Switchcraft 3-Way Right Angle "L-Type" Toggle Switch w/ Genuine White Switchcraft Tip

I used this for an atypical application. I have a cheap bass guitar that I had reason to rewire. It had an extra hole in the face, that had been used to control a miserable bass booster device that I removed, so I needed to use something else to fill the extra hole. Even though you never see them on basses, I decided to give it a try putting the 3-way selector switch on the bass to fill that hole.It is a rugged component. It is far easier to solder in place than some of the four and five position slider switches, but it is limited in terms of offering only the three options, and of course you have to use it in an instrument where it fits. As good as it appears to be, you can't and wouldn't want to put it in a Strat or a Tele, for example. Of course, it didn't belong on this instrument, but there was room for it and I wanted to try it out, again, to fill the extra hole in the body of the bass, with some curiosity as to how pickup selection would affect a bass.As it was, I did have to drill the hole larger for this switch to fit, and I did it by drilling gradually larger holes until I got to the size I needed. As I recall, for anyone who might care to know, it was 9/16". I don't recall getting information in that regard. Perhaps they presume people are always using it as a replacement in an instrument that has been bored appropriately for it already.That reminds me of another potential problem if you decide to try it out somewhere that wasn't designed for it, like I did. It is bulky for a switch, so you need to make sure it will fit and that you can aim it in a direction that makes sense to you (in terms of how the direction of the switch stem relates to the pickup to be selected).There is one tricky point in the soldering. There are two terminals meant to go to lead, side by side, on the same end of the switch as the leads to both pickups and the lead to ground. That is, there are five terminals that need to be connected to at just one end of the switch. It is pretty bunched up together, and when the switch is turned up in soldering position, these two lead terminals are pretty well buried under the rest, so I really thought through how best to deal with it before I started soldering.One issue is that there is no reason for them to be separate since they are conducted to the same place, so I pinched them together, side by side, and soldered them together before I soldered the wire to lead on (in my project, the combined lead went to the tone pot and from there to the jack tip, but I imagine that can vary depending on the project). That worked well.The other issue was that I then soldered the wire going to to the tone pot (or whatever load is) to that paired terminal before it was buried by any of the connections to the three leads above it. It all worked out great to do it that way, in that order.I won't go into detail, but it is interesting and worthwhile to play with the switch for a while and see how it works.I can't yet say how it worked on this instrument in terms of the sound, because I decided to change the tuning machines, which I haven't received yet, so I can't string it. I did use my multi-meter, though, to test all connections with the switch in each of its three positions, and it did exactly what it was supposed to do.I have to laugh at myself for deciding to do this. I keep saying I will learn why no one ever puts pickup selector switches on basses, but it should be interesting (I have half a suspicion that with a big old bass, you can't afford to lose the power coming from either pickup, by selecting just one, but maybe I'll be lucky and get some fun out of it).

good part but doesn't fit my project.

works great