTV screen. That might be what others would prefer to do.So, with that challenge overcome, the Porta Splitter is doing exactly what I want at an amazing price! I'm very pleased.September 2015 Followup:All was well until I upgraded my three year old PC from Windows 7 Pro to Windows 10 Pro. Windows "best fit" set of drivers for the combination of the video card in the PC, the Porta device and the two connected monitors created an issue. The primary desktop screen that I relied on that was connected through the Porta device was now "underscanning", while the 42" secondary HDTV was now filling the screen when it had been "overscanning" previously. This was the opposite of what I had and needed for my application. There were not setting changes that I could find to correct this. To resolve the issue, I had to replace the video card with a newer, more current card, that was still compatible with my three year old PC (only $34 from NewEgg). That resolved the issue and I'm back to being able to use the Porta splitter.