3M Professional Grade Rubberized Undercoating, Corrosion, Water and Salt Spray Resistant, 16 oz., Protects Undercarriage of Cars, Trucks and RVs from Rust and Abrasion, Help Reduce Road Noise (03584)

Sticks very well and sprays straight.

highly recommend for undercoating fender wells and car frames

I know this is supposed to be UNDERcoating, but I used it OVER instead. I wanted rubber texture for various hand tools, yet did not want to spend $60-$100 for a good set of cushion gripped screwdrivers and such.So I set out to find a way to apply decent grip to a tool without ruining it or adding excessive bulk, like with some grip tapes. My first test piece was a wooden handle to a sink plunger that was collecting dust. To judge the adhesion quality, I did not roughen or prep the surface in any way besides wiping with a wet cloth to remove the dust. I carefully sprayed a small amount on opposing sides of a 6 inch end-section of the handle, spreading it with a small paint brush. After I was satisfied with the applied thickness, I began to stipple the surface with the tip of the brush for texture. After 24 hours of set time I tested the surface for results, and was happy with the results. The texture provided good traction without noticeable bulk, as the coat was barely thick enough to hide the wood handle color. I then began to twist the grip in my hand with light-firm grip pressure, trying to rub off the surface, and had very little specs of texture come loose. I accounted for stippling surface rise, lack of surface prep and amount applied, and felt the makeshift grip was more than adequate.Next, my guinea-pig-screwdrivers: A USA made Craftsman set I got on Black Friday a few years back, which were very cheap so I would not curse the sky if I were to ruin them. The handles have parallel panels, all of which are smooth plastic. I lightly roughened every other panel with sandpaper, cleaned off the dust and applied the same way. I varied the design on 3 different screwdrivers for fun, yet they all work just the same. They are still holding the grip after MUCH use, from automotive to normal building construction use. I plan on doing a few more when I can get in the garage.Note: Take precaution for over-spray because this stuff can be messy. Also, when sprayed at close proximity it tends to bubble on the applied surface. Lastly, I do like this product for more stationary grips, but don't believe it will hold long on something equal to a baseball bat grip. If somebody tries that, please let me know how it turns out on that kind of aggressive surface.

Overall i like this product alot. It wasn't difficult to use, it works well for its designed purpose and is not that expensive. Definitely cheaper than having an undercoat done. I used it on my Jeep Cherokee on the door bottoms to prevent rust that had just started on it that is typical for Cherokees, as well as the fender flares and part of my hatch i did a design on to prevent rust below the window but a black strip would look odd (for reference a 1/16 inch thick coat took 5 cans). What this product is basically is an aerosolized, hardening, tar (meaning like road tar/asphalt). The advantage of this is that it is nearly impossible for it to chip so once applied water will never get in between the coating and rust out the steel. A disadvantage of this compared to say Rhino Liner (a ultra tough hard plastic like coating which I am aware isn't considered an undercoating) is that with enough force a jagged object can scrape it off. However refinish of a scraped off area or scratch line would be a very easy repair with simply another spraying or spraying some in a cup and dabbing it on. So when you purchase this think of it as a midpoint between Rhino Liner and Plasti-Dip (a latex like coating that can be applied and easily peeled off). As far as aesthetics go I really like the look of it, if you spray closer it smoothes out more to a molded plastic like look or if you spray further away from your surface it looks more like a powder coat/bedcoat. However if scraped it exposes that it's not truly black but a very dark brown. Also before spraying on the surface of your project I recommend practicing on a piece of plastic or cardboard, once you get it down its not difficult to apply however if you go to slow you'll get blobs that will not dry properly and look bad. As far as drying time goes between each coat it needs at least a half hour to tack on, then after a few hours it will seem hard to the touch but it's not. At this point it can be touched with your fingers and nothing will happen but if you use your nail some may scrape off. Only after 2-5 days depending on temperature, humidity, and air movement will it achieve its full hardness. That's as much as I can learn anyone about this. Hopefully this helps future buyers of this well made product.

These 3M Products are hard to beat. This Undercoating is one of those products. I did my wheel wells with 2 cans of this on my small car. I would recommend one can per wheel well and a large piece of cardboard to place on your garage floor. I also wrapped my Struts and Brakes Calipers in a large plastic bag with zip ties. Now for yourself, be sure to wear disposable clothes. I really got in there so I wore a shower cap and old jeans and long sleeve shirt. MY only trouble was I didn't wear any gloves. Wear a pair of throw away gloves!! I thought Lacquer Thinner would take this stuff off, NOPE! Luckily paint thinner really helped in the cleanup. There is nothing I could find on the can for cleanup. Keep this stuff out of your hair and face too. Last word: Wear gloves and have paint thinner available!!